Model 1903, 32 Long HE Target Model

[Casual Smith Nut]

OPOEFC,

How do you figure that it was made Nov 25th? Not doubting your info. This is why I appreciate this forum so much since there are so many knowledgeable folks here with wealth of info. I am curious how you could know the actual date short of getting the gun lettered to Smith Wesson.

The black hard rubber grips do have some slight warping/stretching at the top to where they don't close on the frame entirely leaving a small gap in top rear seam between both grips. I don't want to crank down too hard since they're probably brittle. That's good advice to track down some other grips for most of the shooting once I've tried out the original grips.

Wow production in few hundred range is pretty scarce if that's the case. I'm interested to know if anyone else agrees for production numbers who has knowledge on the subject.

Thanks all for this info and discussion so far. It has helped tremendously and definitely adds to my appreciation of this old fine revolver and the craftsmanship. The fitting on this thing is amazing.

 

[mrcvs]

Opoefc has the foreman's logs which detail the exact day of production for certain models. Here's one also in the 105xx range that was manufactured 15 November 1903, only 10 days prior to yours.

 

[Llance]

MOP grips, beautifull engraving, nickle plating, sized to a ladies hand, what's not to like.

 

[ol777gunnerz]

info

That is a dandy revolver for sure, the target hard black rubber grips are worth a pretty penny these days, nice find.

 

[Grayfox]

That's a great find! I like it.
How come I never get that lucky?

 

[handejector]

Wow production in few hundred range is pretty scarce if that's the case. I'm interested to know if anyone else agrees for production numbers who has knowledge on the subject.

We have knowledge on the subject. You're talking to the most dedicated observers of S&W on earth here.
Estimate, guesstimates, and wild*** guesses is all you're gonna get. We don't know. Ed has production logs, but they don't even specify Target guns, so how can we give you a figure? We can only make estimates based on our observations. I've owned 3 or 4 in 50+ years of fooling with S&Ws. I've seen a couple of dozen more on the net and in the flesh.
When the Regulation Police came out in 1917, the Factory said Target sights and grips would only be furnished on the RP and not the 32 HE.
Demand was not high for them. People bought 22 and 38 Target guns. Target ammo was much more readily available for those calibers. The 32 HE Targets don't have a lot going for them as competition guns. They are light and petite. The recoil of a 38 WC is not that much more in a K frame gun than a light load in this light gun. They filled a demand hole that just wasn't very large.
So, 32 HE targets are rare. Yes, I can see the wear on your gun. If it was high condition, I would have priced it much higher.

 

[Casual Smith Nut]

That's impressive someone has the logs which can help with the dates. Yes I am reminded that the folks are in the forum are the greatest resource for wisdom and knowledge on all things Smith Wesson.

I definitely trust your expertise Handejector more than mine. Most everything that I have learned thus far has come from this forum over past several years reading threads long before I became a member.

Thanks for all the kind observations and input everyone. It definitely adds to the value in that I can appreciate the revolver more for my own enjoyment and sharing it with other enthusiasts. That's what it's all about and makes the range time even better. I'll try to remember to post a follow up on how it shoots when I can find a day to go to the range. Last night I loaded up 50 rds with 2 grs bullseye and 50 rds 2.2 gr bullseye under my cast Lee 93 gr semi wadcutters. We'll see how they do.

 

[47knuckle]

I have two of the I-frame 32 targets models. My regulation police target has sufficient rear sight adjustment to use 98 grain hbwc's and reasonable amounts of HP-38 or 231. My 32 HE shoots these loads 6" to 8" high at 25 yds with the rear sight bottomed out. I was warned of this potential problem by forum member DC Wilson, so apparently not confined just to my revolver.

But despair not, just buy some 78 grain cast RN made for the 32 auto and load 2.8-3.0 231 and you're back on target.

Definitely a nice gun, I'm sure you will enjoy it

 

[Green Frog]

When I was in my "I frame buying phase" it seemed like the RP Target 32 was the cream of the crop. I saw many, many I frame 32s in various barrel lengths and both RP and HE (round butt) configurations, but I was able to acquire only 1 RP Target 32. It is much later than yours, probably 1920s vintage, and a bit nicer condition, but I would think the early date and old target grips on yours would raise the price of your find nicely.

I like to shoot my I frame 32s with 95-105 grain LSWCs and mild loads of Bullseye or 231. Note the word "mild"! At their ages of at least 60 and up to 115 years or so, they really don't need to be hot rodded!

I hope you will enjoy your latest find as much as I have mine.
Froggie

 

[Casual Smith Nut]

47Knuckle, we'll see how it likes 93gr lead. That front sight with the bead is pretty tall so I'm hoping not to bottom out the rear sight.

Froggie, I definitely won't be hot rodding this old I-frame. If the cylinder was heat treated I'd have no problems with my usual 2.5gr bullseye load. I have another 1920s model 4 inch I-frame hand ejector and an early to mid 1950s hand ejector 3 inch which shoots POA with that load. So, I'll have to be careful not to let the wrong loads slip in to the older gun. I'm sure one wouldn't hurt it but don't want to take that chance.

Thanks

 

[teletech]

Heinz,
Nope I roll my own so no problem with availability. My usual load for 93gr lswc is 2.5gr of bullseye. For this old gal it'll be closer to 2gr bullseye.

I run a 90SWC in front of 2.5 of B/E and thus far even the older I-frames have not complained. My sense in reading the reloading books are they are pretty well set for lowest-common denominator.
The other thing I've found to work well is a 90RNFP pushed by 3.7 of Unique.
Still tend to run almost 4" at 25yds, but that's for a non-target gun so the sights are a big factor I'm sure.

 

[Casual Smith Nut]

Anyone else have a 32 hand ejector target prior to the Regulation Police models from among the forum members? It would be interesting to see photos of better examples out there.

 

[Frontiersman_]

That is such a neat revolver. I'm wondering how much the barrel length makes in velocity. That should be a fun shooter.

 

[raljr1]

I have two RP Targets shipped about a year apart in 1921-1922...i have shot mine with only factory ammo thus far...i love these 32s.

Robert

 

[Casual Smith Nut]

Frontiersman, all things being equal i think barrel length increases velocity 50 fps per inch give or take. Really it's hard to say since there quite a few variables in any given revolver which can affect bullet velocity such as cylinder gap, bullet fit in cylinder throat diameter vs bore diameter, powder burn rate etc....

I too love these 32s. Great on being economical for powder and lead and still more pop than the 22 LR. One thing that doesn't help the shoot-ability of these little guns is their light weight and petite frame. Takes a lot more discipline to shoot small guns well. Even with the long 6 inch barrel it's still very light and subject to the caffeine shakes!

 

[Casual Smith Nut]

This evening I had a closer look at the Smith Wesson Standard Catalog 4th Edition. On page 141 I noticed something which points to a mistake I made in my opening post. I had said it was a Model 1903 1st Change whereas the serial 1058x would put it as just prior to the 1st change as a Model 1903, simply. Serial number range prior to the 1st Change were 1 - 19,425.

Later on the same page 141 it says:
"VARIATIONS
No target models have been reported in this early s/n range. If verified by factory letter, would be worth substantial premium. Target Models do exist for the various changes of the Model 1903 - see below."
Then the catalog goes on to describe the 1st Change onwards.

This agrees with OPOEFC's earlier post on this thread.
Looks like I need to pony up and get the gun lettered.

 

[Casual Smith Nut]

Or maybe Opoefc Ed is the one who would write the letter ha!

 

[BC38]

The black hard rubber grips do have some slight warping/stretching at the top to where they don't close on the frame entirely leaving a small gap in top rear seam between both grips. I don't want to crank down too hard since they're probably brittle.

You can flatten/repair those grips a lot easier than you might think. I've done it. Here are the steps.
1) Put a grip panel into a cup of very hot water - almost boiling - and let it sit for about 10 minutes to soften it up.
2) Remove the panel from the water and clamp it flat side down to a hard flat surface - like a granite countertop or a smooth tile. Use padded clamps.
3) Let it sit like that until it cools down and it will stay flat.

Repeat the process with the other panel.

I have a 32 HE in the 149xxx range and the left panel was both warped and cracked. I followed the process outlined above to flatten it after first warming it in hot water and using rubber bands to squeeze the crack closed. I wicked superglue into the crack after it cooled and then had to flatten the panel as described above. Worked like a charm.

Here is a photo before and after. Not the greatest photos, but I didn't really try to take good ones because frankly I didn't know if the repair would even work, but it was in such bad shape I figured I didn't have anything to lose. It really surprised me how well it turned out.

 

[Casual Smith Nut]

Thanks for the tip and suggestion BC38. The old hard rubber grips on the 32 HE Target are too scarce for me to take a chance on trying to reform them. They only have the slightest separation at the top of the grips at the rear backstrap. I'll definitely keep your method in mind though for grips on other guns though.

 

[BC38]

Thanks for the tip and suggestion BC38. The old hard rubber grips on the 32 HE Target are too scarce for me to take a chance on trying to reform them. They only have the slightest separation at the top of the grips at the rear backstrap. I'll definitely keep your method in mind though for grips on other guns though.

OK. I don't know if this will work with anything but the hard rubber (actually the material is called gutta purcha) grips.
FWIW, if you follow the steps I outlined, there is really no risk to speak of, but if you're OK with their current condition, that's understandable. From your previous post I had the impression they were more deformed than that.