What is the "Pros and Cons" of a full length guide rod in a Model 1911 .45acp ?
Model 1911 Guide Rod
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Pros:
Prevents recoil spring binding when using heavy weight recoil springs.
May help the slide to track straighter during cycling.
Cons:
More difficult to field strip and reassemble the pistol.
Avoid the two-piece full length rods, they will unscrew during firing. Ask me how I know. I think full length rods are fine on target 1911's and for the 10mm, which requires a heavier recoil spring, but I do not care for them on 1911's to be used for serious purposes.
Prevents recoil spring binding when using heavy weight recoil springs.
May help the slide to track straighter during cycling.
Cons:
More difficult to field strip and reassemble the pistol.
Avoid the two-piece full length rods, they will unscrew during firing. Ask me how I know. I think full length rods are fine on target 1911's and for the 10mm, which requires a heavier recoil spring, but I do not care for them on 1911's to be used for serious purposes.
bmcgilvray
Member
I was given one once to try. I put it in a Colt Gold Cup for about a year. They are said to be an accuracy enhancer for a pistol. I really never discerned any difference in the pistol's accuracy. It was accurate before the addition.
I took the thing out as just so much baggage and put the Gold Cup back to stock.
I took the thing out as just so much baggage and put the Gold Cup back to stock.
gwpercle
Member
Pro : A solution looking for a problem ... in 50 years of shooting 1911 45 acp I haven't found the problem... I'm TOLD it does exist .
Con: Harder to assemble / dissasemble .
John M. Browning knew a thing or two about firearms ... he got the 1911 right . Don't go there ... in 45 acp loads it isn't worth it . I'm speaking of full siz 1911's not compacts or mini's
Gary
Con: Harder to assemble / dissasemble .
John M. Browning knew a thing or two about firearms ... he got the 1911 right . Don't go there ... in 45 acp loads it isn't worth it . I'm speaking of full siz 1911's not compacts or mini's
Gary
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Hair Trigger
US Veteran
I wouldn't say harder to field strip, just different. The short guide rod has the barrel bushing, the long guide rod doesn't. If you have a paperclip, the long rod takes down faster than the short one (and reassembles), because you can trap the spring on the guide rod. Some of the long rod haters talk about accuracy, but I've not noticed any difference, myself.
Once you get used to one or the other, it's a wash, IMO. The short rod doesn't require a "tool" to take it apart, the long rod does. I keep a paperclip in my range bag for the purpose. Of my three 1911's, two are long rod (9mm Springfield EMP4 and 10mm Ruger SR1911). My Springfield 1911A1 is the short rod.
03hemi
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Maybe so, but he didn't design the newer, shorter barreled platform with all it's inherent issues either.
Without getting into the need or don't need debate, It can add weight to help mitigate recoil. Especially if going with one made out of tungsten.
The only 1911 style gun I currently own that has one is my STI Stacatto. And that's used as a recoil reducer.
The only 1911 style gun I currently own that has one is my STI Stacatto. And that's used as a recoil reducer.
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Dan Carey
Member
Tried one on my full size 1911because I wanted to try a muzzle brake. Didn't notice and difference at all except take-down/assembly became more difficult. Had no need to change the stock recoil springs because I shoot factory loads. It was all a waste of time and money in my opinion.
All three of my compact 1911's have a full length rod but take-down/assembly is slightly different anyway and not difficult at all.
All three of my compact 1911's have a full length rod but take-down/assembly is slightly different anyway and not difficult at all.
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Ivan the Butcher
Member
I built several (40ish) full sized 1911's in the 1980's from used GI parts. If a 1911 has a problem a stronger return spring & FLGR will fix almost anything not magazine & feed ramp related! The stainless system I used was from Wilson and added 2+ ounces to the front end. If the slide has a slight curve in it, loose rail fit and a FLGR are about the only fix short of replacement. (Once you had the problem guns running, they were almost impossible to jamb with full power RN ammo-cast or jacketed! even full of mud or sand!!!)
Ivan
Ivan
St. JMB thy will be done, no full length guide rods.
Ivan the Butcher
Member
I did notice on all the 3.25 & 3 inch 45's I've owned (7) that they used a very light guide rod so as to not add weight. EXCEPT for one officer sized Springfield (ca.1995) used the heavy captured rod and no barrel bushing, nothing but 185 auto wadcutters would feed reliably in this gun. A 8" paper plate is my carry gun accuracy standard, This gun exceeded 8" at 15 feet!
Ivan
Ivan
Rpg
Member
I’ve never found a benefit in flgr. I suspect that their desirability is primarily a cool look rather than anything functional.
They do screw up a proper press check.
They do screw up a proper press check.
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rockquarry
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If you like 'em, use 'em. I've never seen a benefit over conventional setup, whether using target loads or full-power. The added difficulty in reassembly is enough reason for me to avoid them.
smithra_66
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Pros: NONE
Cons: Ugly, harder to field strip, makes your wallet lighter.
If a full length guide rod was needed, Mr. Browning would have put it on there.
Full length guide rod prevents clearing a stoppage by pushing the slide against a post.
Grayfox
US Veteran
I've never liked them in full size or Commander sized 1911s. Their only purpose seems to be making the gun harder to field strip and put back together. 
My 3" Springfield Ultra-Compact uses a captured recoil spring system that requires a FLGR as part of the assembly. Even with the provided tool, field stripping is a PITA!
Two piece FLGRs are trouble just waiting to happen. They WILL either unscrew or break at the threads. Its just a matter of time. I has happened to me and is one of the reasons I hate a FLGR in a 1911.
I have purchased a couple of 1911s that came from the factory with FLGRs. I took them out and replaced them with the standard set up. Never a problem out of any of them.
In fact, the 1911 I bought just last weekend is currently waiting the parts to replace the FLGR in it.
Years ago in the days of printed/paper gun magazines, I read an interview with Ed Brown. He stated that the only reason his products had FLGRs was because the buyers insisted on them. He went on to say that none of his personal pistols used them.
My 3" Springfield Ultra-Compact uses a captured recoil spring system that requires a FLGR as part of the assembly. Even with the provided tool, field stripping is a PITA!
Two piece FLGRs are trouble just waiting to happen. They WILL either unscrew or break at the threads. Its just a matter of time. I has happened to me and is one of the reasons I hate a FLGR in a 1911.
I have purchased a couple of 1911s that came from the factory with FLGRs. I took them out and replaced them with the standard set up. Never a problem out of any of them.
In fact, the 1911 I bought just last weekend is currently waiting the parts to replace the FLGR in it.
Years ago in the days of printed/paper gun magazines, I read an interview with Ed Brown. He stated that the only reason his products had FLGRs was because the buyers insisted on them. He went on to say that none of his personal pistols used them.
Fishinfool
Member
I have owned fair number of 1911's with both. Never found an accuracy or reliability difference with one style over the other.
The one exception seems to be the Officers sized guns. The only two shorty 1911's I have owned that were what I would call "carry reliable" used them.
Larry
The one exception seems to be the Officers sized guns. The only two shorty 1911's I have owned that were what I would call "carry reliable" used them.
Larry
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minconrevo
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In line with several others, I would not suggest running a FLGR on a serious purposes pistol.
In competition/target use they put a little more weight out towards the muzzle; a good thing to help reduce recoil. If using a 2 piece rod I'd suggest choose only SS for the rod material When torqued snugly they almost always stay tight. The better choice is a 1 piece with a takedown pin hole on the end. Changes how one field strips a 1911 but works.
Yes, maybe the FLGR does smooth out recoil a little, especially on the consistency of feel side.
A recoil spring that is almost too long when compressed will still work with a GI plug gun. That same spring will break the barrel bushing lug off in a FLGR gun.
In competition/target use they put a little more weight out towards the muzzle; a good thing to help reduce recoil. If using a 2 piece rod I'd suggest choose only SS for the rod material When torqued snugly they almost always stay tight. The better choice is a 1 piece with a takedown pin hole on the end. Changes how one field strips a 1911 but works.
Yes, maybe the FLGR does smooth out recoil a little, especially on the consistency of feel side.
A recoil spring that is almost too long when compressed will still work with a GI plug gun. That same spring will break the barrel bushing lug off in a FLGR gun.
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