I am a collector. I have acquired a Model 1917 45ACP Smith and Wesson. Previous owners had it nickel plated and cut the barrel to 4 inches. I want to restore it to original as possible; finish can be re-blued, however finding a original barrel seems to be a bit of a problem. Any ideas as to where a original barrel can be purchased. Thank you and God Bless America.
Model 1917 45ACP
- Thread starter Jim117
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CQB27
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I looked for one for a while to replace a shot out one, but found none. I finally just bought another 1917. As crazy as that sounds, I think it's much easier than finding a barrel. Good luck in your search.
I'd check gunbroker and also actually ebay regularly, some of the most random bits and bobs go through there it's amazing. Just as a for instance, there's a NOS Victory barrel on there right now.
You can try reaching out to some of the larger companies that specialize in mil-surp and parts, such as Sarco, but you may have already exhausted that route.
Good luck, sounds like a great project!
You can try reaching out to some of the larger companies that specialize in mil-surp and parts, such as Sarco, but you may have already exhausted that route.
Good luck, sounds like a great project!
Welcome to the forum.
To my knowledge there aren't any known or advertised factory barrels left that are readily available but who knows what might pop up on this forum, GB, or ebay, etc. There were some more recent manufacture Brazil (Imbel???) barrels that were available but I haven't seem one of those in a while but I'm sure they're out there somewhere and will likely be cheaper and more available than an original S&W. I was fortunate in that I ran across a NOS commercial barrel sometime ago to replace a shot out military one. From a financial standpoint, you'd likely be better off to find an original gun in the condition you want and buy it. IMO, what you'll have when you done with your project will be an expensive rebuilt non-original 1917. Which there's nothing wrong with that but unless you do the work yourself, you'll likely have more in it than it's worth. Just my opinion. Good luck.
ETA:
Does your chopped 1917 shoot ok now? Sounds like a dandy to me, post pics if you don't mind. I have several chopped 1917's as well as others here do too. We kinda like them.
To my knowledge there aren't any known or advertised factory barrels left that are readily available but who knows what might pop up on this forum, GB, or ebay, etc. There were some more recent manufacture Brazil (Imbel???) barrels that were available but I haven't seem one of those in a while but I'm sure they're out there somewhere and will likely be cheaper and more available than an original S&W. I was fortunate in that I ran across a NOS commercial barrel sometime ago to replace a shot out military one. From a financial standpoint, you'd likely be better off to find an original gun in the condition you want and buy it. IMO, what you'll have when you done with your project will be an expensive rebuilt non-original 1917. Which there's nothing wrong with that but unless you do the work yourself, you'll likely have more in it than it's worth. Just my opinion. Good luck.
ETA:
Does your chopped 1917 shoot ok now? Sounds like a dandy to me, post pics if you don't mind. I have several chopped 1917's as well as others here do too. We kinda like them.
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S&W Model 1917 .45acp Barrels:
Even in the 1950s and 1960s when these revolver were selling though mail order houses for $29.00 each (shipped via Railway Express) replacement barrels were non-existence.
Even in the 1950s and 1960s when these revolver were selling though mail order houses for $29.00 each (shipped via Railway Express) replacement barrels were non-existence.
No offense, but replacing the barrel and doing another refinishing is only going to bring the gun further away from the way it shipped. I believe the serial number is on the barrel along with many other places.
Your best bet is to leave it as is. If it bothers you sell it and buy something else. You could sink $200 into a refinish and rebarrelled and the resulting gun might be worth $50 to $100 more than it is today and that's if you lucky.
Your best bet is to leave it as is. If it bothers you sell it and buy something else. You could sink $200 into a refinish and rebarrelled and the resulting gun might be worth $50 to $100 more than it is today and that's if you lucky.
In this post the member has one that's original and he wants to chop it.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/488141-s-w-1917-1937-chop-not-chop.html
As another member suggested, maybe you guys should do a swap!
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/488141-s-w-1917-1937-chop-not-chop.html
As another member suggested, maybe you guys should do a swap!
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PM sent regarding barrel swap
Frank46
US Veteran
Post an ad in the want to buy section of this forum. That is what I did and got a nice 1917 barrel for my 1937 contract Brazilian 45acp revolver. You just may luck out and find one for sale. Frank
If you're a collector, you know the gun may be restored to its factory configuration, but it will never be original. The collector value will be negligible, but it may be great as a shooter. You probably bought it well, but the cost of re-configuration will be more than its worth. Look for a revolver in "collector" condition. There are plenty of them out there.
S.B.
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Several decades back GPs had some newly manufactured barrel for the 1917s but, alas all are gone far before now.
Steve
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Smith and Wesson 1917
I just acquired a smith and wesson model 1917. It has a lot of pitting but I want to restore it. I was cleaning the revolver. Now the hammer will not stay back in the cocked position. I can't imaging what I did. Does anyone have a suggest to make the appropriate adjustment so the hammer will resume cocking in the single action position?
I just acquired a smith and wesson model 1917. It has a lot of pitting but I want to restore it. I was cleaning the revolver. Now the hammer will not stay back in the cocked position. I can't imaging what I did. Does anyone have a suggest to make the appropriate adjustment so the hammer will resume cocking in the single action position?
Hard to say w/o a hands-on inspection, but replacing the hammer & trigger would probably do the trick. Are you certain you've cleaned it thoroughly & reassembled it correctly ? Parts are probably available from Gun Parts Corp. in N.Y.
Larry
Larry
Are you sure you got the trigger return spring, slide, and the trigger toggle between slide and trigger right. If trigger doesn't move to correct position it will not engage hammer.
