Model 2 .38 DA?

[Formula3]

My grandfather gave me this unboxed pistol sometime in the early eighties as I recall. He noted it was manufactured ~1880-1884, called the grips Pearl, and I think he transposed the first digit of the s/n as 62xxx; with a lupe it looks like 92xxx to me. I'm unsure whether the finish is original factory nickel, factory re-finished, or other. It's a handsome old gun. Can anyone help me positively identify it, and help me find a general value appraisal?

Type = Top-Break
S/N = 92xxx
Ctg = .38 S&W
Barrel = 5"
Sights = Fixed
Strain Screw = Yes

Thank you all!

 

[opoefc]

Welcome to the Forum. It's a .38 Double Action, 2nd model. The serial number should be seen on the butt, on the rear of the cylinder, on the bottom of the barrel latch and between the "ears" of the rear of the barrel. The stocks are pearl and could be original to the gun and, if so, could be marked on the rear of the right panel with the serial number. It's hard to tell from your photos if its been finished. Post a clear close photo of the left side of the frame and if it has been refinished, then a close inspection of the side plate fit can identify a refinish. Similar guns can usually be found at gun shows and on the auction sits for $225 to $325 range. If the gun is in good mechanical condition it should be safe to fire with modern .38S&W ammo. Ed.

 

[Formula3]

Thanks so much, opoefc. And fast! I let my bore-light batteries corrode so I need to grab a new one to double-check the barrel but the gun does seem to be in excellent mechanical condition. Here's a left-frame close-up, and thanks again.

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! I don't think it has been refinished. Looks pretty good to me. Here's mine with the correct grips for that period:

 

[Formula3]

Thanks, Wiregrassguy!

 

[opoefc]

Formula 3, Notice the difference in the side plate fit between your gun and Wiregrasse's gun. Your gun shows typical evidence of the polish needed for a refinish, that causes the edges of the side plate to become slightly beveled. Your gun has been refinished, in my opinion. That's not a huge detriment to the value for this model, as 1,000s were made and are still out there, and it does not affect the value as a shooter. Ed.

 

[mmaher94087]

Formula3, the barrel hinge pin and screw are reversed on your revolver. Loosen the screw a turn or three and gently tap the screw head to drive the opposite side out. Remove the screw and pin and reinstall opposite what they are now. The barrel and the pin have witness marks and should align.

 

[first-model]

I agree with everything that has been said.

One additional note: I'm guessing that the surfaces of this gun were gone over with a wire brush (probably on a bench grinder) at some point. It hurts its value as an antique, but as others have said it wouldn't affect its ability to shoot well.

That said, it's probably not possible to tell if the gun was originally nickel plated or blued.

Mike

 

[mmaher94087]

It does have the "wire brush" look to it. I'd guess the revolver was nickeled and had rust issues.

 

[glowe]

Welcome to the Forum. You have a gun that looks good, but I believe it has been cleaned severely and most of what you see is steel not nickel. Nothing that affects the function of the gun, but I see these over-cleaned 38 DAs selling for under $200 regularly. Forgot to add that the pearls could be factory, but distributors did add pearls to these guns as well, since they were perceived as preferred back in the late 1800s. Ship date for your gun would have been in the early 1880s.

The barrel pivot pin is inserted backwards. The screw should be on the left and the pin has a small index mark that should line up with a mark on the right side of the frame when inserted properly. Enjoy.

 

[Formula3]

Thank you both, Mike and Gary for pointing out the reversed barrel pivot pin. Easy peasy in and out thanks to your clear and simple instructions.