Model 25-2 - Help Me Date!

[seansvoice]

I have wanted a Model 25 for a long time...especially the classic 6.5" pinned barrel variation. Today I ventured into a gun show and managed a trade involving my 686-3 and some other stuff...and what I walked away with is a real beauty!

Came with the presentation box, tags, cleaners...all the candy including 9 half moons.

The SN is N4055XX and on the left grip frame and inside the yoke there is another number: 7573X.

My guess is early 1970s...does that sound right?

One problem...in SA mode the lightest touch of the trigger drops the hammer...but not with full force, and the hammer sometimes doesn't engage. To get a full-force hammer drop I have to jerk the trigger. I am guessing a spring job is in order...does that sound right?

Check the pictures and thanks in advance for the help with a gun I KNOW I am going to take to my grave!

 

[P&R Fan]

That's a nice one.
The Catalog dates it to 1977.
Jim

 

[MajorDude]

One problem...in SA mode the lightest touch of the trigger drops the hammer...but not with full force, and the hammer sometimes doesn't engage. To get a full-force hammer drop I have to jerk the trigger. I am guessing a spring job is in order...does that sound right?

Before you do that, check to make sure your strain screw in the front of the grip strap is screwed all the way in. I have had light strike problems with my 25-2 from that. Sometimes it backs out on recoil. Congrats on a real find. Those are great looking and incredibly accurate revolvers in my experience. I've had a couple of requests to buy mine if I ever decide to sell it. Not likely!

 

[Art Doc]

Maybe somebody did a homegrown trigger job and botched it? The stocks don't look like original S&W to me.

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

If the trigger is like that, check for push off by cocking the gun, then pushing on the back of the hammer spur with your thumb. If it falls, you need to leave the gun be until someone can fix it. That is a highly unsafe condition. Usually the sear notch can be re-cut to correct it, but not always. The hammer is only hardened to about .006" deep and if the person who monkey'd with it went through that, the notch will never hold its correct depth/shape again for very long. If that's the case, you will need another hammer that is unmolested installed.

I agree with SP- those stocks look like aftermarket to me.

Otherwise, nice find.

 

[seansvoice]

That's a nice one.
The Catalog dates it to 1977.
Jim

Thanks, Jim. After I posted I found a list that put this particular series of serial numbers 1975 - 1977...

 

[seansvoice]

If the trigger is like that, check for push off by cocking the gun, then pushing on the back of the hammer spur with your thumb. If it falls, you need to leave the gun be until someone can fix it. That is a highly unsafe condition. Usually the sear notch can be re-cut to correct it, but not always. The hammer is only hardened to about .006" deep and if the person who monkey'd with it went through that, the notch will never hold its correct depth/shape again for very long. If that's the case, you will need another hammer that is unmolested installed.

I agree with SP- those stocks look like aftermarket to me.

Otherwise, nice find.

I appreciate the info. I am going to test the hammer ASAP...

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

I appreciate the info. I am going to test the hammer ASAP...

When I bought mine, it had push off and the shop that sold it to me tried to fix it, but it didn't last, and quickly became rough/gritty feeling. I bough a NOS hammer and fitted it. Now it's like new again. Mine came with the case and tools all in great condition too.

Hopefully yours just needs the strain screw tightened, but alas, that's just too easy usually. Good luck with yours though!

 

[seansvoice]

When I bought mine, it had push off and the shop that sold it to me tried to fix it, but it didn't last, and quickly became rough/gritty feeling. I bough a NOS hammer and fitted it. Now it's like new again. Mine came with the case and tools all in great condition too.

Hopefully yours just needs the strain screw tightened, but alas, that's just too easy usually. Good luck with yours though!

I appreciate it. As it turns out, it is a condition of "push off"...I am going to replace hammer. If that doesn't do the trick I can always take it to the smith...

 

[Weimar]

I had a gunsmith do a trigger job on mine - however, he untightened the screw as part of it - so I tightened the screw - same issue with a 686 - it was too light f a mainspring and it would act up...

factory specs make sense many times....

 

[flagman1776]

My M25-2 SN6150XX was bought new 5/1978, so your born date is well before that.

 

[seansvoice]

I had a gunsmith do a trigger job on mine - however, he untightened the screw as part of it - so I tightened the screw - same issue with a 686 - it was too light f a mainspring and it would act up...

factory specs make sense many times....

The funny thing is that most of the "hot rod" gun parts places will sell you the lighter mainsprings but always recommend "Type 1" (factory style).

Before I buy a hammer I am going to open the side panel and make sure everything is where it is supposed to be...and I do have a Wolff spring kit on the way...and I also know that too much crud can make things work strangely as well.

I will keep you gents updated!

 

[seansvoice]

Maybe somebody did a homegrown trigger job and botched it? The stocks don't look like original S&W to me.

Regarding the grips they look like either rosewood or very dark walnut. They feel great but I am going to shop for a set of vintage S&W N frame grips.

I am a stickler for things like that. My Colt M1911 (actually a Commercial model) dates to 1917 and has been in my family since the late 1960s. Over the last 97 years it managed to pick up some WWII vintage parts...like Coltwood grips, a US&S hammer, a curved MSH, etc. I found a set of 15 row Colt walnut double diamond stocks from 1912, a period correct Colt hammer and MSH...even a lanyard loop flat MSH and lanyard loop mags...
It now looks (and performs) as it should...

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

The funny thing is that most of the "hot rod" gun parts places will sell you the lighter mainsprings but always recommend "Type 1" (factory style).

Before I buy a hammer I am going to open the side panel and make sure everything is where it is supposed to be...and I do have a Wolff spring kit on the way...and I also know that too much crud can make things work strangely as well.

I will keep you gents updated!

Are you familiar with removing and re-installing the side plate?

 

[seansvoice]

UPDATE: I broke the pistol down today, cleaned, oiled and reassembled with a fresh main spring (Type 1).

After carefully putting everything back in place and properly replacing the side plate, tightening the main spring and re-installing the grips, something was proved out that I suspected while I had the plate off: A previous owner modified the gun for DA only...the only reason the hammer would lock in SA mode at all was because of gummy oil.

I ordered an NOS hammer assembly...and next week when it arrives we will see how well it fits. If it doesn't I will put it back together and let a pro do the heavy lifting.