Model 27 Classic - no rollmark?

marlinspike

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I picked up a new Model 27 Classic yesterday. I don't know how I didn't notice until today, but there is no S&W rollmark on the frame. There's all the made in USA marcas registradas stuff, but not the big symbol rearward of the cylinder. Is this a factory oops, an old style, or a new style?

Speaking of factory oops, the forcing cone must've not been quite right because now there is a burr on the left outside edge of the forcing cone and some light scratches on the cylinder face. It doesn't rub anymore, so it won't be an ongoing problem. Am I well advised to send it back or just keep it?

It is pretty though, even with that lock
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Their website shows it as only on the opposite side. What is that mark right about where the barrel pin should be???
 
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Their website shows it as only on the opposite side. What is that mark right about where the barrel pin should be???

Yeah, I know it should be on the opposite side, I just didn't take a photograph of that side, but you can trust me that there is no mark.

As far as the mark where the barrel pin should be, it's either a reflection or a piece of lint. I see what you're talking about in the photo, but not on the gun.
 
Since the forcing cone on N frame .357's is so think I would just lightly hit the bad edge with a file and then touch it up with some cold blue. But work like that isn't for everyone so you could try calling or emailing them to see what they offer. Either way it sure is a looker. Thinking about buying the "Plug" for it?
 
Link to said plug?
This is my 14th gun, but only my 2nd revolver (3rd if you count my dad's Ruger Security-Six that I was introduced to shooting on when I was 8) and my first Smith & Wesson.

Speaking of that Ruger, it's amazing what even Ruger can do with a blued revolver when they put their minds to it.
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My dad bought that new in 1973. It got out of time, so I sent it to Ruger, along with a note asking for a quote to reblue (after 37 years in a leather holster it had a little rust). It came back as pictured (i.e. with a nicer bluing job than any Ruger I have ever seen in my life, including a Red Label), along with a target rear sight blade and an amazing accuracy job (according to the notes they replaced every moving part, redid the forcing cone, redid the crown, and it's apparent they did work to the lockup and the trigger parts - it put 6 shots in under an inch at 25 yards). I called them to ask how much I owed them because they forgot to bill me. No charge.
 
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Link to the "Plug":

http://smith-wessonforum.com/accessories-misc-sale-trade/143299-fs-plug.html

I have installed three of them and was about to order a forth when I found my 637 has a crack in the frame. If you are comfortable pulling the side plate then this is easy. I'm no genius and I can do it. I'm getting good enough at it that it would only take minutes if I didn't stop to clean and oil everything. I'm sorely tempted to buy a stone or two but not willing to ruin parts just yet...

Secondly, That may be the best looking Security Six I have ever seen. Yours is a low back earlier model if I'm not mistaken. While new grips can be a bear to find on those, they are somewhat collectable. I have been told too many times that while they are very different inside from a S&W they are just as capable of having good triggers. I know my six inch SS will shoot better than I can. That one is a keeper for sure. Since you shared a pic of yours, here is mine. Note the difference in the frame where your hammer is exposed more and you have less frame area above your grip than mine. I'm a little envious of yours...

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Your barrel also doesn't suffer from the lawyer warning roll mark nonsense...
 
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The downside to the early style is it will bite the web of your hand.

Speaking of which, this 27 cut the joint on my thumb. I wonder if S&W will sell me the grips they put on the 6.5" gun....
 
Speaking of which, this 27 cut the joint on my thumb. I wonder if S&W will sell me the grips they put on the 6.5" gun....

That's what happens when your thumb joint falls too close to the thumb piece. This has a lot to do with the conformation of your hands, believe me! Gotta learn to keep your thumb either well down, or stick it up so the thumb piece doesn't hit it. This is why it is common to see guns with the bottom of the thumb piece cut of straight with the bottom of the front tang.

Not only does the thumb piece cut my thumb, usually on J & K frames, but on N Frames the horn of the stock will take the hide off the second joint just like a broken blister.

Yes, they will sell you any stocks you want, don't even have to own a gun for them! If you mean will they trade, not likely.
 
They source them through Altamont. Check out their website for some amazing stocks. Also I love Ahrends stocks. I own a few from each of them and will keep buying them.
 
Altamont only has silver S&W medalions for the grips :(
That said, I'm glad you mentioned them because I finally found a set of grips for my Ruger Bisley that I like!

So, going back to the original question, anybody have any ideas as to why mine has no S&W symbol on it? I wonder if this will be like an upside down stamp (i.e. more collectable).
 
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