Model 28-2 barrel change

6actual

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I have a nice old Model 28-2 4'' that has a swollen barrel from a squib load I would imagine. I got it this way for a sweet deal and figured just a barrel swap and I'm good, but in reading here it looks more complex than I thought and I want it done right.I found a really good replacement barrel and now I am looking for some one with the skill and time to do the task. Any references or recommendations? Thanks Y'all
 
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What kind of mechanical skills do you have and what tools. It is not an impossible job. First there is the pin. It is about .050 smallest common drift punch is 1/16 or .0625. You can chuck one up in a drill and hold it square to grinder and take down a bit under .050. I made mine out of a couple old nail sets and left my drift punches alone. The gun must be firmly positioned, you need a steady hand and a firm wack with a small hammer will get it going and out. I clamp my barrel using a vise and 2 pieces of oak flooring with a grooves that fit around barrel. The frame is the hard part. You can buy a frame wrench and inserts or make one. I used 2 pieces of 1"x1/4" angle. drilled holed for 1/4" bolts and the made some inserts the fit around the barrel portion of frame down into the yoke cut and tthen around the portion of frame yoke pivots fits into. I made mine from nylon blocks, but hardwood would work.. I place inserts on gun and tightly clamp angle pieces around inserts and frame using the bolts. You must firmly clam this portion of frame or risk deforming it! One of the angle pieces has a rod welded on it for a handle. Soak barrel area of frame with Kroil for a day of so then remove. First bit is all that will be tight. hand tighten after you loosen it to get an idea where it should snug up. Remember this for new barrel install. Thread in new barrel, it should come hard hand tight appox 8-9 o'clock (remember from checking old barrel). Use barrel blocks and frame block set up to tighten to 12'00. If it doesn't time, that is a problem that needs special tools or a lathe to trim back shoulder of barrel to allow it to tighten up correctly. Once barrel is mounted close cylinder and check gap. .004-.006 with cylinder held to the rear is perfect. To tight and you can adjust with a fine file with one edge safed (teeth ground off one edge) and a small metal shim between barrel shank and frame to keep from marring frame. you MUST keep file flat and use smooth strokes, check gap often. (they make a tool for this that also functions as a forcing cone cutter). If you only remove a couple thousands don't worry about the forcing cone. If the gap is over say .008 you need to remove barrel and cut back shoulder to get it to turn another full turn and then remove enough metal frame rear to get cylinder to clear and have proper gap. This will require a lathe or a special tool or some really really good file skills and some Prussian blue) A full turn gets you .0273 so over .02 will need removed to get cylinder to close and work on gap. This means redoing forcing cone and removing .0273 from tip of ejector rod assy (the barrel lug move back .0273). Lathe or special tool for redoing forcing cone.

In other words if you are competent to make a good frame wrench or buy one you might get luck and barrel will time up and gap right, if not your going to need more tools. I have been luck in that most barrels I have done timed alright.

Best bet is a gunsmith who has done this. Florida must have some.
 
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In other words if you are competent to make a good frame wrench or buy one you might get luck and barrel will time up and gap right, if not your going to need more tools. I have been luck in that most barrels I have done timed alright.

Best bet is a gunsmith who has done this. Florida must have some.

I may give this route a shot if I cant find a smith, I have called a few but no return calls as yet. I guess its not really a big job if you have the tools and knowledge, Its a beautiful pistol and I would hate to make a rookie error and damage it. I have two other model 28's, a pre 28 that I don't shoot much and a 6inch (they seem to multply:) ) so I have others to shoot, This one will be my range toy/load test mule when I get it up and running.
 
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Last time I hade this done it cost me about $65 to pay somebody who knows what they are doing to do it. I'm sure it is closer to $100 now but by the time you buy or build a wrench and barrel blocks and a cutter to trim the B/C gap (if needed) you will be well behind the curve. Unless you just really want to do it yourself go ahead and pay. YOu CAN do it yourself, I have done more than one myself (in years gone by).
 
If it was and old beater M10 I would give it a try myself but a nice N Frame I would much rather have a pro do it, I just need to find one. I'm looking for recommendations of who to do the work. Lots of "smifs" in my area who can manage a Glock barrel change but I would prefer to go with a someone who has the rep for doing S&W revolver things right
 
Ford's Refinishing gunsmith, Jim, don't know last name has the jigs to keep from damaging your frame and can often do it while you wait. He did one for me a while ago for around $50 as I recall. Ford's is in Crystal River, FL.
 
I found a smith this AM, Dave Clements @ Clements Custom Guns after taking the time to talk, very pleasant man to talk to, and some good salesmanship on his part, Its on its way to him and will return as a 44 spl 4inch N-frame. I am excited, I will post pics when its back :)
 
You have made a very wise choice. David is a very good pistolsmith. He built my .41spl on a 686 and is a very nice and knowledgeable person. JMHO-YMMV.................
 
I found a smith this AM, Dave Clements @ Clements Custom Guns after taking the time to talk, very pleasant man to talk to, and some good salesmanship on his part, Its on its way to him and will return as a 44 spl 4inch N-frame. I am excited, I will post pics when its back :)

Yes, David is a very good smith. He changed out a 8 3/8" M27 barrel for me. Swapped in a 5" one.

He also cut a 6 1/2" .44 Special barrel for me. Trimmed down to 5", fitted with a ramp front and did a reblue.
 
Ditto the part about letting a professional do the job. I have changed numerous K frame barrels but sprung the frame of a very nice used Model 28 about 15 years ago. Had to send it to the Mothership and it cost me $228 for a new N frame, mount the barrel, and stamp the old serial number so I didn't have to go through the hassle of registering the new frame in the People's Republic of New Jersey.
 
"The last Smith"
Or so says Dave Clements. This old 28-2 gave him some fits bringing it back to life. It started out as a 357 wall hanger with a 4" swollen barrel with slow timing and damaged extractor and now it's a fine looking P&R 44 special with a 4" barrel that locks up like a bank vault. Dave Clements work is outstanding! Can't wait to get it out this weekend and shoot it :)
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Nice save! Looking forward to your range reported. Last year I had Mark Hartshorne turn an unshootable bubba'd beater 28-2 into a very nice 3" .41 mag using a titanium cylinder and a 4" M58 barrel. Did Dave rechamber your existing cylinder or find a donor .44spl cyl? What about the barrel?
 
Your got two things that you would not have gotten in a 1980s Model 24, recessed chambers and, I presume, snug cylinder throats.

It is too bad Clements will not continue working on S&Ws. He has a great reputation.
 
He used the original cylinder and had to practically remanufacture the extractor because the rachet was so worn. the old barrel was toast so he had a doner M28 barrel that he had on hand. It had already been bored to .44 w/ very nice lands and grooves. Initially this was supposed to have been just a barrel swap but.... :D
 
I own one of Dave Clements' 44 conversions on an old model Ruger 357 frame. It is pure perfection!! Gary
 
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