Model 28 Blueing Question

brainflood

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Can anyone tell me what method Smith & Wesson used to blue their Model 28-2 originally?

I am looking to get my example re-blued, but as I'm not in the States, returning to S&W might prove tricky. However, I have not ruled out talking to them yet!

I would appreciate any help or knowledge you might have of their methods/blueing formulas etc.
 
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Can anyone tell me what method Smith & Wesson used to blue their Model 28-2 originally?

I am looking to get my example re-blued, but as I'm not in the States, returning to S&W might prove tricky. However, I have not ruled out talking to them yet!

I would appreciate any help or knowledge you might have of their methods/formulas etc.

not sure if they offer the original finish that the 28 had... think all the do now is a blue bead blast that would be closest but not correct...and the original blue, and can't remember if they have a high gloss blue... or just the 2 blue options... looks like the site is down right now too... so can't post a link or i would... i have seen some NICE work though... it's pricey though... $199 if i remember correctly... but i have seen some REAL beaters go in with TERRIBLE pitting and some rust and come back looking new...
 
not sure if they offer the original finish that the 28 had... think all the do now is a blue bead blast that would be closest but not correct...and the original blue, and can't remember if they have a high gloss blue... or just the 2 blue options... looks like the site is down right now too... so can't post a link or i would... i have seen some NICE work though... it's pricey though... $199 if i remember correctly... but i have seen some REAL beaters go in with TERRIBLE pitting and some rust and come back looking new...

Many thanks carter357,

I've been in discussion with a gunsmith today who offers RUST Blueing and Caustic Black, but not Acid Etching. He suspects they had used Acid Etching to achieve that finish, but could not be sure. Here is my dilemma! He said, if he knows what method they used, he might be able to match it.

steveno - reason for re-blueing (a) it had already been re-blued before I obtained it (and is a little patchy), and (b) it has small patches of rust that I would like to have removed. It's a lovely example with very few marks, just needs a good finish! :)
 
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The model 28 was the utility version of the higher priced and more highly polished 27. fewer barrel length options, no top strap checkering, and any color you wanted as long as it was blue.

Through the years the appearance of the finish varied depending on just how much cursory polishing the production run actually got. I've seen some that have a flat matte looking finish and some that almost had a nice blue-black polished look to them.

As most will tell you, the purists say don't re-blue it. Money-wise they are right. Destroys any potential collector value and the money spent usually is more than what you could recoup from the work if you decide to sell it.

But we want what we want and there are enough 28's out there that many have been polished, re-blued, nickeled, hard chromed and even >shudder< Parkerized. I have seen a couple, badly abused, that I thought if I could pick it up cheap enough a nice hard chrome (Metaloy) job would be in order.

Bottom line is it's yours to do with as pleases you. If you have the money and that's what you want - go for it. As far as putting it back to original, to each his own. If I was going the refinish route on a 28 I'd probably spiff it up a bit since they are easy to find in good condition (over here). In your case, it's easier to understand in the UK why one would want to have it look original since the opportunity to replace it is probably between slim and none.
 
Lee, I have to ask, so don't take offense. How on earth does in happen that someone in Kent, UK is in possession of a model 28? I thought that handguns with barrel lengths under 12 inches were now banned in the UK.
 
Lee... if it was up to me... I would get the regular blue job... send it to S&W spend the 200 and get it done with them... they take it down to bare metal... restamp it with the logo and all lettering...then refinish it and test fire it and check the action...i think its worth the extra money for S&W to do it rather than a regular gun smith...you get what you pay for
 
While I agree that getting S&W to refinish the revolver is the best choice in most cases. I think shipping a handgun internationally would be a huge pain and I would recommend someone local do the refinish.
 
Lee, I have to ask, so don't take offense. How on earth does in happen that someone in Kent, UK is in possession of a model 28? I thought that handguns with barrel lengths under 12 inches were now banned in the UK.

No problem, happy to answer. This particular example has been de-activated. You are completely right, we are not allowed the freedom in the UK to own such handguns. My aim is to restore it to its best as the reblueing job done on it before I acquired it is not good, but the gun itself is in good shape.

I know you guys generally think it is madness to want to own deactivated weapons, but I just love Smith & Wesson revolvers and this is the nearest I can get without breaking our laws and spending the next five years in a UK prison!!! We can own revolvers if the calibre is now obsolete, so much older S&W's are still within our grasp!

FYI - my next vacation will be to the States to meet up with you guys for some good ole shooting sessions!!! Anyone interested??? :)
 
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The model 28 was the utility version of the higher priced and more highly polished 27. fewer barrel length options, no top strap checkering, and any color you wanted as long as it was blue.

Through the years the appearance of the finish varied depending on just how much cursory polishing the production run actually got. I've seen some that have a flat matte looking finish and some that almost had a nice blue-black polished look to them.

As most will tell you, the purists say don't re-blue it. Money-wise they are right. Destroys any potential collector value and the money spent usually is more than what you could recoup from the work if you decide to sell it.

But we want what we want and there are enough 28's out there that many have been polished, re-blued, nickeled, hard chromed and even >shudder< Parkerized. I have seen a couple, badly abused, that I thought if I could pick it up cheap enough a nice hard chrome (Metaloy) job would be in order.

Bottom line is it's yours to do with as pleases you. If you have the money and that's what you want - go for it. As far as putting it back to original, to each his own. If I was going the refinish route on a 28 I'd probably spiff it up a bit since they are easy to find in good condition (over here). In your case, it's easier to understand in the UK why one would want to have it look original since the opportunity to replace it is probably between slim and none.

NFrameFred - Do you happen to know what form of blueing S&W utilise?
 
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While I agree that getting S&W to refinish the revolver is the best choice in most cases. I think shipping a handgun internationally would be a huge pain and I would recommend someone local do the refinish.

fyimo - I tend to share your view. I wouldn't touch it in its current condition, but given the small patches of rust on it, if I attempt to remove these, I'll end up with a worse finish!

I would like to give this gun the best!
 
fyimo - I tend to share your view. I wouldn't touch it in its current condition, but given the small patches of rust on it, if I attempt to remove these, I'll end up with a worse finish!


More power to you on wanting the revolver as close to original as possible even in your case where it's been de-activated. S&W changed their bluing process over the years and the Model 28 didn't receive the high luster blue of the Model 27. I think if you could find a local place to refinish it and ask for a matt blue you would come very close. The bluing on the model 28's varies all over the place in original condition with some having more luster then others. I've seen them from nearly a flat matt blue to a somewhat shiny blue.

Good luck in whatever you do and it's a tragedy on what your government did to law abiding gun owners.
 
fyimo - I tend to share your view. I wouldn't touch it in its current condition, but given the small patches of rust on it, if I attempt to remove these, I'll end up with a worse finish!


More power to you on wanting the revolver as close to original as possible even in your case where it's been de-activated. S&W changed their bluing process over the years and the Model 28 didn't receive the high luster blue of the Model 27. I think if you could find a local place to refinish it and ask for a matt blue you would come very close. The bluing on the model 28's varies all over the place in original condition with some having more luster then others. I've seen them from nearly a flat matt blue to a somewhat shiny blue.

Good luck in whatever you do and it's a tragedy on what your government did to law abiding gun owners.

I totally agree, but sadly the consensus is that we cannot be trusted to behave maturely! I've joined a local gun club to make the best of our laws and enjoy what freedoms I can!
 
NFrameFred - Do you happen to know what form of blueing S&W utilise?

I think fyimo answered abut as well as can be. The general consensus is that some years back the chemicals/process S&W was using were deemed hazardous by the EPA and they went to a different process that does not produce the deep luster of blue-black that looked as if you could fall into it in the more beautifully polished versions.

I don't know any more than that in as much as it's generally just a hot bath bluing salts process that I would imagine, like most companies, is partly proprietary. Then again, it may not be and an inquiry directly to S&W may yield a simple answer for you.

I fear we too have too many people who would trade for imaginary safety and security the rights that caused better men to bleed to provide to them. The wisdom of the Founders and the document they drafted have held them at bay until now (for the most part) but that doesn't stop them from trying to subvert it every way they can squeeze and twist from misinterpretation. And the puzzling part of it is that some of them are gun owners.
 
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DO NOT REFINISH

M-28's are allowed to show some wear from use. I wouldn't get it reblued.

I agree. Model 28's are working guns. They wear their finishes with pride. I own 2, one that I am the original owner and one of purchased later.

Keep the 28 as it is.
 
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This is my 28-2 that was bead-blasted and reblued. It received this treatment before I bought it, and since I now shoot it all the time the bluing is starting to come off again.
 
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