Model 29-3 unlocking problem?

[Pantera Mike]

All,

I’m the original owner of a Model 29-3 purchased new in 1986. For about ten years it was perfectly reliable, but then a problem cropped up.

In a box of 50 rounds, 2-3 times the hammer would drop on an already-fired chamber. I had a friend fire it while I watched, and noticed that under recoil the cylinder would come unlocked, and due to the mismatch of weight between the full cartridges on the right side and empty ones on the left, the cylinder would rotate backwards. The gun would be cocked and the already-fired round would be presented for a second hammer strike.

I sent it back to S&W and they ‘repaired’ it at no cost. Since I got it back I probably only fired 150-200 rounds through it and it has been sitting mostly unused for 10-15 years.

Today I took it out again and fired a box of moderate-power loads (18 grains of 2400 behind a 240 grain SWC) and had it malfunction at least a half-dozen times in exactly the same manner.

What can be done apart from returning it to S&W again?

 

[k22fan]

Over 10 to 15 years of sitting some lubricants turn into an amber sticky goo. WD-40 is a common lubricant that ages to sludge. That would retard what should be the cylinder stop's quick snap back up. I'd start by removing the cylinder stop and cleaning it, its spring and the the area they work in with a gun oil like Hoppe's or Rem oil. A new spring would be inexpensive and couldn't hurt.

I hope the problem is that simple.

 

[cgt4570]

If that doesn't do it, the next suggestion would be a new, stronger Wolff cylinder stop spring.

 

[Protocall_Design]

I would do a full on clean and oil of all the lockworks and cylinder parts.

 

[Pantera Mike]

I zapped the cylinder stop with a quick shot of carb cleaner since it completely evaporates, and then some compressed air, followed by a generous helping of Hoppe’s gun oil. I hope to ops test it at the range late next week. Fingers crossed!

 

[saemetric]

I zapped the cylinder stop with a quick shot of carb cleaner since it completely evaporates, and then some compressed air, followed by a generous helping of Hoppe’s gun oil. I hope to ops test it at the range late next week. Fingers crossed!

Don’t add too generous a helping of oil. Too much is not recommended.

 

[Pantera Mike]

Now that you mention it, that makes perfect sense. I wish I had known before I did it.

Doh!

 

[Dieseltech56]

I have a 29-3 6" that has the cylinder counter rotation problem also. The only difference is mine was nearly unfired when I bought it. I did a little reading, took it apart and installed the new blue cylinder stop spring. At the same time I also installed lighter main/rebound springs. The latter I should not have done. It still counter rotated but not nearly as frequently.

The last time I took it apart to put the stock springs back in I noticed the cylinder stop was hanging up in the window occasionally when the hammer was cocked to the single action position. The cylinder would carry up to the correct spot but the stop was not coming up sometimes. I lightly filed the sides of the stop and it seems to work okay now.

The problem is the gun is so nice that it's not one of my regular shooters, I have no idea when it'll get back to the range to see how it functions.

 

[Pantera Mike]

Resurrecting an old thread here. I finally got a chance to get to the range with my cleaned and oiled Model 29 but it didn’t improve. I suffered about a dozen failures in a hundred rounds. Furthermore, accuracy seems to be less than stellar, compared with my 3-inch 629 with the same loads.

My suspicion is that the cylinder is coming unlocked on every round. Sometimes the cylinder just rotates slightly, and other times it actually rotates a full turn. But as the bullet is leaving the cylinder, it’s not necessarily lined up with the forcing cone so the bullet is wobbling down the barrel.

That’s my guess anyway. I guess the next course of action is to replace the cylinder stop spring? Wolff offers both regular and extra strength. Is more actually better?

And I have no idea how to replace it? I can only imagine me taking the side cover off and getting an explosion of parts and springs flying all over the room!

 

[Tom_R]

Resurrecting an old thread here. I finally got a chance to get to the range with my cleaned and oiled Model 29 but it didn’t improve. I suffered about a dozen failures in a hundred rounds. Furthermore, accuracy seems to be less than stellar, compared with my 3-inch 629 with the same loads.

My suspicion is that the cylinder is coming unlocked on every round. Sometimes the cylinder just rotates slightly, and other times it actually rotates a full turn. But as the bullet is leaving the cylinder, it’s not necessarily lined up with the forcing cone so the bullet is wobbling down the barrel.

That’s my guess anyway. I guess the next course of action is to replace the cylinder stop spring? Wolff offers both regular and extra strength. Is more actually better?

And I have no idea how to replace it? I can only imagine me taking the side cover off and getting an explosion of parts and springs flying all over the room!

I would send it back to S&W or to another Revolver master smith like Denny Reichert.

That's not enough rounds to shake that gun loose.

Trying to fix an issue like that by swapping springs may make things worse.

A functional inspection needs to be performed by an expert, the problem diagnosed, and the solution tested by them.

The key here is getting a clear diagnosis on the issue since this is the second time this has happened.

Since S&W took it in once, they should still have record of what they did.

 

[Pantera Mike]

Here is an interesting development. I wrote to Sand Burr Gun Ranch (Denny Reichard) and described my problem and asked if they could help. This is their reply:

“Sorry the only way to shoot that gun is to shoot light loads of 1000 feet or less...heavy loads are no more...best to keep princess in safe...that it why all of the new models have all the enhancements...wish we could be of more help....Sand Burr Gun Ranch”

So I guess everyone here who shoots a Model 29 made more than a couple of weeks ago should immediately hang it on the wall and never shoot it again. Or so they seem to think!

Time to find another gunsmith I think!!!

 

[Nightowl]

Call the factory. They should be able to fix it.

 

[KSK]

Make sure the mainspring tension screw is fully tightened and has not been altered (shortened). Any slacking of tension in the mainspring can cause or contribute to the cylinder backspin problem. Good luck.

 

[Peak53]

I call BS on SandBurr Gun Ranch. Quite a few thousand earlier 29’s are out there performing admirably with full magnum loads without benefit of the endurance package including my “princess.”

 

[Nightowl]

I just went back and re-read your post. Not sure why you received the letter you did, as these guns will run a long time. My model 29 from 1968 is still as good as it was the day it left the factory.

Now, in my limited experience, your issue is with the cylinder stop. There are a couple of things you can do with the cylinder stop, and if those do not work, then a new stop will need to be fitted. I have had a couple that the old stop worked after stoning, and one that the cylinder stop had to be replaced. It is not a difficult job,but needs to be done by someone who knows how. I still think the factory is a good option.

 

[jcelect]

Might be the shooter?

I'm speaking from experience! I can not shoot the 500 or the 460 because the problem is me when firing guns with heavy loads(large recoil)! I squeeze the trigger until the gun fires and at that moment I relax my trigger finger. Under the heavy recoil the relaxed finger slaps the trigger. This slight movement of the trigger is enough to unlatch the cylinder and it moves out of battery! To prove this theory, hold your gun so the light can come thru the bottom of the cylinder window. Put slight pressure on the trigger and observe the cylinder latch moving down. You will see how easy it is to unlatch the cylinder. Your advise of lighter loads is good or learn to pull the trigger thru to the trigger stop and then release! It is difficult to break bad habits! I have a 29-3 Silhouette that I have shot thousands of hot loads thru since 1985 but I have learned to handle the trigger!
jcelect

 

[Pantera Mike]

That’s an interesting theory. Except I have two Model 29s (the other is a 3-inch 629) and a 686 and have never had this problem even once with those, or any other guns....

I, too, think it’s probably a cylinder stop issue. There is a very reputable gunsmith near me and I am going to call him tomorrow. I’ll keep you posted!

And thanks to all!

 

[P.44]

From a few thousand miles away and without seeing/handle the revolver

...but I think, jcelect (post #16) is on the right track:
.500 S&W Double Taps - The Firearm BlogThe Firearm Blog

P.44

 

[Pantera Mike]

To reiterate, I fired this gun for years and had no problems, and then suddenly I did. I am also shooting an almost identical gun with the same ammo and have had no problems with it at all.

I failed to mention that two other people shot it and encountered the same malfunctions. Therefore I think it’s safe to eliminate shooter technique as a cause.

Thanks for the suggestion however—I do appreciate it!

 

[dr. mordo]

I personally would take the cylinder stop out in order to inspect and clean the entire interior of the gun thoroughly. (See the video below; I use Q tips instead of the brush, and I'd probly wipe it out with Hoppes 9 first) Then, if all looks normal, I'd reassemble using a Wolff regular strength replacement cylinder stop spring.

If you have any mechanical skill at all, disassembling and reassembling a S&W is easy.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ujyLn3lHBc[/ame]