Someone else posted these the other day, but I can't find the thread to credit the person who posted them. They are useful for threads like this. It appears that S&W's were designed to have a drag line long before the '70's.
I'd check for push off. Make sure the gun is empty, then close the cylinder and cock the gun. Now, without touching the trigger, try to push the hammer off of its cocking notch with firm thumb pressure. If you can do that, it will need action work. Many guys try to make the pull lighter/easier by improperly filing the sear engagement notch down either to far or at the wrong angle or both.
That is a serious safety issue that needs attention immediately. Either a new hammer needs to be installed (the way I'd go), or a GOOD gunsmith need to try to repair the damaged notch. The problem is that S&W hammers and triggers are case hardened to approximately .006" deep, and when someone messes with the notch, often times they go through that harder layer, so even if a gunsmith can repair the notch and make it work correctly again, the notch will be worn down/out in rather short order since the new notch will be into the softer inner metal.
This is a required step on all revolvers when buying used. I once rebuilt about 10 S&W K frames for a gun shop that a self proclaimed patrolman/gunsmith "slicked" up for the City PD. All 10 would push off.
A gun may look NIB but one can never be sure it hasn't been hacked inside.
Excellent point Gun 4 Fun.
I hear ya. I always check for push off, and every so often I'll find an otherwise really nice gun with no other issues with that condition. 9 out of 10 times it is on a target model gun of some sort that someone thought they could "slick up".![]()
As this was the original inquiry:Rick,
Many, many agree with you and absolutely nothing wrong with that on your own guns.
You're just in the wrong thread for you.
My comment was perfectly in line with this thread.What causes a turn line like this? Is it out of time or just used a lot?
Mike,
The gun's right is the same as your right. When you point the gun down range the right side of the cyl bolt is on the right. It's the high edge of the bolt.
I gave my logic for "breaking" the 'knife edge's' particularly on the right edge.
I have worse disagreements with some of the advice in his manuals than just this.
As most gunsmiths will tell you, they consider Kuhnhauser a writer, not a gunsmith. His manuals are very helpful if you know something, very little or nothing. Gunsmithing is a craft and an art form. There are more ways than one to do most things. Some better than others.
Hondo - thank you for pointing me in the right direction . Sometimes I can get too spicy with my choice of words . I really mean no harm and will strive to stay between the lines in my posts .
Everyone should know their limitations. We know some cannot even use a screwdriver properly either. Should we all stop using screwdrivers?
Neither edge should be chamfered or they would have come chamfered from S&W. And it's only the right edge that contacts the cyl and does the damage! You just need to 'break' the 'knife edge' on the right side.
Respectfully, a Smith & Wesson revolver cylinder rotates counterclockwise. Therefore the left edge of the cylinder stop is the leading edge. That is the edge cutting the line.
"Chamfered" was a very poor choice of words. Breaking the sharp edge is all that's needed. Further backing up my advice to leave the Dremel tool in its box for this application.
Just thought I would take the time to publicly thank Hondo for taking the time to share his knowledge on this forum,I have learned a LOT from you.
Just thought I would take the time to publicly thank Hondo for taking the time to share his knowledge on this forum,I have learned a LOT from you.
I already thanked Jim via PM but want to say "THANKS!" here as well.
Please note that I edited my original post after doing some research and reading Hondo's excellent explanation above.
Thank you both for your very kind remarks! I get concerned about these lengthy explanations putting people to sleep.
Thank you both for your very kind remarks! I get concerned about these lengthy explanations putting people to sleep.