Model 29 turn line

Someone else posted these the other day, but I can't find the thread to credit the person who posted them. They are useful for threads like this. It appears that S&W's were designed to have a drag line long before the '70's.
 

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I'd check for push off. Make sure the gun is empty, then close the cylinder and cock the gun. Now, without touching the trigger, try to push the hammer off of its cocking notch with firm thumb pressure. If you can do that, it will need action work. Many guys try to make the pull lighter/easier by improperly filing the sear engagement notch down either to far or at the wrong angle or both.

That is a serious safety issue that needs attention immediately. Either a new hammer needs to be installed (the way I'd go), or a GOOD gunsmith need to try to repair the damaged notch. The problem is that S&W hammers and triggers are case hardened to approximately .006" deep, and when someone messes with the notch, often times they go through that harder layer, so even if a gunsmith can repair the notch and make it work correctly again, the notch will be worn down/out in rather short order since the new notch will be into the softer inner metal.

This is a required step on all revolvers when buying used. I once rebuilt about 10 S&W K frames for a gun shop that a self proclaimed patrolman/gunsmith "slicked" up for the City PD. All 10 would push off.

A gun may look NIB but one can never be sure it hasn't been hacked inside.

Excellent point Gun 4 Fun.
 
This is a required step on all revolvers when buying used. I once rebuilt about 10 S&W K frames for a gun shop that a self proclaimed patrolman/gunsmith "slicked" up for the City PD. All 10 would push off.

A gun may look NIB but one can never be sure it hasn't been hacked inside.

Excellent point Gun 4 Fun.

I hear ya. I always check for push off, and every so often I'll find an otherwise really nice gun with no other issues with that condition. 9 out of 10 times it is on a target model gun of some sort that someone thought they could "slick up".:rolleyes:
 
I hear ya. I always check for push off, and every so often I'll find an otherwise really nice gun with no other issues with that condition. 9 out of 10 times it is on a target model gun of some sort that someone thought they could "slick up".:rolleyes:

I also check used rifles/shotguns by verifying they are empty, cock and rap the butt hard with my hand. It does PO the LGS owner when one goes CLICK but they eventually are glad it was found before it went out the door. I also wiggle the trigger and found one that would fire if pushed lightly sideways.

If folks will not take off the zip tie at a gun show I will always pass.

I started doing this after I bought a rifle, mounted a scope and took it out to zero it in. It did not do it each time but the first time it was pointed safely down range when I closed the bolt. KABOOM! Scared the daylights out of me. I don't remember if I adjusted the trigger or took it back to the gun shop. From that time on I rapped the butt.
 
Rick,

Many, many agree with you and absolutely nothing wrong with that on your own guns.

You're just in the wrong thread for you.
As this was the original inquiry:
What causes a turn line like this? Is it out of time or just used a lot?
My comment was perfectly in line with this thread.

While others offered good advice to reduce the appearance of the turn line, that was not the original inquiry, and the gun in question is obviously well past such advice, but I digress. Some good safety info was given nonetheless.
 
Rick glad to hear that.

And no matter how bad the turn line, it's never too late to polish the bolt. The line will only get worse, and faster if the bolt is not addressed.
 
Mike,

The gun's right is the same as your right. When you point the gun down range the right side of the cyl bolt is on the right. It's the high edge of the bolt.

I gave my logic for "breaking" the 'knife edge's' particularly on the right edge.

I have worse disagreements with some of the advice in his manuals than just this.

As most gunsmiths will tell you, they consider Kuhnhauser a writer, not a gunsmith. His manuals are very helpful if you know something, very little or nothing. Gunsmithing is a craft and an art form. There are more ways than one to do most things. Some better than others.

Hondo - thank you for pointing me in the right direction . Sometimes I can get too spicy with my choice of words . I really mean no harm and will strive to stay between the lines in my posts .
 
Hondo - thank you for pointing me in the right direction . Sometimes I can get too spicy with my choice of words . I really mean no harm and will strive to stay between the lines in my posts .

....and when driving.;):D:D
 
Everyone should know their limitations. We know some cannot even use a screwdriver properly either. Should we all stop using screwdrivers?

Neither edge should be chamfered or they would have come chamfered from S&W. And it's only the right edge that contacts the cyl and does the damage! You just need to 'break' the 'knife edge' on the right side.

Respectfully, a Smith & Wesson revolver cylinder rotates counterclockwise. Therefore the left edge of the cylinder stop is the leading edge. That is the edge cutting the line.

"Chamfered" was a very poor choice of words. Breaking the sharp edge is all that's needed. Further backing up my advice to leave the Dremel tool in its box for this application.
 
Respectfully, a Smith & Wesson revolver cylinder rotates counterclockwise. Therefore the left edge of the cylinder stop is the leading edge. That is the edge cutting the line.

"Chamfered" was a very poor choice of words. Breaking the sharp edge is all that's needed. Further backing up my advice to leave the Dremel tool in its box for this application.

Hi TinMan,

Recognize we're really splitting hairs here but I appreciate the opportunity to also respectfully disagree and explain why.

As we know, the Smith cyl lock bolt is centered in the frame and the upper surface is square (not slanted like a single action which uses an offset cyl bolt). Therefore the flat top surface of the DA bolt meets the cyl surface almost squarely. Almost because, considering the curvature of the cyl, technically only the center of the bolt's surface contacts the cyl. As you said, the cyl turns counter clockwise, and as you also correctly point out, the left edge is the leading edge. However there's more to this than may be immediately apparent.

The top surface of the bolt rubs against the cyl, not the left edge. That's why roughness or tool marks in the surface of the bolt does the line inscribing. The left bolt edge never has the opportunity to contact the cyl surface, certainly not by itself to cut into it.

So the leading left edge of the cyl bolt also encounters the cyl notch approach ramp first. The approach ramp is on an angle lower than the surface of the cyl, right? Therefore the left edge gets even farther from contact with the cyl as it enters the ramp. Then the center surface of the bolt loses contact as the right side half of the bolt surface rides over the edge into the ramp until, at the beginning edge of the ramp, the right edge alone makes contact with the cyl.

That's when a sharp right side edge of the bolt in contact by itself starts cutting at the entrance edge of the approach ramp and continues its cutting action all the way across the approach ramp, the bolt continuing to rise as it gets deeper until the right bolt edge slips over, cutting the right notch edge as it goes, finally popping up into the notch.

Hence the importance of breaking the knife edges of the bolt, but particularly the right side edge!

The fine abrasive wheel I advocate only for removing tool marks in the surface of the bolt which can be pretty rough, works very well in experienced hands and it's quicker; about 5 seconds. But never for breaking the sharp side edges. Another 5 seconds with the polishing wheel w/rough will give a mirror finish to the bolt surface and break the sharp side edges at the same time w/o ever focusing directly on the edges with any tool.

So I feel everyone is free to make their own choice of tool usage based on their own experience. If they feel more comfortable to do it by hand I don't tell them not to and I also don't tell them not to use a Dremel tool.

I hope that helps,
 
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Just thought I would take the time to publicly thank Hondo for taking the time to share his knowledge on this forum,I have learned a LOT from you.

I already thanked Jim via PM but want to say "THANKS!" here as well.

Please note that I edited my original post after doing some research and reading Hondo's excellent explanation above.
 
Just thought I would take the time to publicly thank Hondo for taking the time to share his knowledge on this forum,I have learned a LOT from you.

I already thanked Jim via PM but want to say "THANKS!" here as well.

Please note that I edited my original post after doing some research and reading Hondo's excellent explanation above.

Thank you both for your very kind remarks! I get concerned about these lengthy explanations putting people to sleep.
 
Thank you both for your very kind remarks! I get concerned about these lengthy explanations putting people to sleep.

Even if that were true (which it isn't IMO), I can't think of any better way to be put to sleep.:)
 
Thank you both for your very kind remarks! I get concerned about these lengthy explanations putting people to sleep.

You taking the time to explain things in depth and correctly is what sets you apart from the rest of the internet "experts.With each sentence you realize how much you actually know.
 
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