Model 34/63 Kit gun Ejector

[BoCash]

Howdy,

Been a while since my last visit.

Have been playing around with a model 34 cylinder and (almost) had it successfully fitted to a model 650.

I did some grinding to a new ejector rod and had the cylinder opening and closing as it should. Everything went well until I over-ground the ejector star..........the little raised contacts that are moved by the hand. At first, the cylinder would not turn at all because those protrusions were too wide. When I finished, 4 of the chambers would not quite go into locked battery. (live and learn, right?)

In the end, I ground them a little too much and the timing was ruined on 4 of the 6 chambers.

I have an option to start over with a new cylinder of either a 34 or a 63.............BUT................I see that Numrich
has "model 34/63" ejector stars for sale: "new style" and apparently "old style." I may come out better just getting an ejector without buying a whole cylinder assembly, and just pop it into the 34 cylinder I already have.

Knowing that this is going into a model 650, does old or new style matter?

And, what is the difference between new and old style ejectors:::: is it the way the face is cut?

Thanks so much in advance, Bo in western NC

 

[MygunisaS&Wrevolver]

I am no expert and I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I know its quite a job to fit a new extractor into a cylinder. Lots of precision stoning and doing very small amounts at a time and then working with a barrette file to get all of the ratchet surfaces equalized and properly fit to the hand. These J frame ratchet surfaces are small and should be worked with under magnification. This fitting must be consistant wth the proper headspace and barrel cylinder gap. If you have no experience with this, I would recommend finding a good gunsmith that works on Smiths or better yet sending it back to S&W.