Model 34 Kit gun - need some help-tips

[cmansguns]

Good morning Forum. Had my 1972 Model 34-1 out the other day for a nice plinking session..cans, spinners, flippers, old aluminum fire exit signage.

It was quite hot outside, but enjoyable..shooting slow, extractor star kept popping them out, no real drag, individual loading..just fun most of the day.

Brought a lot of bulk loose ammo with me of Win Super X. Probably 150 to 175 rounds downrange..trouble hit. Went to reload after 6 shots, all normal, no duds, no soft shots.

Couldn't easily get cylinder open, couldn't see any case/rim "tight" issues...then looked at ejector rod and could see approx. 1/8" of light metal (not blued) on the ejector rod where it enters into the yoke. Obviously the ejector rod had backed out (or "off" whichever term you prefer). So tightened by hand and everything worked fine for another couple cylinders, then again a little backout causing tight cylinder release.

Went home....the one picture is before any cleaning which looks like normal fouling and cleans up OK with normal cleaning.

I've heard about, but never personally experienced ejector rod loosening with shooting, but it seems always associated with big bore guns.

Have any of you experienced this with 22 rimfire?

Equally important is what to do about it...I am very familiar with Loctite, Red, Green. Red is a for sure no-no (cylindrical locker I've used on large roller bearing seats to permanently lock the outer race to a housing seat). Green is a small thread locker, but is still quite a bit of trouble. Hate to use any thread locker compound, but if there is no other way.

I was thinking maybe wrap the knurled portion to get a better grip and hand tighten as strong as I can. I don't see any buildup or residue under the star, and nothing is bent so just wondering if it was a fluke phenomena.

The grandkids (as well as me) love to shoot this gun, and I don't want it to happen to them during a shoot, as we are very strict about one shooter at the line, no kibbitzers around the shooters close proximity, and I just don't know if this could cause issues with live rounds still in the cylinder.

You thought, comments, opinions, and solutions would be very well appreciated.

 

[series guy]

There is a special tool that clamps to the ejector rod and gives you a bit more leverage for tightening. Always put some spent cartridges in the cylinder when doing this. There is also a purple loctite that would be good for this application. I have found that some guns seem to have a propensity for this issue and some guns are never a problem.

 

[.38SuperMan]

I have a 34-1 in nickel. I believe it was made about the same time as yours. I’ve experienced exactly the same issue. The ejector started unscrewing and made it difficult to open the cylinder.

Actually there’s a tool made to tighten the ejector. It’s a vice grip with jaws that fit the ejector perfectly. It took about two minutes to fix and haven’t had a problem since. I can’t remember the name but found it through a Google search.

I’d recommend getting the tool. I think it was around $29 and will prevent damaging or crushing the ejector. In my opinion it’s well worth the price.

Fowling has always been an issue especially with this revolver. I haven’t measured the cylinder gap but it’s pretty tight. After a few cylinders full of ammo like Thunderbolts the cylinder starts binding. Federal is cleaner and that’s what I typically use.

Edit: I seem to remember the threads are reversed.

These are great little fun guns, enjoy!

 

[VaTom]

Had it happen on my Model 63 (.22)) revolver. Thanks for the post and the replies.

 

[Hondo44]

There's nothing wrong with your gun. If the extractor rod unscrews, it simply isn't tightened to the factory level of tightness, usually because it was removed at some time after it left the factory and wasn't tightened enough. As posted above, the answer is the proper tool to properly tighten it! End of problem.

 

[stu1ritter]

If you have a drill press with a decent chuck, it works very well to tighten the ejector rod. I've done hundreds and never marred the finish.

Stu

 

[BC38]

My "special tools" for tightening ejector rods are
1) a 1" piece of leather cut off the end of an old belt
2) a pair of pliers
3) 5 or 6 empties in the right caliber
Never marred one, never had one loosen up after tightening it either

 

[Pisgah]

Every revolver ever made with a screw-in ejector rod is subject to the same potential problem. Nature of the beast. Simple fix, clean after every session, and check rod tightness frequently. If that's too much effort remove the rod, degrease the threads, put just the merest dab of blue LocTite on the threads, reassemble.

 

[Walter Rego]

I resist using Loctite on gun screws unless there is no other way to keep them tight. I would start by disassembling the cylinder, rod and ejector star. Clean them and then carefully clean and then degreasing the male threads on the rod and the female threads on the ejector and then snug them up good when reassembling using the methods described by others.
I'll bet they will stay snug.

 

[H Richard]

Often the usual cleaning over a period of time can get cleaning moisture into the threads. Then vibration from shooting loosens it up. Take the rod apart, spray with cleaner such as gunscrubber or brake & parts cleaner and get really dry, (blow out), then tighten up using method above with shells in the chambers and a clamp of device to get a good grip.

 

[wetdog]

Here is the tool.

 

[Housepuss]

The tool you are thinking of is called a "Vicesmith" and is carried by MidwayUSA & Gunsmithtools.com.
Midway sells it for $44.00. I've had one for years and it works very well, does the job it's designed to do.

 

[vinn]

just don't use locktight .it brakes down when heated.