Model 36-1 Value help

[JWWIII]

Hey guys looking for some help on this. Co-worker has a couple revolvers from his recently deceased father.

One is an old H&R 929 22LR 9 shot revolver. Looks like it might be worth $75-100.

The other is a Model 36-1 Square butt 1.875" barrel. The blue finish is pretty ugly, I'd estimate about 60% or more is worn/gone. Not really any pitting/rust concerns I could see. Lockup is good, no play etc. Can you give me an idea of fair value? Anything else I should look for if I consider buying it?

Wish I had pictures to show it but I don't.

 

[mkk41]

Hey guys looking for some help on this. Co-worker has a couple revolvers from his recently deceased father.

One is an old H&R 929 22LR 9 shot revolver. Looks like it might be worth $75-100.

The other is a Model 36-1 Square butt 1.875" barrel. The blue finish is pretty ugly, I'd estimate about 60% or more is worn/gone. Not really any pitting/rust concerns I could see. Lockup is good, no play etc. Can you give me an idea of fair value? Anything else I should look for if I consider buying it?

Wish I had pictures to show it but I don't.

Biggest downfall to square butt J's is the lack of decent grips. I'd say in the condition you describe , $275-300 retail.

 

[murphydog]

The model 36-1 should be a 3" heavy barrel version, so this one is either a mis-stamped one or its barrel has been changed out. If it is as ugly as you describe, but the bore/chambers are undamaged I would guess $250 at most.

 

[JWWIII]

The model 36-1 should be a 3" heavy barrel version, so this one is either a mis-stamped one or its barrel has been changed out. If it is as ugly as you describe, but the bore/chambers are undamaged I would guess $250 at most.

Why should it be a 3" barrel? Did they only make 3" for the 36-1 revision? Owner's son had the original permits from 1960's. It was clearly marked as model 36 with SN 6416XX Can anyone look that up for more info? Grips also have matching SN on them.

I did buy it. I paid $200 for both. He originally asked me for $50 each but the H&R from what I've read is not service-able and can't be repaired in all likely-hood. I told him $50 each was too low. Pictures will follow.


Thanks for the info guys.

 

[hotrod150]

The 3" heavy barrel is what differentiated the 36-1 from the 36. They were made concurrently from 1967 through 1987. Yours is from 1967 (beginning of the 36-1), 1968, or 1969 (last of the non-"J" serial numbers).

 

[steelslaver]

The barrel is measured from the front of the cylinder, not the front of the frame. But, that wouldn't be a inch on a J frame

 

[mkk41]

Mis-marked frames are nothing new.

 

[linde]

The model 36-1 should be a 3" heavy barrel version, so this one is either a mis-stamped one or its barrel has been changed out. If it is as ugly as you describe, but the bore/chambers are undamaged I would guess $250 at most.

Why should it be a 3" barrel? Did they only make 3" for the 36-1 revision? . . . It was clearly marked as model 36 with SN 6416XX Can anyone look that up for more info? . . .

The Model 36-1 with the 3" heavy barrel was actually introduced in September 1966 but the 36 (no dash) with 2" and 3" tapered barrels continued in production until 1988 when the new yoke retention system was introduced on the 36-2 (2" & 3" tapered) and 36-3 (3" heavy).

Your Model 36 with s/n 6416XX was likely made in 1968

They're great guns . . . congratulations . . . and enjoy,

Russ

 

[JWWIII]

The Model 36-1 with the 3" heavy barrel was actually introduced in September 1966 but the 36 (no dash) with 2" and 3" tapered barrels continued in production until 1988 when the new yoke retention system was introduced on the 36-2 (2" & 3" tapered) and 36-3 (3" heavy).

Your Model 36 with s/n 6416XX was likely made in 1968

They're great guns . . . congratulations . . . and enjoy,

Russ

Russ you are good. The very old purchase permit was dated 5/23/1968!

So the series on the Model 36 was not production wide like the other S&W models? I thought the dash numbers indicated revisions across the line for S&W? My crane is marked Mod 36-1 and I'm pretty certain it was not re-barreled.

Thanks for the info. Any input on how to clean it up? I've never seen a firearm in this condition in person before, let alone cleaned one up. I removed the side plate, found some mild rust that I was able to clean up nicely. Oiled the internals to keep the rust out. Cleaned it with Gun Scrubber and a toothbrush. It looks better. Would a light polish harm the blue further?

 

[JP@AK]

So the series on the Model 36 was not production wide like the other S&W models? I thought the dash numbers indicated revisions across the line for S&W?

They did the same thing on the Model 10. One dash number for the tapered barrel and a different one for the heavy barrel. Examples:
Model 10-4 (tapered barrel); Model 10-6 (heavy barrel) change in the cylinder stop, eliminating the trigger guard screw. [the Model 10-5 denoted a sight width change on the tapered barrel variant]
Model 10-7 (tapered barrel); Model 10-8 (heavy barrel) change to the gas ring location.
Etc.
Jack

 

[linde]

. . . Any input on how to clean it up? I've never seen a firearm in this condition in person before, let alone cleaned one up. I removed the side plate, found some mild rust that I was able to clean up nicely. Oiled the internals to keep the rust out. Cleaned it with Gun Scrubber and a toothbrush. It looks better. Would a light polish harm the blue further?

Cleaning and stopping the rust are your first priorities . . . and what you've done so far sounds good.

There are several good commercial products on the market for the job. I've never used Gun Scrubber so can't comment. I have had success with Kroil penetrating oil to dissolve the current crud and rust scale. Others have had success with ATF (automatic transmission fluid) for soaking entire guns . . . a lot cheaper than a tub of Kroil. And then there's always diesel fuel for a field expedient.

Once you've got the crud off and the rust under control, I've had success with a product called Corrosion-X to treat the metal in those areas that were affected . . . or the entire gun for that matter. A repeated application of any good quality gun oil will also be an effective treatment.

Not sure what you had in mind for a "light polish" but others have reported that products like Mother's Mag Polish and Flitz will take the blueing off if not used very sparingly and with a light touch. I haven't tried it so you'll have to be the judge if it works in your case.

Always glad to see a fine Smith receiving some much-deserved TLC . . . and it sounds like it's in good hands.

Best wishes,

Russ

 

[linde]

. . . The other is a Model 36-1 Square butt 1.875" barrel. . . . Wish I had pictures to show it but I don't.

The model 36-1 should be a 3" heavy barrel version, so this one is either a mis-stamped one or its barrel has been changed out.

We still haven't reconciled the discrepency of a 36-1 with a 2" barrel. When you are able to post pictures, please include one that shows the model stamping and the barrel.

The early 36-1s had a -1 that looks like an afterthought . . . probably a previously-stamped MOD 36 frame that was picked for the 3" heavy barrel application. In other cases, I've seen a variety of assembly numbers as well as inspector or fitter marks that are sometimes mistakenly assumed to be part of the model designation.

Russ

 

[JWWIII]

Here's some pics of both revolvers

The lighting in my basement sucks and I only have my cell phone for pics right now.

I can say the -1 does look like it might have been stamped in a different font or size so maybe the -1 was added as noted in a post above.

You can see the wear on the finish in a few pics. The cylinder exterior is the worst part but the chambers in it look very good as well as the barrel. I'd guess owner cleaned it before it got put away and the basement it was in was real damp/humid.

 

[Road Rat]

Okay JWWIII

I agree with you.................a photographer - you ain't!!

But you do know how to post them!! Congrats on the new toys..