Model 36 advice

[smithman 10]

So I happened upon a fairly nice 36 at a reasonable price and I bought it. Serial nr. 778528, appears to put it about 1968-9 manufacture date I think.

Just to stir the pot one more time, since most all of the ammo I have other than my puny wad cutter reloads is .38+P. am I gonna blow my hand off if I should fire some +P through it?

Please excuse my hyperbole but I mean seriously, I don't intend to shoot round after round of +P through it, but if I carry it, why not use something with some oomph? Might add I've never have had to fire a carry gun in a serious social encounter so far and the likelihood in my environs that I ever will seems about nil to me. But if I had to...

BTW, I am 77, I'm not gonna wear the piece out. I bought it cause I liked the idea of having a revolver like Lenny's (Jerry Ohrbach) on all the Law and Order re-runs my wife and I watch. I've been toting it around with some 148 grain wad cutters for the time being.

Sorry no photo but you know what it looks like, Just a bit of cosmetic wear but tight as a drum, times up right, decent trigger. Certainly hasn't been fired much.

Thanks for any input and now it's time to slip it into my Mika pocket holster and take the dog for her evening stroll! Loaded with the previously mentioned wad cutters, of course.

 

[19leben]

You can shoot +P in your 36, but it won't be any fun, and maybe a little painful. It'd be fine for carry.

 

[sigp220.45]

You can shoot all the +P through your gun you want. It won’t hurt it or wear it out prematurely at all.

I had to qualify with my Model 36 four times a year with +P+ 147 grain Hydra-Shoks. No problems at all.

+P is just not that hot.

 

[alwslate]

Factory +P ammo from the major US manufacturers is probably barely above the standard pressure limit of 17,000 psi. Also the typical 125 gr JHPs at about 860 fps are not going to expand or penetrate very deep. But if you feel better with them in your gun go ahead and use them. Recoil is snappy in a J frame with anything other than squibs. You would have to fire a lot of factory +Ps to loosen up your 36.

 

[smithman 10]

Thanks

To all for your answers. I thought that's what I would hear. Having launched +P out of airweights (442, 642) I doubt the recoil will be any problem.

 

[robertrwalsh]

It is likely to be much harder on your hand than on the gun. You and I am in the same age bracket and the old lunch-hooks just don't like being slammed that much any more.

 

[StrawHat]

I carried either a Model 36 or later a Model 36-1. I had a grip adapter on both to make it more controllable. =P is what I carried for years, until I spoke with three different coroners. They also carried 38 S&W Special revolvers but all three kept them load with target wadcutters. Why? The autopsy table said they were the best.

Kevin

 

[MajorD]

While I agree plus p won’t hurt a thing, no need. The best balance between various factors- power, penetration, recoil manageability point of impact ease of supply relativey low cost etc, is the humble wadcutter.

Golden rule with snubs
If it expands it will not penetrate
If it penetrate It will not expand

 

[stansdds]

The Model 36 is an all-steel J-frame with a model number, not just a name. Per S&W, +P is safe in all-steel J- and K-frames that have a model number stamped into the frame's crane recess. Being all-steel, +P 38 Special will recoil a little more than standard pressure loads, but it is far from being abusive to the revolver or the shooter. Given the way the major U.S. ammo manufacturers have gone with 38 Special, their +P loads tend to be barely higher pressure/velocity than their standard loads. Now if you were to use something like Buffalo Bore's +P ammo, it will recoil more as that is truly +P ammo.

 

[alwslate]

No, S&W does not say that any model marked steel J frame is OK for +P ammo. This incorrect information continues to be posted here. That doesn't mean that factory +Ps are going to blow up your gun. Just S&W's recommendations as all +P is not alike I suppose.

 

[pasound]

The first +P that S&W printed on my revolvers was 38+P on my 637 Airweight. I'd trust +P in my stainless 60 no-dash and blued 36, but maybe not on on my 38 Airweight.

 

[Birdhunter6]

In my experience, +P in steel frame Js works fine. When the grips fit my hands there is no discomfort innvolved.

 

[Sgt. Buzzard]

Get yourself some Underwood 150gr. Wadcutters. Be happy. Be safe.

 

[Birdgun]

In my experience, +P in steel frame Js works fine. When the grips fit my hands there is no discomfort innvolved.

I agree the Birdhunter6, grips make a big difference. I swapped out my factory grips for Altamont Boot Grips and I noticed a marked improvement in both my shot groups and felt recoil. The Boot Grips don't change the profile of the revolver and can be carried comfortably in the pocket.

S&W Model 36 in 38 Special with Altamont Boot Grips.

God bless,
John T.

 

[rct269]

You can shoot all the +P through your gun you want. It won’t hurt it or wear it out prematurely at all.

I had to qualify with my Model 36 four times a year with +P+ 147 grain Hydra-Shoks. No problems at all.

+P is just not that hot.

So how hot is it---and how hot was it----before it wasn't?

Well, in the beginning (1925 in my case because I don't have any data for earlier), the muzzle velocity of the regular, everyday 158 grain load was 858 fps.

When it wasn't (like today) the same load comes out at 755 fps. (I know neither when it was downloaded nor why---but I have some sneaky suspicions.)

So, we have today's load at 755 fps ----AND we have today's +P load at 890 fps ----A noteworthy improvement you say? Compared to what? I'll ask!!

At this point, I'll ask you to do the math---and tell me how hot is today's +P compared to "the good old days"? Not hardly, right? You figure these hot loads are going to hurt any gun ever made? Not hardly, right?

So what's this +P business all about? It's about business---and business is about making money----and the rule there is "Some's good, more's better, and too much is just right!!" Well how did it happen? It happened pretty much like this: The ammo companies took note of a very large and sustained increase in the numbers of carry permits being issued across the country. Then they sat and stared at the wall for a bit, made an appointment to see the Big Boss Man and said, "You know what? I'll bet we could make a ton of money if we came out with a souped up load for these newly minted gunfighters, gave it a catchy name, and charged more for it! And then the big boss man said, "I sure am glad I thought of that!!"

And that's the way it happened----pretty much. Another thing that happened was the Big Boss Man told them not to get carried away with these souped up loads, because the VERY LAST THING he wanted to see----or even hear about was a bunch of pesky Lawyers with a bunch of papers in their hands showing up at the front gate----with BIG dollar signs in their beady little eyes!!

Ralph Tremaine

As an aside, remember the 38/44 load from the 1930's? It came out at something like 1100fps---and S&W told the folks they didn't "recommend" using them in regular, everyday .38 Special revolvers. You reckon that might have been because they wanted the folks to buy the new 38/44 Heavy Duty---or the Outdoorsman---those made especially for the 38/44 loads? I reckon they made those recommendations so the folks would buy the new guns----pretty much like today when they want you to buy a new gun "Rated For +P".

Oh yeah! I gotta get one of those---maybe two or three!!

It's pretty much like fishing tackle. I reckon most folks might tell you fishing tackle is made to catch fish. I'll tell you fishing tackle is made to sell to fishermen----and fisherwomen.

 

[stansdds]

I agree the Birdhunter6, grips make a big difference. I swapped out my factory grips for Altamont Boot Grips and I noticed a marked improvement in both my shot groups and felt recoil. The Boot Grips don't change the profile of the revolver and can be carried comfortably in the pocket.

S&W Model 36 in 38 Special with Altamont Boot Grips.




God bless,
John T.

I have a set of Uncle Mike's rubber Boot Grips on my 640-1, yes, the boot grip design makes the J-frame controllable and more comfortable while maintaining concealability. Sadly, Uncle Mike's is no longer licensed to make the rubber boot grip, so when my disintegrate or get too gummy, I'll go with wooden boot grips.