Model 36 Cylinder Latch Question

[squid8286]

I just bought a 1970-era Chief's Special as a carry revolver. Tight action on the thing, but I noticed one weird thing about it. The cylinder is hard to get unlatched on a couple of the 5 holes in the cylinder. I checked the ejector rod (which was a bit loose) and tightened it as much as I could by hand, but there are still two of the five holes that are harder to get unlatched than the other three. Just more resistance on those two. The other three are pretty normal. I can't see or feel any burs on the part of the cylinder that the hand hits as it comes out of the back of the frame. Not a huge deal, but I thought it was sort of weird. Any ideas on this?

 

[armorer951]

Perhaps it's suffering from end shake. If it has been shot some, there may be excessive end shake on the cylinder, (more than .001") which could cause the ejector rod to bind on the front locking lug when opening and closing.

Run out on the ejector rod can also cause this type of binding.

 

[squid8286]

No end shake. No rotational play. Gun is nearly brand new mechanically.

 

[gmarshall99]

Bent Crane?

 

[robertrwalsh]

The classic cause for this situation is either a tweaked crane or a bent ejector rod.

 

[WR Moore]

Is the end of the ejector rod square? Does the center pin protrude slightly when the breech end is flush with the ratchet?

 

[Vtgw938]

I can't diagnose your problem but I have found difficulty opening, especially if only on a couple chambers is usually the ejector rod that is out of square on the knurling end. I have touched up the end of the rod on many of my revolvers to get the smooth opening and closing that I want. Go slow and look for improvement as you go to be confident that is the issue.

 

[steelslaver]

First open the cylinder part way so there is a bit of a gap between rod and barrel then turn the cylinder while looking at the ejector rod to see if it wobbles. Then, use something to press the tip of center pin flush with the center of ratchet and check that other end of center pin is flush or slightly protruding from tip of rod, Is tip of rod smooth, take about a 3/16 drill bit and press it in the hole in tip of rod and twirl it between your fingers to give the inside edges a tiny bevel. Also hit the lug under barrel with brake cleaner and work it a bit, then give it a touch of oil. It is something that often gets cleaned, yet is fairly exposed to the elements

 

[squid8286]

Bent Crane?

I don't see any evidence of the crane being bent or twisted in any way.

 

[squid8286]

First open the cylinder part way so there is a bit of a gap between rod and barrel then turn the cylinder while looking at the ejector rod to see if it wobbles. Then, use something to press the tip of center pin flush with the center of ratchet and check that other end of center pin is flush or slightly protruding from tip of rod, Is tip of rod smooth, take about a 3/16 drill bit and press it in the hole in tip of rod and twirl it between your fingers to give the inside edges a tiny bevel. Also hit the lug under barrel with brake cleaner and work it a bit, then give it a touch of oil. It is something that often gets cleaned, yet is fairly exposed to the elements

This makes sense. The inside piece of the muzzle end of the ejector rod looks a little uneven. But wouldn't twirling a drill bit a few times on the inside of the front of the rod make it lower in the center? If I am understanding you correctly, you just want to even it out, correct? I can't do it at the moment anyway, as I can't find my drill bits!

 

[WR Moore]

The engagement end of the locking bolt is tapered. The hole in the forward end of the ejector rod is supposed to have a centered, matching internal bevel. Sometimes they don't.

The end of the ejector rod is supposed to be square with the length. The center pin hole is supposed to have a tapered counter bore. Not all do.

Just to be thorough, with the cylinder open, look at the breech face/recoil shield. In the center you'll see the hole where the center pin goes when the cylinder is closed. The bolt (part that pushes on the center pin) should be at least level with the recoil shield. Since your problem is sporadic, it probably is, but check it anyway.

 

[squid8286]

Should the bevel on the inner piece of the ejector rod in the center be visible to the naked eye? It doesn't look beveled. May be, but I don't see it.

 

[WR Moore]

If you're talking about the bevel in the bore of the end of the ejector rod, it should be visible. Might not be much, maybe 1/32 in or so.

 

[squid8286]

OK, I just disassembled the cylinder after removing it from the frame and yolk and reassembled it again. I don't know why, but it is noticeably easier to unlock that particular spot on the cylinder now. I don't know what it is/was. It is still a little bit sticky on that one spot, but not nearly as bad as it was. I think I am going to leave it alone. This is a nice little revolver, and I don't want to damage it. Thanks for everybody's thoughts/input. It is appreciated!

 

[WR Moore]

Yep. What you're calling the detent is the locking bolt in S&W speak.

 

[squid8286]

One last question. What is the best way to lock the ejector rod into the threads in the extractor star? I don't want to booger up the knurled area in the front of it.

 

[WR Moore]

OK, if you're going to mess with the ejector rod, not really a decent idea if it's tight, you need to have 2 or 3 spent cases in chambers to keep the extractor in place without stressing the alignment widgets. You can bevel the inside of the rod end by hand. DON'T USE A DRILL!

If the gun has a model #, yours does, the threads are left hand threads. Counter clockwise to tighten, clockwise to loosen.

While there are various tools to grasp the ejector rod, Brownell's has a couple. Go to a bowling alley and get a bag of rosin to apply to the rod body too. I lock the spindle on my lathe and use the chuck to hold the rod. Lacking lathe or drill press, you might use the chuck of an electric drill and then hold the chuck with your hand. DON'T PLUG THE DRILL IN!!!! The rod should be firmly tight, you don't need/want to over torque it.

Brownell's also has a screwdriver with interchangeable bits especially made for S&Ws. Get one.

 

[squid8286]

OK, if you're going to mess with the ejector rod, not really a decent idea if it's tight, you need to have 2 or 3 spent cases in chambers to keep the extractor in place without stressing the alignment widgets. You can bevel the inside of the rod end by hand. DON'T USE A DRILL!

If the gun has a model #, yours does, the threads are left hand threads. Counter clockwise to tighten, clockwise to loosen.

While there are various tools to grasp the ejector rod, Brownell's has a couple. Go to a bowling alley and get a bag of rosin to apply to the rod body too. I lock the spindle on my lathe and use the chuck to hold the rod. Lacking lathe or drill press, you might use the chuck of an electric drill and then hold the chuck with your hand. DON'T PLUG THE DRILL IN!!!! The rod should be firmly tight, you don't need/want to over torque it.

Brownell's also has a screwdriver with interchangeable bits especially made for S&Ws. Get one.

Thank you.