Model 36 recommendations needed

[TexasSnubby]

Hey guys and gals. New to the forum here. For the longest, I have been trying to get a buddy of mine to sell me his snub nose 38 special model 36, no dash. He finally gave in and parted with it. I am very pleased to have this gun. Now, this is no gun that is been sitting away in a drawer for years and years. This gun appears to have been actively carried and used much over the many years. He assured me it is mechanically sound. It does have a bit of wear of the blueing and a few minor dings, but it appears to be in fairly decent condition with original stocks. For this, I am satisfied with the $200 price I paid for it. Based on the serial number of 362xxx, I have determined the gun to be 1962-63. I would appreciate some advice and recommendations from some of you experts here. Pointing me to some articles and/or tutorials would be great.

First, since it is a newly acquired used gun, should I remove the side plate for inspection and lubing. This is not a collectors gun for me, so I'm not overly concerned about scratching or dinging, although I would like to avoid that. What is the best method if so? Also, what are the recommended lubes for this type of gun?

I would like to restore the grips somewhat. Not necessarily a full restoration. Mainly a cleanup and refinish. Are the grips stained with a certain color from the factory? What are the cleaning and finishing recommendations?

Holsters? I would like a compact but trustworthy holster for this piece. Preferably something that is designed to the gun so that it will be as compact as possible. Some links will be greatly appreciated.

Lastly, I would like some ammo recommendations for this specific model that would be the most effective for personal protection and that will not cause any damage to the gun. Thanks to all who reply.


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[Old cop]

First, I would not remove the sideplate unless you suspect something is amiss. I'm not mechanically inclined (you may be) and if something goes wrong I send mine to a qualified gunsmith, but that's just me.

Ammo; use any standard pressure .38 spl. and you'll be fine. There is a wide variety of self defense and range ammo out there but again I'd avoid +P in a gun that old. Buffalo Bore offers a very good self defense round in the heavy 158 grain hollow point that is standard pressure. These guns were made for the 158 grain load and that's what I use in mine.

The grips can be refinished using some mid grade steel wool to remove any existing finish then use a walnut (or other) stain.

Holsters are a matter of personal preference and comfort. Most carry these small guns IWB or in a pocket, both are my choices. A belt holster should hug your hip so the cover garment does not allow the butt to print (e.g.; show). I use a Galco pocket holster and an old belt clip IWB holster that is so worn the brand name is long gone, but it's made of a thin and soft suede material.

Good luck. I'm sure others will weigh in w/more sage advise.

 

[Flint Ridge]

You need to wander over to the smithing area.

Link to refinishing grips, but you may want to freshen the checkering. http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/129174-how-grip-stocks-refinishing-photos-finished.html

There is are tricks to removing the sideplate, best with the right screwdrivers and no prying. Seems like there is a link on here for that too.

For a detail strip look down to post #7 here, includes sideplate removal. http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/94072-faqs.html

 

[BC38]

BTW, I'll be the first to mention that for $200 you practically stole that one! A shooter grade model 36 seems to worth $300+ if it just locks up, cycles, and times correctly. That one looks like it is better than just shooter grade. The turn line isn't even all that pronounced.

I got one in really good shape for $300 and that was at least $100 less than it is worth.

I use an old Eubanks leather belt holster, and an IWB nylon Desantis for packing mine. The little J's are great guns.

Depending on your sensitivity to recoil and the size of your hands you may find that you want to set the stock grips aside and install some Uncle Mike's boot grips, or Pachmyr compacts, or Hogues Bantams. Any of these will give a little more of a hand-filling grip and reduce the felt recoil, without reducing its concealability.

 

[Engine49guy]

A Model 36 for $200 is a deal if mechanically sound,

Not sure if its an optical illusion but it looks like your trigger guard is bent , Does the trigger contact the trigger guard ?

 

[george_lehr]

You did very well. I paid over $400.00 for my model 36.
I've had good luck refinishing stocks using sandpaper (180 and 400) to remove the old finish and lighten up the wood. I sealed them with Minwax Antique Oil Finish. It darkens the wood somewhat and a couple coats per the directions gives a not-too-shiny finish. I don't like really glossy stocks.
There is a world of stocks out there and you might want to look for some so-called S&W banana stocks. I have some smooth ones and one checkered set. They provide a larger more usable grip for me.
I can carry the 36 easily with a Remora IWB holster in the front of my jeans (appendix carry). The Remora holster works as advertised and is a bargain. Here's a link to a video on them:
Remora No-Clip IWB Holster - review & demo - YouTube
Shooting +P in the model 36 is not really comfortable. I'd stick with the above recommendations.

 

[TexasSnubby]

Thanks for the replies, tips, links, suggestions, and recommendations guys. I also hit the gunsmithing section hard and picked up a bit more knowledge. I decided not to remove the side plate until there is a need to. I did remove the grips and give the gun a good cleaning. I found the grips to be too old and fragile to bother reconditioning them. I have decide to order me a set of Pachmayr compact grips, along with a Remora IWB holster. I am planning on getting some 158gr hollow points and semi-wadcutters both to try out. I'm a little surprised at the value suggestions of the gun. Me and my buddy had no idea of a true value range, but considering it is an old S&W 38 Special, we figured it to have some decent value. I think he actually wanted a bit more, but seemed to be anxious for some cash, so he jumped on the $200 I had offered. Thanks again for the leads guys.

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[TexasSnubby]

A Model 36 for $200 is a deal if mechanically sound,

Not sure if its an optical illusion but it looks like your trigger guard is bent , Does the trigger contact the trigger guard ?

You have a keen eye sir. That was a flaw I noted when I took possession of the gun. It must have slipped out of one of the previous owner's pockets and landed on the trigger guard. There is indication of a slight rub. I have already corrected this by spreading the guard out. I'm not sure exactly what the clearance of the trigger should be, but I have set it at around 3/64".

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[hotrod150]

A Model 36 for $200 is a deal if mechanically sound.
Not sure if its an optical illusion but it looks like your trigger guard is bent .......

Not a deal, it was a STEAL. The best price I ever paid for a M36 (and I've bought several) was $300 each for two different finish-challenged shooter grades.
With the flat latch & diamond magnas, yours appears to be a pre-1966 gun. You might wanna post the serial number (located on the butt) so we can give you an approx ship date. X out the last two digits for privacy.
Don't deep-six those grips-- the (pre-1968) diamond magnas are in demand and so they do have some value.

 

[TexasSnubby]

Not a deal, it was a STEAL. The best price I ever paid for a M36 (and I've bought several) was $300 each for two different finish-challenged shooter grades.
With the flat latch & diamond magnas, yours appears to be a pre-1966 gun. You might wanna post the serial number (located on the butt) so we can give you an approx ship date. X out the last two digits for privacy.
Don't deep-six those grips-- the (pre-1968) diamond magnas are in demand and so they do have some value.

Thanks man. I posted part of the serial number in the op. Minus the last two digits, it is 3628xx. Based on what I have been reading here, I suspect it is 1962-63. I have been trying to decide if I should send for a letter. It would be kind of cool to know some history of the gun, even if it is just whom the first owner was, $50 seems kind of steep for that info though.

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[flagman1776]

Bianchi
IWB 3S Pistol Pocket
OWB 5BHL

 

[TexasSnubby]

Bianchi
IWB 3S Pistol Pocket
OWB 5BHL

Thanks. I am specifically looking for in the pocket concealment and the Bianchi Model 152 looks really nice. It even has that made to fit I am looking for.

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[hotrod150]

SCSW is pretty vague in this case:
1962 295000
1969 786544
I'm too lazy to do the math right now but you can probably come pretty close by extrapolating.

 

[JSR III]

That is a very nice model 36 and the price was very good. Remember that private sales between friends often reflect a lower number than an internet or LGS price. I would remove the stocks and clean them gently with a brass brush. Clean the gun, removing all crud and oil (0000 copper wool works well) and then apply a coat of Renaissance wax to gun and stocks. The wax keeps the moisture away and as we all know, moisture and metal don't play nice together.

When I carried my Chief Special, I liked using a shoulder holster and standard loads with a nice JHP and that worked fine for me. I never had to test them out but I certainly felt safer knowing that they were there.

I have since switched to a model 59 with a 14 round mag. I have supplemented failing eyesight with capacity.

 

[O2Guy]

I pocket carry my 36 in a Mika pocket holster, a holster that I would recommend to everyone.