I recently purchased a used model 38-1, I think a late 80's or early 90's vintage. I did a brief inspection at the time of purchase and besides some minor wear on the frame it looked alright to me. Once I got it home I looked closer and noticed that there is a gap between the frame and yoke when pressure is applied to the right side of the cylinder when it is closed. When the trigger is pulled and held to the rear the cylinder seems to lock up pretty tightly. How bad off am I?
Model 38-1 Frame/Yoke Gap
- Thread starter hamock
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I recently purchased a used model 38-1, I think a late 80's or early 90's vintage. I did a brief inspection at the time of purchase and besides some minor wear on the frame it looked alright to me. Once I got it home I looked closer and noticed that there is a gap between the frame and yoke when pressure is applied to the right side of the cylinder when it is closed. When the trigger is pulled and held to the rear the cylinder seems to lock up pretty tightly. How bad off am I?
Bullseye Smith
Member
Hamock pictures would make it easier to give you a answer, other wise we will be guessing about the right answer.
Yes, If you have any gunsmithing knowledge you can do it. I ordered a new locking bolt for a model 60, that had the same problem as yours. It needs to be fitted. So if you dont think you can fit it, I would have a gunsmith or S&W fix it for you.
OK, here are the picks. Tell me what you think.
Cylinder/Yoke gap without pressure
Cylinder/Yoke gap with thumb pressure on right
Ejector Rod without pressure
Ejector Rod with pressure. I know it doesn't look like much but it feels loose.
Thanks, Ham
Cylinder/Yoke gap without pressure
Cylinder/Yoke gap with thumb pressure on right
Ejector Rod without pressure
Ejector Rod with pressure. I know it doesn't look like much but it feels loose.
Thanks, Ham
I am wondering about the crane, That is a part that you cannot buy from S&W, It is a hand fit part, and I dont like that the finish on the crane appears different,,, I am wondering if it had been replaced at one time???
Something just doesnt look right to me,
Peter.
Something just doesnt look right to me,
Peter.
pred, the crane is blued steel and the frame is anodized aluminum. That's why the finish doesn't match. It doesn't look quite so bad in person.
allglock, do you know how I would go about getting the locking bolt replaced. Very dissappointed with the local gunsmith. Should it be sent back to S&W? Do you know where I would start on something like that? Also, thanks for the kind words about the pictures. I figure if I take a bunch a couple have to turn out OK.
allglock, do you know how I would go about getting the locking bolt replaced. Very dissappointed with the local gunsmith. Should it be sent back to S&W? Do you know where I would start on something like that? Also, thanks for the kind words about the pictures. I figure if I take a bunch a couple have to turn out OK.
john traveler
Member
Hamock,
Has the extractor rod and cylinder been removed from the frame? It it has, you may be missing the extractor rod collar (a spacer) that makes the extractor rod stick out further. Your pictures show that the locking bolt (spring-loaded plunger inside the barrel lug) does not engage the end of the extractor rod. That would certainly explain the looseness.
One last item to look at: Is the barrel loose on the frame? I hope not. That would indicate more serious problems than a missing extractor collar.
Has the extractor rod and cylinder been removed from the frame? It it has, you may be missing the extractor rod collar (a spacer) that makes the extractor rod stick out further. Your pictures show that the locking bolt (spring-loaded plunger inside the barrel lug) does not engage the end of the extractor rod. That would certainly explain the looseness.
One last item to look at: Is the barrel loose on the frame? I hope not. That would indicate more serious problems than a missing extractor collar.
