Model 38 Airweight???

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JayFramer

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Guy here local has what he is calling a Model 38 in "nickel" or so he says. Now to me, it looks like a Model 638 because it says "airweight" right on the side. I messaged the seller and he said no, it's a Model 38 with nickel finish.

So can someone tell me what is going on? Is this some kind of pre Model 638 or something? Reason I ask is because it's a no-lock gun and I have wanted a no-lock 638 for years. This looks like basically the exact same thing.

Just wondering gang, please help! Thanks! :)
 
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The M-38 was made in both, blue and nickel. Have him send you a picture of the number under the crane and also ask if the cylinder or frame have the initial N stamped under barrel or back of cylinder or under grips, etc.
 
If it is a Model 38, it is an Airweight. If he says it's nickel, it probably is. Not sure I understand exactly why you doubt him, but it sounds like you are basing it on misinformation.
 
Thanks guys. So what makes it different from a Model 642? The nickel vs stainless?
 
642 is an aluminum frame hammerless Centennial,don't come nickel and have stainless cylinder and barrel.
38 is an aluminum frame, shrouded hammer,nickel or blued finish,steel cylinder and barrel.

A 49 is the same as a 38..but steel frame.
A 649 is a stainless steel version of the 49.(in a nutshell)
 
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I had a nickel 38 some years back. I did not know the history of the gun as I bought it used, but it appeared new and was possibly unfired. In the first 100 rounds, using factory equivalent standard pressure handloads, the frame cracked in the usual place where frame cracks occur, just under the barrel threads.

I realize there will likely be responses here where others have put many +P rounds through their older alloy J-frames without mishap; I don't question their claims. I've been shooting steel and alloy J-frame guns since 1970 and have had plenty of each. If you intend to shoot very much, a steel J-frame is a far better choice and it's easier and more comfortable to shoot.
 
Thanks, yes I meant "638" in my last post!

I have always pined for a 638 for CCW use. I want to put a set of wood service stocks on it with Tyler-Ts. Classy. I did not know the Model 38s had frame cracking issues. I never experienced this with my Model 642 (since traded off). I suppose the older Model 38s were not as durable as the new 638s? But S&W does not offer the new 638s without a lock. I cannot do the lock, sorry, I'm one of those guys. :o

So this Model 38 nickel is about as close to a no lock 638 as I'll get. I also like the normal blued Model 38, but like the silver looking one better. I just wish S&W would offer the 638 without a lock. They already do with the 642 and several other J-frames, I never got why they didn't do it with the 638.
 
There actually was a pre IL Model 638 Airweight offered between 1989 and 2001.

S&W Model numbers are a bit bizaar, the original J snubs had names until S&W changed to the two digit numbers like Model 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 40, 42 etc., The first production SS S&W was introduced as the Model 60,

In the early 80's the number 6 was added to the beginning of certain models to denote a SS version such as the Model 649 (ss version of the Model 49) Model 640 (SS version of the Model 40) etc. and the number 4 was added to some models to denote blue or nickel on carbon steel .
 
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I've heard reports of cracks from all of the Aluminum frame Airweights.

37, 38, 638, 637, 642. et. al. -- even Model 12's which are K frames.

But that said, not a high percentage crack.

Many go for decades and work just fine with no cracks.
 
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Got my flat latch (no dash) M38 second hand in the early '70s as a back-up to my issued Model 15. I still have it but carry my 340M&P so the M38 sits in the safe. Some call them ugly hump backs but I like the look.
 
JayFramer said:
.... I just wish S&W would offer the 638 without a lock. They already do with the 642 and several other J-frames, I never got why they didn't do it with the 638.
Click to expand...
Of current production only Centennial frame guns are made without the lock. Any revolver were you can SEE the hammer will always have the lock.
 
Hi JayFramer:

I'm a real "humpback" fan. My EDC consists of a Model 38-0 and a Model 638-1. The Model 38-0 has a nickeled cylinder from a donor Model 38-0 to create my version of a MSP Bodyguard after I failed to find an affordable one that was in good shape. I also have a Model 649-0 (lower revolver, photo 1). They're out there, sometimes, you just have to be in the right place at the right time. The Model 38-0 was purchased off of an on-line auction site. The Model 638-1 was purchased off of a local gun board. The Model 649-0 was purchased off of this Forum and came with the original box, documents, grips and tools. I don't think I paid more than $350.00 for anyone of these revolvers.

Good luck,

Dave
 

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Kernel Crittenden said:
Of current production only Centennial frame guns are made without the lock. Any revolver were you can SEE the hammer will always have the lock.
Click to expand...

Awesome, glad they are looking out for us. :rolleyes:

Someone mentioned 642 no-locks were made from 1989-2001. They seem to be incredibly hard to find, unlike many other pre-locks. I suppose they made not very many?
 
I am not sure that I follow the original post entirely....but I have seen at least two Models 38 with a matte nickel finish, sort of like on the nickel 442. It looks superficially like the modern production 638...but it's really a 38.
 
I'm not as well versed on S&W guns as so many here are. I did not know that there was such a gun as a Model 38 airweight revolver.
 
Model 638-2 & 638-3

On the left in both photos is a 638-2 with no internal lock. On the right in both photos is a 638-3 with internal lock.
IMG_0149.jpg

IMG_0150.jpg
 
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