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- Feb 16, 2003
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Congratulations on your M39! Looks good to me
Model 39-2 new to me and I really like it
- Thread starter JSticks
- Start date
batman4706
Member
If you want to change the ramp insert color, I used to do it by using material from old toothbrush.
I don't know the answer to your question. However, requests for date of manufacture (shipping) are probably the most common threads in this forum.
If you start a new thread (here in this sub-forum) you will probably get a quick and accurate response! And everyone enjoys pictures!
Most importantly, welcome to the forum!
After re-reading my post, I realize that I said I would post a picture of my 39-2 with the used factory wood stocks I bought for $30.00. But, I didn't follow through with the picture. So here it is:
Well, that looks better!
Hussygun
Member
Looks much better with the factory made stocks. and yes, these do fit most hands well. I like the slim profile of a single stack. Only other single stacks that has close to same feel as a 39 is the old Beretta 951 and is somewhat same feel as a P38
Wow, that dark color looks amazing. Excellent choice!
I agree that the dark color is attractive on the 39-2. Mine are more of a honey color, which I may have to refinish now. Such an improvement!
I really wasn't trying to darken the stocks. When I received them they were, well, 40 years old and needed to be cleaned. So I lightly sanded them (not the checkered part) with a 600 grit paper then scrubbed them with "strong" rubbing alcohol. When dry, I applied several coats of plain old boiled linseed oil. Nothing fancy, but I do like the color!
Now I'm thinking that the picture I posted may have been a little misleading concerning how dark the stocks are. Boiled linseed oil definitely darkens and brings out the grain of the wood and gives depth to the finish but.... Here's another picture that sheds a little more light on the subject:
I don't want to mislead anybody!
I don't want to mislead anybody!
Man, you take pretty darn good pictures. I see a little difference in the darkness or shade but both pictures look awfully good.
It seems to me that the older 39/52 stocks tend to look a little darker and the newer ones a little lighter.
I have basically no skill in working with wood and/or wood finishes, but the pictures make me wonder how much better a hammered set of stocks might look with similar work. I'm curious if you do anything regarding the S&W emblem when it comes to the rubbing alcohol and the linseed oil?
The stocks I (might) try it with are in a re-import beater 39-2 that was reportedly an Israeli police issue. Functionally solid and fun, but LOTS of miles and the stocks are... heh, TRAVELLED.
It seems to me that the older 39/52 stocks tend to look a little darker and the newer ones a little lighter.
I have basically no skill in working with wood and/or wood finishes, but the pictures make me wonder how much better a hammered set of stocks might look with similar work. I'm curious if you do anything regarding the S&W emblem when it comes to the rubbing alcohol and the linseed oil?
The stocks I (might) try it with are in a re-import beater 39-2 that was reportedly an Israeli police issue. Functionally solid and fun, but LOTS of miles and the stocks are... heh, TRAVELLED.
Hey, taking pictures of handguns just ain't that easy and you've got all the lighting very even which is where I constantly struggle. Your pic is very good I think and your grips look close to mint!
LOL! Thanks. It's on my bed with a cell phone for a camera. The whole gun is super nice, but I can't figure out why one screw head out of the four is buggered up. All I did after purchase was wipe it with a rag to remove fingerprints.
I think the OP's satin sheen (oil finish) just looks better than glossy urethane or whatever S&W used. Just a matter of taste I guess.
Interesting that you mentioned the medallions. I was concerned because I didn't know whether they were originally nickle plated brass or simply brass when they left the factory. Anyway, mine were simply brass. I just stayed away from those while sanding, they are recessed, and gave them a bit of a scrubbing with some fine steel wool. You will see that the boiled linseed oil is very slow drying and easy to remove from any place it shouldn't be. Its like heavy salad oil.
In my case, I didn't have to soak the stocks in a chemical remover to remove the old finish.
First, I scrubbed the wood with alcohol to "de-grease" forty years of sweaty handling. (I do that with all used stocks that I buy, even rubber Uncle Mikes. Its surprising how much that refreshes them.)
I just lightly, slowly hand sanded the surface that wasn't checkered with fine, 600 grit, sandpaper, until it was smooth and bare wood. Normally you should not sand across the grain of the wood. But, this sandpaper is so fine that you can get away with it on the ends of the stocks. The original finish seemed to sit on rather than soak in the walnut. So It came off easily.
When the stocks dried I applied some regular hardware store boiled linseed oil ("BLO"). I poured a little on some 0000 steel wool and rubbed the coat in. And, I was not gentle doing that. The fine steel wool will remove some wood, but that is a good thing. I let that dry (that takes a while) then applied several more coats after allowing each to dry.
BLO isn't a very durable finish, but is is easy to reapply if needed. Just wet a rag and wipe it on. Let it dry. It's what I use on my Garands with GI walnut stocks.
I wouldn't be concerned about ruining your stocks. Surprisingly there is a lot of wood there and you would be removing a very, very thin layer.
Besides, worst comes to worst, you could probably get another used set, in good condition, for $30 or so!
JWF III
Member
Yes. Thank you. I'm glad I have a name for it now. It's something to tell my therapist/dealer. I now have 5. 5906TSW, 6906, 4516-1, 3913, 4006 TSW (CHP). My want list includes 1006, 4506, 39(39-2, 3904), 639(3906), and 52(-1,-2). Add in a few more TSWs, and maybe some PCs (.356 anyone?)
Such a nice affliction to have...
Wyman
