Model 4013

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Two Fridays ago, a local auction house had their monthly online sale. I placed a 400-dollar bid, then went about with some other activities. When I returned home, I had won. After an 18% buyer's premium and tax it cost me $497.20 This past Sunday, I tried it out at the range. All I could say is Wow! 25 rounds at 7 yards, unsupported, standing, with two hand hold. All rounds stayed within a 3" diameter, most all touching each other, and blew out the bottom half on the bullseye. I am thrilled with this purchase!
 

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That was my thought too … Make a 1013 outta that beeatch.

Then you're officially the Coolest Kid on your block.

Obligatory pic attached ….

I do have an excellent condition 1076 and a LNIB 1066. Over the years I've seen a number of 1006 and 1026 models that were either beat up or more expensive than I wanted to pay. I would also consider a 4014 for conversion, because I really like black guns too.

Question for you, guys. Who is the go-to guy for the conversion? I believe I've read about BMCM and guzzitaco or does it not matter because both gentlemen are really skilled gunsmiths?
 
I do have an excellent condition 1076 and a LNIB 1066. Over the years I've seen a number of 1006 and 1026 models that were either beat up or more expensive than I wanted to pay. I would also consider a 4014 for conversion, because I really like black guns too.

Question for you, guys. Who is the go-to guy for the conversion? I believe I've read about BMCM and guzzitaco or does it not matter because both gentlemen are really skilled gunsmiths?
Either of those two.
 
I would probably search out another one for a conversion to 10mm.

Nice 4013! Hard to find a reasonably priced one these days...surprising since so many people were convinced to dump off their .40s and switch to 9s.
And good call on looking for another to convert to 10. I bought a 4053 to switch to 10, but decided to leave as is.
 
Beautiful find! I have wanted one of these to go in my collection but I seem to be buying new in the box 3rd gen S&W semi autos…they are to pretty to shoot…
 
Nice 4013! Hard to find a reasonably priced one these days...surprising since so many people were convinced to dump off their .40s and switch to 9s.
And good call on looking for another to convert to 10. I bought a 4053 to switch to 10, but decided to leave as is.

CT is a small state but as a good number of gun shops, pawn shops and even an auction house. As time permits, I make the rounds even if it's just to window shop. Lately I've seen a rash of 40 S&W's models very reasonably priced. Examples have been 410, 411, 4053TSW, and 4056TSW priced between $399.99 and $599.99. If someone on the forum was really looking for one, I'd be happy to share its location. Last week I saw a really nice 4513TSW with rail and two magazines for $599.99 but had to pass because of the 4013 and a recently purchased Henry 357 X model I could not swing it.
 
CT is a small state but as a good number of gun shops, pawn shops and even an auction house. As time permits, I make the rounds even if it's just to window shop. Lately I've seen a rash of 40 S&W's models very reasonably priced. Examples have been 410, 411 4053TSW, and 4056TSW priced between $399.99 and $599.99. * * *
Interesting you mentioned seeing a model 411, S&W's so-called "Value-line" .40S&W.

I'm a 10mm guy but my M411 is the most accurate .40S&W pistol I've ever shot, to include several Sig P229 .40s. Picked it up for $300, pre-pandemic.

Obligatory pic ….
 

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What sort of conversion is required with the 40 S&W magazines? I actually have 4 or 5 spare mags from another 1066 that I sold last year, if they are useable.

The 1066 mags will stick out and you would have to cut that dimple off the side to go in the 4013. As much as they sell for, you might not want to deface them. But up to you

As for the 4013 mag, you have to remove the spacer in the back. Add a 10mm white follower and I also upgraded to a 10mm spring. Then those little dimples that held in that spacer need to either be cut out or bent out. Last I checked, Midway has 10mm followers in stock.

BMCM has a thread somewhere where he explains the process.

On a side note, both my 4053 and 4013 were having issues throwing out the last round instead of chambering in the 40 configuration. One mag decided it wanted to be a 10mm mag and the spacer fell out. So I decided to go ahead and convert it to 10mm. The last round jumping out problem went away. I think Smith added the spacer thinking it was needed and it actually caused a problem. There is less purchase on the round by the mag lips with the bullet pushed forwarded by the spacer. Setting it back in the mag solved the problem. They should have left the magazine setup for 10mm length from the factory.

Rosewood
 
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Dino44 , just do what I did . My CS40 is lnib , so I went to fleabay . I picked up another slide and barrel , then sent the slide to Guzzitaco . He did his PC cuts and mounted an LPA adjustable . Before all this I had BMCM do the conversion . I was going to find another CS40 in excellent condition , but gave up . I'll post some pictures later to give you an idea .
 

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Thanks for sharing, Marine. Your CS40/10 is awesome. Especially in the two-tone. Being that the CS's are pretty compact, is it a handful shooting in the 10mm configuration? I have two CS45's and a bunch of Detonics Combat Masters so I am not recoil sensitive. I've been a wrench turner my whole life. In fact, I even spent some time at welding school Cherry Point in the late nineteen eighties. I'll never forget seeing the F4 phantoms.
 
I like the 2 tone look . I did the same thing with my CS45 and a couple of my 9mm's . I tell myself it's so that I'll have adjustable sights , but it's really because I like the 2 tone look and Guzzitaco's slide cuts . We're even then , I spent time up at NAS Whitby Is , Wa . We were attached to VAQ-129 until we got our new aircraft .
 
What sort of conversion is required with the 40 S&W magazines?

That & more in my thread here:
Genesis: 4013 to 1013 to 1016

.

I think Smith added the spacer thinking it was needed and it actually caused a problem.

From what I've seen in my converted 4013 I'll disagree.

In post #9 of my thread above you'll see that without the magazine spacer the case is fully rearward & it's rim is subject to be behind the slide's breech face causing the first round to not be picked up sporadically when the slide release is depressed to chamber a round.

"Sometimes when you insert a new fully loaded magazine, with the slide locked back, & then press the slide stop lever down to pickup & load a round, it fails to pickup & load the top round.

What I noticed is that with the 1013 mag, because the spacer is removed, the top round sits fully to the rear of the mag.

With the slide locked back, when you insert a 1013 mag the rim of the top round hits the bottom the the slide's breech face. (Almost the full thickness of the case's rim is underneath the slide's breech face.)

Most times it pops forward of the breech face but sometimes it doesn't. When it doesn't it won't be picked up by the slide when you release the slide stop lever & you won't know it until you pull the trigger and are disappointed by the silence.

When a loaded 4013 mag is inserted the top round is well forward of the breech face, because of the spacer, & this problem doesn't happen.

The solution to the problem:

1)- always chamber the first/top round of the magazine by racking the slide by hand fully rearward (instead of dropping the slide stop lever on a locked back slide) as this allows the slide to go well past the top round's rim, and locked back point, and pick up a round every time,

or,

2)- slide the top round of a newly loaded magazine about 1/8" forward before inserting the magazine as this will allow the slide to reliably pickup the top round when releasing the locked slide.
"


.
.

Locked back slide position


.
 
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I'm not a .40 fan, the only one in my collection is a Mk III Shorty40. While converting it to 10mm never crossed my mind, I have toyed with the idea of adding a 357 SIG barrel to it. I've never dealt with Briley even though they're here in Houston, but I'm sure they would be able to produce and fit a barrel, if the money were right.
 

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I'm not a .40 fan, the only one in my collection is a Mk III Shorty40. While converting it to 10mm never crossed my mind, I have toyed with the idea of adding a 357 SIG barrel to it. I've never dealt with Briley even though they're here in Houston, but I'm sure they would be able to produce and fit a barrel, if the money were right.
Bar-Sto might too. Back in the day they were big into producing custom tubes for S&W 3rd Gens, although proper fitment was required by your 'smith.

I bought one such 10mm Bar-Sto 5" barrel for my model 1006. My 'smith hand-fitted it in the early 2000s. Awesome shooter and it really likes my 'Sonny Crockett' handloads. ;)
 

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I like the 2 tone look . I did the same thing with my CS45 and a couple of my 9mm's . I tell myself it's so that I'll have adjustable sights , but it's really because I like the 2 tone look and Guzzitaco's slide cuts . We're even then , I spent time up at NAS Whitby Is , Wa . We were attached to VAQ-129 until we got our new aircraft .

Sounds like you have a cool collection going on. Who knows we may have crossed paths. I was stationed at NAS W.I. twice. 1993 - 1996 and 2000 - 2003. AIMD 900 DIV if you ever checked out yellow gear for your aircraft. I do recall your squadron EA-6B's perhaps.
 
That & more in my thread here:
Genesis: 4013 to 1013 to 1016

.



From what I've seen in my converted 4013 I'll disagree.

In post #9 of my thread above you'll see that without the magazine spacer the case is fully rearward & it's rim is subject to be behind the slide's breech face causing the first round to not be picked up sporadically when the slide release is depressed to chamber a round.

"Sometimes when you insert a new fully loaded magazine, with the slide locked back, & then press the slide stop lever down to pickup & load a round, it fails to pickup & load the top round.

What I noticed is that with the 1013 mag, because the spacer is removed, the top round sits fully to the rear of the mag.

With the slide locked back, when you insert a 1013 mag the rim of the top round hits the bottom the the slide's breech face. (Almost the full thickness of the case's rim is underneath the slide's breech face.)

Most times it pops forward of the breech face but sometimes it doesn't. When it doesn't it won't be picked up by the slide when you release the slide stop lever & you won't know it until you pull the trigger and are disappointed by the silence.

When a loaded 4013 mag is inserted the top round is well forward of the breech face, because of the spacer, & this problem doesn't happen.

The solution to the problem:

1)- always chamber the first/top round of the magazine by racking the slide by hand fully rearward (instead of dropping the slide stop lever on a locked back slide) as this allows the slide to go well past the top round's rim, and locked back point, and pick up a round every time,

or,

2)- slide the top round of a newly loaded magazine about 1/8" forward before inserting the magazine as this will allow the slide to reliably pickup the top round when releasing the locked slide.
"


.
.

Locked back slide position


.

That maybe, but I guess I always rack my slide and don't use the release, so hasn't been an issue for me. Buddy of mine taught me that years ago. It mimics the actual function of the gun.

The spacer did cause a problem with my guns, the conversion fix that problem.

Rosewood
 

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