Model 442....Broken Hammer Stud....Back to S&W :(

[Robinett_11B]

I've had my 442-2 for approximately a year now, and it's been carried more than any of my other guns. It's always served me dutifully and never gave me any issues after the first time it went back to Smith after I bought it new last summer.

It had to go back for a "misfit" barrel that I missed when I bought the gun new from a LGS. Now, I guess through regular wear and shooting...the hammer stud has broken away from the frame :/

It's only been fired about 1,000 times and I only shoot standard pressure ammo through it. It's never seen any undue stress or abuse...just rides in my pocket most of the time. I'm assuming it's just one those "these things happen" kinda deals. I'm sure it's gonna be alright, but I'm still going to relegate the 442 to glovebox duty and replace my main pocket carry piece with a 640, 40, or 42.


The gun reached S&W today. I just wanted to post this thread to give a little before and after scene with the broken gun and dealing with S&W's customer service. My last experience was great, aside from the gun having to go back in the first place

Anyone know when S&W takes their summer break? So I can get an idea as to whether or not it'll be fixed sooner than later. Also, I've heard that they can have a hard time replacing these studs in the aluminum frames...and validity to that?



Thanks,
-Rob

Sorry for the lousy cell phone pictures :/

 

[Alk8944]

The Summer break, as I recall, is the last 2 weeks of July.

Gotta ask. You say you have fired ca. 1000 rounds, but how much did you dry-fire it? From the posts I read no one seems to understand that dry-firing imposes far greater shock loads on the frame studss, particularly the hammer stud, than live-firing does.

There is no reason why it should be any different to replace a stud in an aluminum frame than a steel frame. Either typically requires re-finishing of the frame. There may be economic reasons why they would replace the frame instead of replacing the stud, however.

 

[Robinett_11B]

I've probably dry-fired it close to 1,000 times as well. I'm newer to S&W's, but I've been learning a lot over the last couple years. I've read countless threads about dry-firing...but don't recall ever hearing about the frame studs incurring more wear when dry-fire vs. live fired. I can understand that there'd be wear, but why more when dry-fired vs. live fired? I always use snap caps, but that shouldn't affect they way the frame studs are wore on, should it?

I thought I read somewhere before that the aluminum frames are more-or-less a "one shot" deal with regards to barrels and studs...something about the frame not being able to take all the flexing? Also that S&W wont refinish the Airweight frames?

 

[TACC1]

I'm no 'smith, so my words carry little weight. As I understand
the use of snap-caps is exactly as you stated. It gives the firing pin something to arrest it's forward travel, and also cushions the impact.
Can't see where the use of snap-caps would be any different that
shooting ammo the same amount. I know that they sure speeded up
the smoothing-out of the trigger-pull on my new 442.
Sounds like this was a "one-of-those-things" event. 'Course, now
you've got me alerted. I'll be prepared, thanks for the "heads-up".
TACC1

 

[David Sinko]

Dry firing any gun without snap caps or fired cases is very hard on the internals. Depending on the design of the gun, there will probably be one single part that absorbs the vibration more than the rest. Also, the S&W revolver should never be dry fired with the sideplate removed.

Years ago I broke the trigger stud in my Model 25-7. There are some very competent gunsmiths in my area but the only one willing to fix it was Pinnacle. He made it as good as new and did not have to refinish the frame. In most instances I do not like to return guns to the manufacturer and prefer to pay to have them fixed by the better gunsmiths.

Dave Sinko

 

[Alk8944]

I've probably dry-fired it close to 1,000 times as well. I'm newer to S&W's, but I've been learning a lot over the last couple years. I've read countless threads about dry-firing...but don't recall ever hearing about the frame studs incurring more wear when dry-fire vs. live fired. I can understand that there'd be wear, but why more when dry-fired vs. live fired? I always use snap caps, but that shouldn't affect they way the frame studs are wore on, should it?

I thought I read somewhere before that the aluminum frames are more-or-less a "one shot" deal with regards to barrels and studs...something about the frame not being able to take all the flexing? Also that S&W wont refinish the Airweight frames?

If you read the original post you will see I said absolutely nothing about WEAR. I said SHOCK.

The common thread for most of the broken frame stud posts is that the gun had been dry-fired extensively. The primer cushions the hammer fall so it doesn't strike the frame. The abrupt, hard impact with the frame stresses the frame studs more than if cushioned by a primer. Snap-caps help, but they don't arrest the hammer fall entirely as does a primer, and the hammer still strikes the frame.

Instead of repeating the "I think I heards", call S&W Customer Service and ask them! There are circumstances they will do a repair, and ones where they will replace the frame or even the revolver. They cannot make that determination until they have the gun in-hand and can evaluate it.

The phone number is 800-331-0852.

 

[Robinett_11B]

Thanks. I already called them and they said (as did you) that they wouldn't know anything until they "got to my gun". They wont know if they'll have to refinish or replace the frame or what yet...sorta why I sought out the opinions of the forum here. Obviously the CS reps wont know those kinds of things. Is there a number for some kind of technical department at S&W?

 

[photoman]

Send it in and they will fix it or send you a new gun. Ask Smith & Wesson and they will tell you dry firing a 442 is just fine. I don't believe the factory would recommend dry firing if it caused broken guns.

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

Dry fire with the side plate removed could cause that.

I just don't see how it could break with the side plate on. The pin is supported on both sides, unless the pin is simply defective.

 

[Murdock]

Dry firing an airweight S&W a problem?

This is new to me.

I commend the OP for actually practicing with the piece he carries.

If it is true that dry firing -- even with snap caps in place -- is ill advised due to "shocking" the internals, then I would consider such a piece unsuitable for defensive carry. I have and sometimes use a 642 for CCW, and I may now re-think carrying it.

Dry firing is absolutely essential to life-saving competency with a defensive firearm of any type. A defensive firearm that is actually carried will be dry fired by the conscientious shooter far more than it will be fired with live ammunition.

 

[allglock]

Dry fire with the side plate removed could cause that.

I just don't see how it could break with the side plate on. The pin is supported on both sides, unless the pin is simply defective.

+1 to that!

 

[Robinett_11B]

Dry fire with the side plate removed could cause that.

I just don't see how it could break with the side plate on. The pin is supported on both sides, unless the pin is simply defective.

I've never dry fired it without the sideplate securely fastened to the frame. I had noticed an odd "squeak" and a hitch every now and then while dry-firing it when I was cleaning it after the last range trip, so I pulled the plate and there was the hammer stud, still inside the hammer...but most definitely no longer attached to the frame.

I've got an 042 and a Pre-40 en route though...I'll be officially done with new-production S&W's after this 442-2 gets back from the infirmary. It'll either live out the rest of it's days with me in a stashbox in the car or, more likely, in the classifieds of seattleguns.net