Model 60 Lady Smith cylinder binding

wyomick

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I recently bought a NIB Mdl 60LS. On first range trip, after 20 rounds of .357, the cylinder, latch, hammer, etc., bound up. I have checked the usual - bent ejector rod, loose ejector rod, debris under ejector star, etc., and all are good. It has virtually zero cylinder shake and a rough/tight .008 bbl/cyl gap. Can I file out the gap to a .010 (EZ Lap Diamond), or just send it back to S&W? Maybe it just needs a new cylinder that will have some shake? This has to be a common problem with these guns because this cylinder doesn't have much meat on the bone. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
 
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Just a question for you. Is this one of the model 60's with the internal lock. I had to remove my IL because it was doing exactly what you are describing. If your revolver does not have an IL. It sounds like you have already checked the ejector rod. I would loosen the retaining screw for the cylinder yoke. Remove the yoke and break down the cylinder make sure all of those parts are clean. Then reassemble the cylinder and yoke. See if that works.
 
DO NOT file your forcing cone -- that's a fine way to wreck it. Endshake should be .001".

Suggest a detail strip, inspection, clean and lube. Look for burs, machining errors and loose shavings. Re-test the revolver.

If it still malfunctions for no discernible reason, suggest a qualified revolversmith inspect it or a trip back to the factory.
 
Thanks guys. I took the cylinder out/disassembled, cleaned & lubed & the sideplate off and visually inspected/cleaned - all looks fine. Internal lock seems to be operating fine, but that doesn't mean something's happening during firing with it. The cylinder has no measurable endshake; zero. The ejector rod, however, seems to have a pretty stiff spring, requiring some effort on the cylinder latch to unseat the cylinder, and could have a burr on the latch hole/pin and/or ejector rod nipple, but not bad - just sharp machined edges. I've got some .38 SPL 125 gr. rounds I plan on running through it next time out, and if it's still binding, it's going back to S&W unless I can find a certified S&W guy around here, because whatever's going on is beyond my gunsmithing abilities/desires. Thanks again for your input Panama and Hapworth - solidified potential problems for me.
 
Just to finish this off - Had it back to the range last week and ran a box of 50 .38 SPL through it with no binding, however, the cylinder and latch are both a bit sticky and catch at times unlocking and locking back up. I don't trust it and am going to send it back to S&W for a look see.
 
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