Model 60 rust removal

[Brianbasic]

I'm not sure if this is right forum, but anyway I was wondering what you guys use to remove light rust? I've always heard 0000 steel wool and oil, but recently I heard that using a brass sponge or brush would work better because it is almost impossible to remove the bluing with brass. What do you guys think? Thanks.
Brian

 

[Jingles]

If it just a fleck here and there try using a copper penny (pre 1981). Soak the flecks in Ballistol, Kroil, etc. Let it sit a few minutes and then use the edge of the penny to scrape away the rust. If it is a larger area try fine copper wool (as opposed to steel wool). Use the same method.

Steel wool works but can damage the finish and leaves microscopic bits of steel dust that will eventually rust.

 

[MetalMan]

I'm not sure if this is right forum, but anyway I was wondering what you guys use to remove light rust? I've always heard 0000 steel wool and oil, but recently I heard that using a brass sponge or brush would work better because it is almost impossible to remove the bluing with brass. What do you guys think? Thanks.
Brian

Not sure why you're asking about blueing removal....the Model 60 is all stainless steel.....

Perhaps a little Mothers Mag Polish or Flitz on the affected area, remove the cleaner and follow with a light coating of oil, Ballistol or RenWax.

If you indeed have a blued gun, then re-check to Model number and follow "Jingles" instructions.

 

[rburg]

Any polishing or abrading on a stainless gun will expose some of the elemental iron on the surface. It will then be available for additional rust. Using steel wool will just embed iron molecules on the surface. Iron likes to rust. Finishing with wax or oil will delay that action. So go back and verify the model # as best you can. If you give us the serial or approximate serial, we can probably guess at the model. All guns weren't correctly marked at the factory. Very often someone here comes along with a miss marked gun and won't believe what we tell them. Most of us don't care because we have a really good record here of telling things like they are. Not always popular, but mostly accurate.

 

[Brianbasic]

clarification

Just to clarify the gun in question is a Glenfield(Marlin) model 60 of 1975 vintage. The are rust specks all up and down the outside of barrel and rear site. There is also a build up of rust under the rear site where it attaches to the barrel.

 

[da gimp]

Just to clarify the gun in question is a Glenfield(Marlin) model 60 of 1975 vintage. The are rust specks all up and down the outside of barrel and rear site. There is also a build up of rust under the rear site where it attaches to the barrel.

On a S&W forum.. & most firearm boards also, it is assumed that someone posting a question abut a model 60 firearm, with no maker's name listed, it would be a S&W model 60 revolver, which is a stainless handgun. Ya hasta post the maker & the model to get the correct advice... good, well focused, detailed pictures also help a great deal...

 

[labworm]

Where am I?

 

[rburg]

The advice originally given was pretty darn good. Most of us prefer to use the least invasive process we can. Then as things don't work we move up. The high dollar chemicals usually work. If you grew up poor, you can start with ATF (automatic transmission fluid). It does an amazing job for almost nothing. If you lurk/loiter around a filling station, you can usually find an empty can/jar and use the few drops still there to do its magic. Or hit a discount store a quart of the cheapest they have. Consider it a lifetime supply! You can use copper wool, or even just the edge of a piece of shirt cardboard to scrape. The ATF works well.

 

[Brianbasic]

Thanks for the advice. I have a bottle of ATF lying around and I'm going to get some copper wool tomorrow. I take some before and after pictures when I'm done. Thanks again.
Brian