model 60 still locking trigger pull at 80% pull

Sargent Tom

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"Problem is not the hammer block". Something is keeping the trigger from going back more than 80%. I took cover off to see what was keeping the cylinder from turning. Something is happening at 80%pull.

THEN, the whole cylinder just fell out on my lap.Is this all related?

Could the littke cylinder locks be out of place
 

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The front sideplate screw holds the cylinder in place. When you removed the sideplate screws it enabled the cylinder to come off. When did this problem show up? Did you have it apart, or just happened? Maybe the mainspring is out of place on the hammer? Try holding the thumbpiece for the cylinder release back and see if that makes a difference.
 
The hammer block is not in place and it appears that the bolt is not forward where it belongs either. The cylinder can't come out if the bolt is holding it in place.

There is supposed to be a spring and pin that holds the bolt forward and I don't see it in your picture.
 
In your last post in the previous thread you indicated the gun was back together and working. Have you made any other changes since the previous problem with the hammer block was corrected?

You indicated before that the stoppage was in the trigger return phase of the cycle. Are you now saying that the action is locking up when the trigger is being pulled DA?

(I hope those are empty casings in the gun and not live ammunition!)
 
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In your last post in the previous thread you indicated the gun was back together and working. Have you made any other changes since the previous problem with the hammer block was corrected?

You indicated before that the stoppage was in the trigger return phase of the cycle. Are you now saying that the action is locking up when the trigger is being pulled DA?

(I hope those are empty casings in the gun and not live ammunition!)

Yes, they are casings! I managed to remove the live rounds and duplicate the stoppage with spent shells.

The hammer block is merely laying there, it moved when I took the cover off.

Yes, Armorer, this is a new problem. After about every 5 rounds the trigger "stops and everything locks-up. The cylinder won't wiggle, the hammer won't move back, the trigger is frozen in place.

It was a good gun for 30 years until I removed the original hammer and ground too much off the spur. Now I have bought 2 more hammers from ebay and they are both experiencing this new problem.

I am on my way to range to try the factory trigger and see what happens. I realize I could do this at home with casings , but I want to shoot some rifles too.

I respond again tonight.
 
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I expect that the hammer needs to be properly "fitted" to the trigger. If you pick up the Kuhnhausen S&W Shop Manual you will find instructions for the various areas that need to be "fitted". If you don't wish to pick up a manual I would suggest that you pay a professional gunsmith to fit one of your new hammers to the lockwork.
 
I expect that the hammer needs to be properly "fitted" to the trigger. If you pick up the Kuhnhausen S&W Shop Manual you will find instructions for the various areas that need to be "fitted". If you don't wish to pick up a manual I would suggest that you pay a professional gunsmith to fit one of your new hammers to the lockwork.

Thanks Scooter, who needs a manual when there is a gunsmith section on this site, lol.

Seriously, I won't learn a thing if I give-up and use a gunsmith.
I have been already contacted by a gunsmith from this site who lives 20 min. from me and I will use him as a last resort.
 
OK, bad news everyone! I installed the original factory hammer and the same thing has happened, however, I couldn't get the problem to happen when I dryfired about 50 times with no cases in it.

I am now officially lost. I even checked to see if it was happening on the same spot on the cylinder, it was not.

When it happens, I can squeeze with all my strength and it won't cycle enough to drop the hammer.

PS when it happens, mid-trigger-pull, everything locks-up and nothing can be wiggled, not even the cylinder, hammer or anything. If this was a cleanliness problem i don't know where it could be.
 
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Swap the DA sear from the original and install it on one of the new ones.

Thanks Chief, but obviously I'm past that being the problem now. I had considered installing the matched set, hammer and trigger assembly, I bought new on ebay, but looked too complicated. So I bobbed the hammer, installed it and problems started.

I am now going to search for worn areas which might give me a clue.
 
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OK, check to see of the Hand & Spring are installed properly. Was hand bent or damages while working on gun? So difficult without having it in hands while trying to diagnose..............
 
Tom, is this lockup dependent on the orientation of the revolver. Such as does it happen when the revolver is level but not when it's pointed up or down? If this is the case I would suggest that you check to see if there is a pin inserted inside the Rebound Spring to act as a trigger stop. If there is, flip that pin end for end and this should solve your problem.

Note, the N frame revolvers typically have in trigger stop in inside the rebound spring and I discovered the orientation of this pin is rather critical. Because get it installed the wrong way and the result can be exactly what you are experiencing. BTW, if you've read between the lines and feel that I learned this lesson the "hard way" you would be 100% correct. Since I don't own any J frames I didn't mention this before but thought it may be helpful in the event your model has that trigger stop pin installed.

I will also repeat my suggestion that you purchase the Kuhnhausen Shop Manual. Even Rocket Scientists use manuals so I really don't see the logic in beating your head against the wall when a manual can be such an asset.
 
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A couple of things come to mind ref the lock up of the action as the hammer comes back in DA.

Look at the sideplate (for contact) and the area inside the frame near the back of the bolt, to see if there are any signs of contact from the hammer. Sometimes the "tail" of the hammer (see photo) can catch on the edge of a protruding bolt stem, or the edge of the cutaway in the frame made for the bolt itself.

Also, if the sear is not long enough, when the trigger cams off of the sear, and transitions over to the DA bevel on the hammer, it doesn't go under the bevel as it should but strikes the hammer bevel face. This is usually felt as a "bump" when it first begins to malfunction due to wear. When parts are switched, however, this can manifest itself as a complete stoppage, and not just a "bump".
You should be able to see and feel this happen if you remove the sideplate, remove the mainspring and strut, and then cycle the action slowly, adding some gentle forward hand pressure to the back of the hammer at the spur, paying attention to the area where the top of the sear ledge of the trigger transitions contact from there over to the DA camming surfaces on the hammer and trigger. If the camming surfaces are striking head-on at that location, a longer sear would be needed. If the transition is functioning correctly, the DA cam on the hammer should come in above the DA bevel on the trigger. The malfunction may be happening because you have substututed a used part into the mix. The part may have in fact, been sold after having been removed from another j-frame because it was malfunctioning in this way.

That's the reason why you're having problems. You can't just "drop in" these parts. They are fit to each particular gun.
 

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Tom, is this lockup dependent on the orientation of the revolver. Such as does it happen when the revolver is level but not when it's pointed up or down? If this is the case I would suggest that you check to see if there is a pin inserted inside the Rebound Spring to act as a trigger stop. If there is, flip that spring end for end and this should solve your problem.

Note, the N frame revolvers typically have in trigger stop in inside the rebound spring and I discovered the orientation of this spring is rather critical. Because get it installed the wrong way and the result can be exactly what you are experiencing. BTW, if you've read between the lines and feel that I learned this lesson the "hard way" you would be 100% correct. Since I don't own any J frames I didn't mention this before but thought it may be helpful in the event your model has that trigger stop pin installed.

I will also repeat my suggestion that you purchase the Kuhnhausen Shop Manual. Even Rocket Scientists use manuals so I really don't see the logic in beating your head against the wall when a manual can be such an asset.

Never tried up or down. But I may go to range today.
 
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Oh Boy!! I wonder if this is part of the culprit? I noticed a deep scratch across the bottom of some cartridges. I looked at the firing pin hole, it is oval-shaped and has a "lip" sticking out.

Notice that the primer is dragged crooked?

Must "click picture to enlarge"
 

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