Model 66 for 2014

S

shawn mccarver

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There has been quite a little discussion about the new Model 66 with 4 1/4 inch barrel. Unlike many, I have no problem with the 2-piece barrel, the MIM parts or the Internal Lock (it is easily removed in its entirety, if you desire). I have said so on this Forum numerous times.

I wanted to show quite a few pictures of the revolver as I am quite impressed with it. To be honest, I prefer the new arrangement at the muzzle end of the barrel. To me, it looks better than the "end cap" or flange that is on other 2-piece barrels, and I can only hope they change them all over to this arrangement.

Other things to look for: The ball detent arrangement and locking method cut into the ejector shroud, the treatment of the end of the ejector rod, the cylinder-end of the barrel - the shank and the lack of flat cut at the 6 o'clock position, and the little curved "tab" on the yoke that fits under the barrel shank. S&W have obviously put some thought into what is going on here, and I hope this signals some changes to the modern revolvers across the board.

In any event, here are photos, exactly as it arrived from the distributor yesterday. No shooting report yet, as I have to get some other stocks.

Enjoy.
 

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Excellent detailed pictures! First ones on the ball detent I have seen.

So they moved the gas ring (if there even is one) back to the yoke and relieved it to fit the barrel.

Any markings on the right side of the grip frame?
 
By way of further comment about this revolver, I wanted everyone to know that it has been lubed and is ready for a range session.

Using properly fitting screw drivers, a plastic mallet, etc., the revolver was opened up, and examined. Everything is as it should be.

A proper and sparing application of Break Free was given (one drop each on the studs, one drop on the finger tip applied to the rebound slide, the bolt, hammer block, etc. (yes, on both sides of each).

Everything was carefully put back together, armorer checked to make sure all springs are functioning (you know, the spring that keeps the hand in the forward position, the spring on the bolt plunger, the spring that keeps the firing pin retracted, etc.) and that the action is functioning properly.

Timing on this revolver is perfect, with nice early lock-up on each charge hole in relatively the same place on each charge hole, and well before hammer fall on each charge hole.

A note to those taking apart any revolver with MIM hammer: The little stirrup that holds the mainspring can fall out, and you have to carefully put it back the right way. Those used to a pinned part will not expect it to fall out, and you can put it back wrong. It will only work when in its correct position. Either take a quick picture of the internals right after you vibrate off the sideplate, or go to the S&W-Smithing section of this Forum and look at pictures of the MIM hammer and its stirrup in this thread:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/94072-faqs.html

Keep in mind also that the little stirrup can be put in "below" the point at which it will rotate up high enough to accommodate the mainspring, even if you get it in oriented correctly.

It might help to also look at the excellent pictures by forum member valkyriekl in this thread in order to learn the correct orientation of the stirrup:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...81-do-you-know-if-innards-interchangable.html

The pictures in Posts 11, 14, 23, 24, and 26 are of great help.

In any event, the 66-8 has now been fitted with my round butt "working" stock of choice, Hogue Bantams.

Here she is ready for the range.
 

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Thanks for this great report, Shawn. I had wondered what it was going to be like when it finally got here. I especially appreciate the very last picture you posted showing from the side just how the profile has changed with the IL... having heard so much commentary on this, I was curious. I'd still like to see and older example such as a 66-2 or -3 and your new one side by side to make a direct comparison. It appears that you have gotten a good one regardless, so I hope you enjoy it!

Froggie
 
Are you looking for a quality leather holster for your new 66?
 
I think that the new M66 is a handsome devil. I know what the MSRP is on these, but what are people paying for "street price" at the LGS's?
 
Shawn,
I saw that, if you are waiting for holster manufacturers to catch up with the new 66, plan on waiting years. Have you tried a 'vintage' Bianchi Cyclone #111? These are heavier and much better quality compared to present Bianchi's made in Mexico. I have a new/unused tan #111 for S&W Medium frame .357 revolver marked holster that I placed a S&W 4" model-65 w heavy barrel in for fitment, and there was some room to spare. Barrel was not close to being an issue. You might try a Bianchi as described or look at a Threeperson's design if you like that style of holster since barrel diameter will not be an issue. Take care, RP.
 
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Shawn - Is the cylinder OAL a little longer on the new model 66? That might be of benefit to those who like to load heavy weight cast slugs to max OAL. Nice looking revolver by the way. I will be curious how it shoots for you, especially with cast slugs.

Larry
 
Fishinfool said:
Shawn - Is the cylinder OAL a little longer on the new model 66? That might be of benefit to those who like to load heavy weight cast slugs to max OAL. Nice looking revolver by the way. I will be curious how it shoots for you, especially with cast slugs.

Larry
Click to expand...

The cylinder looks to be the same length. I do not have a caliper to take an accurate measurement. My impression, however, based upon a visual side-by-side, of the 64-8, the 66-4 and the new 2014 66-8 is that the cylinders are the same length on all three.
 
Thanks for all the great pictures and commentary, Shawn. I'd like to know what you think about the hammer for single action shooting (?) on the new gun.
 
I have not had it to the range yet, but in dry fire (yes, I do quite a bit of that), it seems to be fine. I have had zero issues with the action, the weight of pull, the "feel" of the hammer or trigger, etc. I will say this - the action is really smooth in that there are no "hitches" or sudden hang-ups when running the action in DA mode in a controlled way. I like it so far. The proof is in the shooting, however.
 
Shawn thanks for the great and detailed write up. I ordered a 66 about four weeks ago from local dealer,can't wait.
 
Gentlemen; I for one, applaud S&W for bringing the 66 back. Yes it's different, but things change. There are purist out there that will belittle the new style 66. This new model looks hell for stout and if I hadn't switched off to GP's, I would have a new 66 by now. I might just do it anyway, the 66 was(is) the most comfortable(at least for me, anyhow) shooting revolver in existance.
Hoo-Ah!, S&W, Hoo-Ah!
And thank you for bringing back the Queen of Combat revolvers.
Ofc.JL
 
shawn mccarver said:
I have not had it to the range yet, but in dry fire (yes, I do quite a bit of that), it seems to be fine. I have had zero issues with the action, the weight of pull, the "feel" of the hammer or trigger, etc. I will say this - the action is really smooth in that there are no "hitches" or sudden hang-ups when running the action in DA mode in a controlled way. I like it so far. The proof is in the shooting, however.
Click to expand...

Great news. Great report. Can´t wait to hear how it shoots.
 
model 66-8 hard trigger pull

I have the new model 66-8 and the only issue I have is the trigger pull. I have several S&W revolvers including the 642, 686 plus, model 15-3 and all of the triggers are smoother. I added some CLP and started to dry fire with snap caps.

Does anyone know it the trigger pull will smooth out with dry firing?

It seems rougher than the 686 plus and the 642-2. Just not as smooth. I expect and like a heavy pull for safety and I usually stage the trigger but this one is hard to pull.

Thank you
 
sac-gunslinger said:
Kaaskop, you're incorrigible....but I like the way you think.

Shawn, thanks for the great photos and the technical analysis. Now I just have to keep talking myself out of wanting one.

What is the price by the way?
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My LGS has on right now priced $720.
 
sac-gunslinger said:
That is not too bad for today's market. An LGS has a nrw Model 67 at a higher price than that.

And here I thought I had just sold my "last" K-frame. :D
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Yeah. The owner of the shop told me he had just bought for his personal collection an original 66 in 4" barrel unfired new in box and paid $730.

The gun he has in stock that is tempting me right now is a new 629-6(?) with a 6" barrel that he has priced either $785 or $789. To me that is an incredible deal. I'm thinking about just putting it on lay away.
 
I am sure the gun shoots nice, but the black hammer, trigger, and cylinder release just don't look right to me. Beretta does the same thing with their INOX guns, and the later s&w third gens too. Just doesn't look right
 
Very nice review of this new revolver.

Seems like it will work just fine.

But so much has changed from the original 19/66 that it looks to me that aside from the cylinder this is basically an entirely new firearm. At least S&W carried on the same basic manufacturing techniques pre and post WW2, but these new models are certainly a departure. I will be looking forward to seeing how they preform on a long term basis, and if they will enjoy the "collectability" of the previous models.

Have to admit, I'm glad I still have my "old" 66-1,

 
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