Model 69 barrel

[steelslaver]

I was examine and measuring a model 69 because I want a L frame 45 ACP. I believe that the cylinder has enough meat in it and as tthe forcing cone has been beefed up it can also work. But, I notice it is a 2 piece barrel and the shroud piece has a small tab that goes into the frame.

My question is how do you remove the shroud piece. If I can get the shroud off all I would have to do is machine a 45 cal blank and fit it to replace the 44 mag barrel and then remark and install the shroud.

 

[Yorkie Man]

You will need the tool that fits into the barrel in order to unscrew the barrel which holds the shroud on.

 

[steelslaver]

OK, does the barrel screws into the shroud and the receiver or are is there a shoulder(s?) on the barrel that trap the shroud and hold it tight to the frame. Anywhere one can see an exploded view. I do find the way they moved the crane lock interesting. I check one side by side with a 629 and the 69 had a little less crane movement. Should work.

 

[Yorkie Man]

The barrel has a shoulder on it and screws into the frame. The shoulder on the barrel holds the shroud on. It is similar to the Dan Wesson system except the they used nut that was threaded onto the end of the barrel.

 

[steelslaver]

I can visualize this type of assembly. I should be able to remove it by plugging the receiver end of the barrel, inserting a slight undersized piece of brass square stock and then pour the barrel with the square stock full of low melting point solder like Indalloy 117 0r 158 and use that to turn the barrel out. Same to install the new barrel then just clean out the solder in boiling water. I have aluminum N and K frame inserts for a frame wrench and could machine some L frame inserts to fit. I hope they used N frame threads, but if not I can get a matching tap and then make my own die out of tool steel like I did for N frames to clean up the threads after I turn them.

 

[Yorkie Man]

In the owners manual it shows a tool with a hex head on it that has grooves on it that fits inside the end of the muzzle, the grooves fit inside the rifling. It says that trying to remove the barrel/shroud without the tool will result in damage.

 

[steelslaver]

Thanks for your pm. I am interested in the wrench, but I am pretty sure the method I described would work with no damage. Low temp solders are often used to fixture parts for machining. The have a very low melting point and minimal shrinkage. Both of those I mentioned would melt in boiling water, but should give a secure fit to the inside of the barrel.