model 69 heavy trigger pull

[PHS327]

Anyone have the trigger pull get harder on a revolver? My model 69 had an 11 pound trigger pull when I got it, new. Last time I checked it was 13. If this continues, well, I don't even want to think about it.

Any ideas what could be going on?

 

[Dale53]

It might be time to pull the sideplate and clean and lubricate.

Dale53

 

[BLUEDOT37]

A good general cleaning won't hurt but the specific area I'd look at is the cylinder.

If the cylinder doesn't spin freely on the yoke's barrel, with the cylinder opened, it'll make the trigger pull harder.

Remove the yoke & cylinder assembly from the revolver & thoroughly clean the yoke's barrel where the cylinder spins on it.

This model commonly gets carbon build-up in this area binding up the two causing a drag on it.

.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Also, clean under the extractor. Dirt can get in there and make the cylinder turn hard when it's closed.

 

[PHS327]

Thanks to all for the responses. However, all those things have been done recently.

 

[3rdgeargrndrr]

I assume it is also well lubed.
Does it feel any harder? Are you using the same trigger gauge?
Any galling going on?
Maybe something is now misaligned or burred and causing more drag somewhere?

 

[oink]

My response would be the same as that posted by Bluedot37. I pretty much gave up shooting cast bullets from mine. I actually get lead buildup inside the yoke barrel area. I haven't tried powder coated bullets. It's not much of an issue with jacketed bullets. You'll get some carbon but it's not rapid as with the cast lead and lead buildup. The lead might not be noticeable at a glance.

 

[PHS327]

I assume it is also well lubed.
Does it feel any harder? Are you using the same trigger gauge?
Any galling going on?
Maybe something is now misaligned or burred and causing more drag somewhere?

Yes, well lubed. Yes, feels harder. Yes, same trigger gauge.

What is galling?

Gun is currently with gunsmith. Should hear back in about a week.

 

[PHS327]

My response would be the same as that posted by Bluedot37. I pretty much gave up shooting cast bullets from mine. I actually get lead buildup inside the yoke barrel area. I haven't tried powder coated bullets. It's not much of an issue with jacketed bullets. You'll get some carbon but it's not rapid as with the cast lead and lead buildup. The lead might not be noticeable at a glance.

How fast does the lead build up? My gun probably has less than 200 rounds since it's been deep cleaned.

 

[twodog max]

I have a Model 69 and shoot a lot of cast bullets in it. I have never really had much problem with lead build up but the carbon sure does but I guess my revolver might have to really clean it about every 500 rounds. It does not get hard to use just filthy. Might be an individual revolver thing.

 

[PHS327]

A good general cleaning won't hurt but the specific area I'd look at is the cylinder.

If the cylinder doesn't spin freely on the yoke's barrel, with the cylinder opened, it'll make the trigger pull harder.

Remove the yoke & cylinder assembly from the revolver & thoroughly clean the yoke's barrel where the cylinder spins on it.

This model commonly gets carbon build-up in this area binding up the two causing a drag on it.

.

Well, I got it back from the gunsmith and it was perfect. DA trigger pull now a little over 7 pounds and smooth as can be. And that's with keeping the factory springs. I took it to the range and shot about 90 rounds. Trigger pull still measured a little over 7 but when I opened the cylinder and tried to spin it, it didn't. It would only turn as long as my finger was turning it and then stop when my finger did. I took it apart and did what BLUEDOT37 said. Put a little gun grease on the yoke's barrel, put the gun back together and now it spins like a top.

If it got that dirty with only 90 rounds, the gun would probably stop dead at about 200 or 300. I guess I'll have to use cleaner ammo or clean the yoke's barrel every time I use it. I didn't think the dirt would build up that quickly.

 

[H Richard]

Are you hand loading a Light load? Reason I ask is that larger calibers and some powders burn dirty unless a full load, with good crimp and mag primers. A good review of a couple loading manuals may give you idea's. Softer dirty loads will gum up an action fairly quick.

I recall a .22 (no brand name mentioned) shot in a Mod 41. After 3 clips the action was so gummy it wouldn't load and function.

 

[PHS327]

Are you hand loading a Light load?

I do not hand load. I shot 70 rounds of HSM 44 special and 20 rounds of Georgia Arms 44 Mag.

 

[Paul105]

In the picture below, I put a drop of CLP or Syn Auto Trans Fluid on the portion of the yoke that interfaces with the frame and the opening around the yoke barrel ( cyl/yoke interface). I do this before each shooting session. Also a drop of ATF on the ratchet, frame breach and lock up ball detent.

I've shot at least 1,000 rnds of 240gr coated lead swcs over 17.5gr of 2400 (deep seated and crimped over front drive band) only lubing as indicated above.

If the HSM 44 special ammo is lead, it is pretty dirty in my experience with 41 mag cowbow loads.

Hope some of this helps.

Paul

 

[jjmIII_Ruger]

....and 20 rounds of Georgia Arms 44 Mag.

I bought some of their 44 Special. Haven't shot any yet, but GA's is mostly all reloads... And low power loads.

 

[BigChief52]

A great feature of S&W revolvers is how only one screw needs to be removed to take the yoke and cylinder off. I do this at every cleaning. Besides being able to remove crud that might bind up the cylinder, it makes it less likely I'll damage anything than it would with the cylinder hanging open.

 

[PHS327]

In the picture below, I put a drop of CLP or Syn Auto Trans Fluid on the portion of the yoke that interfaces with the frame and the opening around the yoke barrel ( cyl/yoke interface). I do this before each shooting session. Also a drop of ATF on the ratchet, frame breach and lock up ball detent.

I've shot at least 1,000 rnds of 240gr coated lead swcs over 17.5gr of 2400 (deep seated and crimped over front drive band) only lubing as indicated above.

If the HSM 44 special ammo is lead, it is pretty dirty in my experience with 41 mag cowbow loads.

Hope some of this helps.

Paul

Sure couldn't hurt. I'll try it. Next time I shoot the gun, and it might be awhile give the current ammo situation, if the cylinder binds up again, I'm going to contact S&W and see what they say. I found a couple of other posts indicating people have sent their M69 back for cylinder binding and something was fixed. Not sure what was fixed but maybe there is a problem with some of the M69's.

 

[PHS327]

I bought some of their 44 Special. Haven't shot any yet, but GA's is mostly all reloads... And low power loads.

Georgia Arms has a 240 grain round at 1000 fps. I think that's the perfect 44 mag load for this gun. I've shot a bunch of this as well as the HSM 44 special through this gun and have only recently had a problem with the cylinder binding.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

Put a little gun grease on the yoke's barrel, put the gun back together and now it spins like a top.

Glad to hear that helped.

Beware though that grease in that location is subject to the high pressure & flames from the barrel-cylinder gap.

Depending on what lubricant you use, & how much you use, it may get gummed again quicker than you expect.

I've had good success just cleaning it & then polishing the yoke's barrel with a small piece of extra fine Scotch Brite pad, leaving it dry & making it a part of your cleaning routine.

You can see what works best for you.

My M69 is my favorite 44 snubbie to shoot.

.



.
.



.
.



.