model 69 trigger

lx2008

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hello,
bought a 69 about a month ago and have only shot it with 240gr jhp`s of my own. trigger is not that bad but i was wondering what you guys think is the most cost effective way to bring the trigger to a 3lb pull and a smoother double-action pull? mine measures on avg of a 4.5 lb single & about 10 double. ( i dont do any smithing myself keep in mind, at least on revolvers)


thanks for any suggestions!
 
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thanks but i dont intend to. i bought a 629 from my bro in-law that had work. just as good as my python. thats what i`m looking to achieve.
 
Typically an "action job", including parts replacement, polishing, and spring changes might be considered. But it's not a home project for most.....

The guns purpose is also relevant. Is it a SD or hunting weapon? If so, reliability is key. Many "action jobs" come close to skirting the edge of reliability - and that is an important consideration depending on the guns use.

A good start to a smoother trigger is to spend a couple evenings in front of the boob tube with an EMPTY gun cycling the gun double action a couple thousand times. It will do wonders for smoothness, and make the trigger pull feel lighter. After the various mechanical parts have had a chance to wear in, if I still wanted a little lighter trigger pull, I would look at replacing the trigger return spring with a slightly lighter Wolfe replacement.

Larry
 
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Like Fishinfool said, dry fire the hell out of it. Since you don't want to do any smithing, about all that's left is to find a competent smith to do an action job.
Or just back off the mainspring about 1/2 a revolution. That's easy enough.
 
The one I had (I've since moved it along) was improved by some simple spring changes.

I initially changed both the hammer spring and trigger rebound spring, however I didn't like the reliability of the primer strikes, so put the factory hammer spring back. The reduced power trigger rebound spring (13lb, IIRC) worked fine with speedy follow-up shots. While I had the trigger rebound slide out, I stoned it on the surfaces and did some general lubrication of the innards. Overall, it was reliable and improved.
 
I had a J-Frame model 442 that I dry fired 5000 times (with snap caps) over a 1 week period of time. After live fireing only 200 rounds. This trigger was the smoothest and lightest double action on any S&W revolver owned befor or since, including a 442 PC that I also have. I need to add that I coated all moving parts with ordinary tootpaste every 500 pulls. Got pretty good at removing and reinstalling the side plate. I actually did nearly wear that gun out . Live fired over 5000 rounds over the next 5 or 6 years.
 
may use for self-d sometimes but i have a model 66 combat & a couple 1911`s for that. just wanted to make a target revolver out of this one and shoot hardcast out of it for that reason.
 
For what it's worth, my gunsmith just did what he calls a simple action polish to my M69. All parts remain factory. Trigger pull was reduced from about 13 to 7.5 and smooth as a baby's behind. Totally reliable.

If I shoot lead I have to remove the cylinder and clean inside when it gets hard to turn. If I shoot FMJ it seems the inside doesn't get dirty, at least not very often.
 
i called my smith yesterday and he has a Power Custom trigger kit he is going to install and a custom spring kit from wilson combat. says it will give me the single action pull i want and really smooth out the double. little pricey but to me its worth it.

 
i called my smith yesterday and he has a Power Custom trigger kit he is going to install and a custom spring kit from wilson combat. says it will give me the single action pull i want and really smooth out the double. little pricey but to me its worth it.


You don't need the Power Custom parts. The S&W MIM hammers and triggers are very nice, IMO. Swap out the rebound spring and dry fire it a lot with some good snap caps and it will smooth out nicely for you.
 
thanks for the heads up on the kits. he also mentioned the 14lb spring.
 

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