kthom
Member
Bronze wool (4 ought grade) can be purchased at Amazon!
Model of 1950 Military Find - UPDATED
- Thread starter younggun22
- Start date
OP
We will know the extent of it after a good soak. I am thinking 3-4 days for starters
Targets Guy
US Veteran
I used that method with an old Victory. Be patient and work slow.
Good morning, Mike. I never tried this exact mixture but seems reasonable.
When you say ATF do you mean standard GM Dexron, synthetic Dexron VI or other ? Acetone won't harm whatever remains of the bluing ?
In either this or another post someone recommends 0000 steel wool. I found the 0000 bronze wool is much better. Any steel dust left behind from steel wool ( if not completely flushed out) will start to cause new rust specs over time.
This is the recipe for Ed's Red Gun Bore Cleaner. The ATF and acetone are component parts. If you don't want to soak for days then scrub, get some Blue Wonder Cleaner. It will remove rust but not affect the bluing. It is formulated to get metal surfaces squeaky clean in preparation for the Blue Wonder cold blue. See their demos on youtube.
Model3sw
I've read several postings regarding the ATF and acetone mixture, but I've not had to try it myself. I do know, personally, that acetone does not harm any of the S&W bluing. I've also soaked lots of gummed-up lockwork and cylinder's in Xylene, and it has never harmed the bluing. Its a bit hot, so you have to protect your hands, etc. Acetone and Xylene, on their own, do not remove rust.
The rust remover I use is Kroil penetrating oils. It does require some elbow-grease, but it will free up stuck screws, etc, with a long soak. Another penetrant is Knock-er-loose. It works faster than Kroil, but will loosen up almost anything that is stuck.
Regards, Mike
I've read several postings regarding the ATF and acetone mixture, but I've not had to try it myself. I do know, personally, that acetone does not harm any of the S&W bluing. I've also soaked lots of gummed-up lockwork and cylinder's in Xylene, and it has never harmed the bluing. Its a bit hot, so you have to protect your hands, etc. Acetone and Xylene, on their own, do not remove rust.
The rust remover I use is Kroil penetrating oils. It does require some elbow-grease, but it will free up stuck screws, etc, with a long soak. Another penetrant is Knock-er-loose. It works faster than Kroil, but will loosen up almost anything that is stuck.
Regards, Mike
StrawHat
Member
Jim,
Thank you for the info. Looks like I need to get a copy of the SCSW, or at least the chapters on the ACP revolvers.
Kevin
StrawHat
Member
OP
Well here it is.....
Had it soaking for the last few days while I waiting for a hand spring. I went after it with brass wool this morning and I think it turned out pretty good, way better than when I picked it up. I could have kept going but my hands were starting to cramp up after about an hour!
The spring fixed the cycling problem and the timing is spot on and the lock up is nice and tight. Looks like it will be a great shooter.
Had it soaking for the last few days while I waiting for a hand spring. I went after it with brass wool this morning and I think it turned out pretty good, way better than when I picked it up. I could have kept going but my hands were starting to cramp up after about an hour!
The spring fixed the cycling problem and the timing is spot on and the lock up is nice and tight. Looks like it will be a great shooter.
OP
Is it a sin to chop the barrel on this one?
ShivasIrons
Member
Personally, I would leave it as it is. It is a cool old gun with patina as it sits.
Provided you are not doing any other mods to this 1917, I would put the original barrel away and install another barrel and cut that one.
The cleaning worked nicely. It was the left side of the barrel where I noticed what looked like pitting, and that is still there. All said, it looks a whole lot better.
The barrel on the gun should be numbered to the gun, I think. If it is, then I would not cut that one, but look around for another barrel. That way, you can always put it back to original. If you shorten the barrel, you'll have to make a front sight somewhat higher.
Unless you like the appearance of short-barrel N-frames, I don't think you'll gain anything by cutting a barrel shorter. It won't look quite right, from the muzzle, because it will be a bit thicker, due to the taper of the barrel. Also, you'll have to silver solder, or braze, another front sight on to the shorter barrel. You'll probably have to reblue at least the barrel, and silver solder and/or braze do not blue. The attachment line will always be visible.
Regards, Mike Priwer
The barrel on the gun should be numbered to the gun, I think. If it is, then I would not cut that one, but look around for another barrel. That way, you can always put it back to original. If you shorten the barrel, you'll have to make a front sight somewhat higher.
Unless you like the appearance of short-barrel N-frames, I don't think you'll gain anything by cutting a barrel shorter. It won't look quite right, from the muzzle, because it will be a bit thicker, due to the taper of the barrel. Also, you'll have to silver solder, or braze, another front sight on to the shorter barrel. You'll probably have to reblue at least the barrel, and silver solder and/or braze do not blue. The attachment line will always be visible.
Regards, Mike Priwer
OP
I have a chopped 1917 barrel that is missing a front sight. I might just leave this one alone though the more that I think about it.
