Model of 91/10" barrel/38cal/ 1 of 160 made!!

Loads

Thanks Trapper,

Well I admit, I got a little lazy and decided to use pre- made lead bullets. Only due to my shop temp being what it is?

Anyway, I decided to use 3 loads and two different bullets. A 158 grain round nose and my 125 grain target bullet. Both are custom cast to .360. The 125 grain is Lazer cast and I have had excellent results in long barrel S&W topbreaks at 20 yard targets.

I had to tap into my stash of primers and thought the forum would get a kick out of the price tag on my Winchester primers? That's why we stock pile reloading supplies for times like these!

Photo of my loaded rounds are as follows:


1st load) ( Left cartridge)
16 grains of FFFG Goex compressed with the 125 grain/ .360 Lazer molded target bullet. The case is expanded below the bullet seating depth to match the chamber diameter.( Trick for optimum accuracy) The top 1/3 of the case is run through a RCBS .38 cal sizing die to provide a tight seat without crimping the case. This helps to line up the bullet for perfect initial contact with the rifling.

2nd load) ( cartridge on right)
Identical powder load as first. Same shell specs also except this load has a 158 grain round nose lead bullet compressed against the powder.
*** Notice also the photo of the 158 grain bullet run through the bore? That's exactly what you want to see from your bullet selection.

3rd load)( middle cartridge)

This is the hottest load. 19.5 grains of compressed FFFG Goex. 125 grain target Lazer molded bullet. Again, lower case is expanded to match bore dimension and mouth of case is only run 1/3 into a RCBS .38 sizing die. I intend to try this single shot at 50 yards so this will be the down range load.

Now, if the weather will just get better?

Murph
 

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FFFFG

Ive never tried FFFFG in a pistol load. What kind of results did you get? What calibers?

Murph
 
I have used it in revolvers from 32 tp 45 ACP. I don't own or use a chronograph, but judging target impact there is a velocity increase over the same amount of 3f. Also, you can fit more in even before you compress the load.
I use Olde Eynesford because it was available at the Log Cabin the day I was there.

Regular pistol primer and appropriate lube rounds out the formula.

If I can be of any other assistance, let me know.

Kevin
 
Published documentation suggests a 15% to 20% increase in pressures using 4F and recommend a similar reduction if volume between each grade of BP. The only valid use for FFFF powder is for priming flintlocks, using it in a pistol cartridge will definitely increase pressures and velocities. There is no need to increase velocities above that of 3F when loading cartridges and 2F above 50 caliber.

Kevin, I would ask that you consider a chrono. Without it experiments like using 4F in cartridges is not wise. Reloading opens up all types of possibilities and one can do custom loading, but without a chrono you just do not know what you are dealing with.

My use of a chronograph started 30 years ago after using an old reloading manual for 32-20 S&W. I was reloading some 32-20 for my first 32 Winchester M&P using an old manual that stated loads for revolvers. I loaded and shot these reloads and they worked, but the report was very sharp, unlike sub-sonic revolver ammo. I contacted a friend who brought out a chrono and we were able to get actual speed, which was just a shade over 1200 fps!!!!!

I rechecked the load manual, pulled bullets, weighing them and the powder, checked my primers and everything was exactly as the manual stated. My only guess was the author misused rifle loads in the revolver section???

Bottom line, anyone who reloads should own and use a chrono when changing loading components or guns. With all the safety checks one uses when loading, this is the most important for me, since I have yet to see the velocities stated in the manuals being matched with my guns and reloads and want to know where I am. Velocities and pressures are linked and without knowing either one is not wise. A $100 investment may save a $1000 gun or a body part someday.
 
Blue Wax Lube?

You sure that's what that is Jim?

Could it be Apache Blue lube, or Carnauba Blue Wax lube, or perhaps I removed the lube and applied my secret lube before loading? Maybe even apply a soft lube prior to shooting each round? Many options out there for black powder cast loads. Each having different results at the target.


Murph
 
Published documentation suggests a 15% to 20% increase in pressures using 4F and recommend a similar reduction if volume between each grade of BP. The only valid use for FFFF powder is for priming flintlocks, using it in a pistol cartridge will definitely increase pressures and velocities. There is no need to increase velocities above that of 3F when loading cartridges and 2F above 50 caliber.

Kevin, I would ask that you consider a chrono. Without it experiments like using 4F in cartridges is not wise. Reloading opens up all types of possibilities and one can do custom loading, but without a chrono you just do not know what you are dealing with.

My use of a chronograph started 30 years ago after using an old reloading manual for 32-20 S&W. I was reloading some 32-20 for my first 32 Winchester M&P using an old manual that stated loads for revolvers. I loaded and shot these reloads and they worked, but the report was very sharp, unlike sub-sonic revolver ammo. I contacted a friend who brought out a chrono and we were able to get actual speed, which was just a shade over 1200 fps!!!!!

I rechecked the load manual, pulled bullets, weighing them and the powder, checked my primers and everything was exactly as the manual stated. My only guess was the author misused rifle loads in the revolver section???

Bottom line, anyone who reloads should own and use a chrono when changing loading components or guns. With all the safety checks one uses when loading, this is the most important for me, since I have yet to see the velocities stated in the manuals being matched with my guns and reloads and want to know where I am. Velocities and pressures are linked and without knowing either one is not wise. A $100 investment may save a $1000 gun or a body part someday.

No argument about pressures being higher with 4f. But it is still black powder and I have used it only in small capacity cases.

But, I and others have dissembled original black powder cartridges and in handgun cartridges the powder is much finer than modern 3f. Some rifle cartridges also.

I have responded more in a PM so as not to run this train farther off the rails.

Kevin
 
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