Moon Clip Question; Refinishing

[Screwball]

I recently converted my 642-1 to 9mm via buying a converted .38 cylinder (done by Pinnacle), so I have started down the road of moon clips. My original .38 cylinder is not cut for them (refinished in NP3 Plus, so didn't want to mess with it; used HKS speedloaders), and nether is my 629-1. Other two revolvers I have are a Nagant M1895 and a Ruger New Vaquero... which neither accept moon clips. 9mm moon clips are likely going to be the only ones I'll be getting.

I'm planning on using the revolver as a backup while working, so I'm making sure that it will survive what I am going to throw at it. The carbon steel cylinder will be matched to the gun, not just for looks, but because my sweat will rust up very quickly. I have a LCP with CT grip as another backup option (moving away from it due to cost of .380), and I made sure all steel parts were plated before pocket carry for the same reason. So, the only other part I'm concerned about are the moon clips.

If I do plate the moon clips, I'm going to use CCR... have a few other smaller parts that need to be done, and if I need more moon clips plated, they are easier to work with than Robar (they do stuff for me that CCR can't, like alloys and long guns). I have done quite a few guns and parts in their cera-plate, and have had nothing but positive results. Did three complete pistols, magazines for four platforms, and high use or rust parts on another five guns (bolts, charging handles, barrels, controls, and grip screws). I also had all of my M1 Garand clips done, which really made them nicer to load/use.

The moon clips I have are all S&W (right now, 30 total; might get another 20 to have on hand). When I load rounds into them, they have enough play for loading, so not that worried about tolerances. I also have a BMT loader, so not likely going to mess the clips up with use (range and carry is another story, but looking for ways to protect them while carrying them, which I think I found; I try to keep my stuff 100%, so not going to abuse them). That makes me more ok with putting the money into plating them. I've also seen Wilson Combat offering plated moon clips, so I don't think it is a bad idea.

Anyways, wanted to get some insight from people that use moon clips more then I have. Would nickel plating moon clips cause any negative issues? Is it worth it to do to prevent rust? As I said, steel in my pockets is a foregone conclusion that rust will form.

I love revolvers, but majority of my background is semi-auto pistols.

Thanks for your time.

 

[dwever]

Not sure what specifically is being asked. It could just be me.

 

[GrayGhost99]

Not just you, maybe it isn't a question?

 

[sodacan]

Too much trouble for a disposable item. Just coat them with some light oil (Break-Free would be great for this.) with your fingers.

 

[PatriotX]

Rather than spending the dough plating the looser clips, you may wish to look for some that hold the rounds a bit tighter.

I have always viewed moon clips as consumables, and haven't worried about corrosion.

There are also plastic clips available.

 

[327 Monkey]

I got tons of moonclips, probably since the day they appeared and none of them rusted.

If your bullet are waggly on the moonclip, it's because you don't have the right moonclip tickness for the case your using.

Cylinder must be cut for moonclip.

 

[Tanners Owner]

Check out revolver supply co- good people who can help ID the right moonclip for your ammo. They sell several thicknesses, though not sure if they do for J frames.

 

[Screwball]

Not just you, maybe it isn't a question?

Sorry for you guys, that is what happens when you post on an iPhone with Tapatalk...

Is it worth it to plate moon clips? Or are there any issues by doing so?

Too much trouble for a disposable item. Just coat them with some light oil (Break-Free would be great for this.) with your fingers.

They are that disposable?

I'm kind of hesitant of oil, being I do usually carry reloads in my pocket. Same reason why I never took too much on using vaseline to coat pistol lights when training... I'm the type of guy where it is going to get all over me.

I got tons of moonclips, probably since the day they appeared and none of them rusted.

If your bullet are waggly on the moonclip, it's because you don't have the right moonclip tickness for the case your using.

Cylinder must be cut for moonclip.

I'll go with the original post being hard to understand with the tolerance point...

I meant to say that plating wouldn't be messing up the tolerances, since there is some play. The moon clips I have are correct (only made one type for 9mm J-frames), and pretty much new. There isn't rounds flopping to the point that I would be worried about retention, just enough that it wouldn't bind up when loading into the cylinder.

Cylinder is cut for moon clips, and that is what will be headspacing 9mm rounds in that cylinder (which is chambered for 9x23mm).

I just edited the original post to make it more understandable. [emoji6]

 

[327 Monkey]

Plating them is a waste imo, get stainless moonclips if you worries about them to rust.

 

[WC145]

I had Pinnacle do the same conversion on my 360J 6 years, used to carry it as my BUG on the job. I had Robar coat the cylinder with NP3 due to rust issues from perspiration. I've always used S&W moonclips in my gun and have never had any rust problems of any kind with them. When I unload the empties I wipe the clips with a rag that has bit of CLP on it and that's it, they're good to go. You can't even feel the oil on them moonclip. I've been using the same 40 or 50 for the last 6 years. I always carried a couple of spare loaded moonclips in a small pill bottle with a pop off cap, not loose in my pocket.

Bottom line - Based on my experience, I wouldn't bother to coat them with anything.

 

[MWC2068]

Look at just getting the plated or stainless clips from Revolver Supply, or from TK Custom, problems and worries solved.

 

[forrestinmathews]

I use moonclips in 9mm, .38supercomp, .40, 10mm, .45.

Revolver supply is trash. Webs are too thin making them weak and absolute junk. Plastic moonclips are also trash. Waste of time if you are looking for durability. Ranch products good for .45, fair for .40 Lframe, trash for 10mm. At $0.50 a clip for .45 it's hard to complain. If it bends it gets pitched and nobody cares.

Coating the moonclips is a waste of time and money. Oil them. They hide in the gun. It won't be a problem. Wipe them down when you wipe the gun down. Tumble them if they get carbon coated.

Hearthco moonclips by Dave Hearth. They are the only moonclips I would bet my life on. The weakness of the moonclips is the web part between the inside of the cartridge hole and the hole cut for the star. This is where the clip bends and folds most often. 9mm is generally a thicker web in this part than .38/.357. The best way to get strong moonclips is to ship Dave the cylinder and have him cut custom clips. They really are A worth the money and B noticeably stronger. I have .38 Super Comp clips cut for the Lframe and some 10mm for Nframe and they are professional grade equipment.

 

[Screwball]

I've always used S&W moonclips in my gun and have never had any rust problems of any kind with them. When I unload the empties I wipe the clips with a rag that has bit of CLP on it and that's it, they're good to go. You can't even feel the oil on them moonclip. I've been using the same 40 or 50 for the last 6 years. I always carried a couple of spare loaded moonclips in a small pill bottle with a pop off cap, not loose in my pocket.



Bottom line - Based on my experience, I wouldn't bother to coat them with anything.

Thanks for your post.

I noticed the rust issues twice over the years. First, when I carried my Ruger LCP, before being plated. Literally, rust would start to form by the end of the day with pocket carry (in a Recluse holster). When I got the CT grips, I stopped carrying it until the plating was done. Don't get me wrong, I have no problem with keeping up on it, but getting rid of rust each day is not something I want to do.

The second time was a pocket knife over the course of a week (was during the plating of the LCP, because I'll always remember the "what the heck" moment). Like I mentioned, I take care of my stuff. Brand new knife, blackened steel blade (held the edge slightly better), oiled the day I got it (got it Sunday, started carrying it Monday). Think I showed someone in the office, helped a secretary open two or three boxes with it, then didn't pull it out again until the middle of the following week. Pulled it out to show my Sergeant, and the entire blade edge was covered with rust. Could barely cut paper with it. Moved back to a stainless blade the next day.

It may be overkill, but I am just worried about my battery acid sweat. With the one inside the cylinder, I'm more worried about it effecting function... but probably shouldn't worry as I tend to check the cylinder each morning before securing it in the holster.

I usually just shove two speedloaders in a dedicated pocket, so figured I'd do the same with two or three moon clips. Taking them out/putting them in my pockets each day should keep me on top of them.

Coating the moonclips is a waste of time and money. Oil them. They hide in the gun. It won't be a problem. Wipe them down when you wipe the gun down. Tumble them if they get carbon coated.

Thanks for all of that info... really a lot of help (just quoted what I am touching on, but all of it was appreciated).

Never really thought about carbon at that end, but thanks for that tip. Shooting my 642-1 for years, I always had to deal with the carbon on the front edge, but with NP3 Plus, it is easy to clean on the rest of the revolver. Just doesn't jump out at you when you

I found a decent source of S&W moon clips during last nights Giants game, so I ordered another 20 to bring my stock to 50. Hopefully S&W will still be making them when I need more. [emoji6]

I'm likely not going to plate them, but as I only have a takedown pin and some small screws/nuts going to CCR for plating, I'll probably get a quote on it.