Motor oil and filters for our cars - I have finally come to my senses and become practical in my old age

[chief38]

Note: This thread is basically for people who truly care about what oil and filter they use on their cars. I know some just bring it to their local Service Station guy and don't even ask what is being used. I suppose if you lease a car and return it after 2 or 3 years I might agree and the less costly - the better. This info is for people who buy their vehicles and intend on keeping them for a good long while. Cars and trucks are so costly now days, I'd think many who plan on driving them for a long time would care. That is what this thread is based on. Hope you get some benefit from it.

Over the last 3 decades I have used Amsoil products exclusively for all my vehicles, power equipment, generators, snow blowers, etc. It has never let me down and research over those years always places Amsoil products at the top of the heap - I don't think that's even disputable. The company makes exceptional products HOWEVER....... they come with the caveat that you don't look at price! Amsoil, as many here already know is a pyramid based sales structure outfit designed for people to become their own rep's and distributors. Not taking their quality away - just stating one of the most important reasons their prices are so high - tiered profitability I guess you'd call it. Fast forward to a year ago.........

Amsoil has continually raised their prices and now a quart of their Signature 0W20 oil with sales tax and shipping is well over $15.00 a quart. Their filters are almost $20 each. As usual I did my yearly research and last year discovered a relatively new product from Penzoil. It is their ULTRA PLATINUM Full Synthetic 0W20 motor oil made from natural gas. In the 3 different articles and as many videos as I have read and watched, Amsoil is still top dog at a rating of 98%. The Penzoil Ultra Platinum is rated at 96.5%. I had to get real and ask myself if the extra 1.5% was worth triple the price! Now, if I was driving 25,000 - 30,000 miles a year like I used to or taking my car to the track, Amsoil would still be my choice as it is still #1 (by a very small margin). But..... at an insignificant loss of 1.5% and being that I now drive under 5,000 miles a year, I just don't require or can no longer justify spending 3 times the price for the Amsoil for a 1.5% difference.

I also did some new research on the oil filters as well. Again, Amsoil usually comes out on top but recently Mobil 1 Extended Life filters came out almost the same (within a smidgeon) and by some websites and some testers, even better. Amsoil filters do a slightly better job at filtering down to 20 microns however they do become more restrictive as they are used. Mobil 1 filters are rated about the same as Amsoil filters but down to the 30 micron size. Some engineers actually rate the Mobil 1 filters superior because they are less restrictive as to the actual oil flow. Suffice it to say they are both pretty good filters and once again at a whole lot less money (Mobil 1 vs Amsoil).

I am not trying to tell anyone here that Amsoil is still not technically #1, I am just bringing to the table that there are alternatives that are for all intents and purposes 1/3 and 1/2 the price and for most of us there is absolutely no effective or noticeable difference at all! Don't take my word for it - you can do your own research if you'd like. Just make SURE you are comparing Amsoil with the Penzoil ULTRA PLATINUM (not their Platinum line which is completely different) and the Amsoil filters with the Mobil 1 EXTENDED LIFE version.

I just wanted to pass this info along as we are all looking to save a few bucks without sacrificing performance and quality if possible. If there was any real substantial difference I would still be using the Amsoil and would have never taken the time to write this thread. BTW, I just bought four, 5 quart containers of the Penzoil 0W20 Ultra Platinum from Walmart online at $26 / container. I believe it's currently on sale and there is no delivery fee. They also carry the Mobil 1 Extended Life filters at $11/ea.

I hope this enlightens a few who are interested.

Regards,
Chef38

 

[Narragansett]

I drive a 2015 VW Jetta that gets Kendall GT-1 Euro every 5 K miles. The book says 10 K. The oil is probably OK for 10K of highway miles, but the weak link is the filter. My son uses Joe Gibbs oil or Brad Penn oil, both a bit pricey. The Kendall is formulated for European high performance engines. I buy my oil by the case from Petroleum Service Co in Hanover PA. They used to be in Wilkes-Barre, PA. I think it cost me 8.00 a quart buying it by the case. Shows up in a couple days on my door step.
For a filter, I use VW OEM, and change it at 2500 miles. Filter is on top of engine. The weakest link is the filter. I would never go 10K on a filter

 

[LVSteve]

For a filter, I use VW OEM, and change it at 2500 miles. Filter is on top of engine. The weakest link is the filter. I would never go 10K on a filter

What on earth makes you think an oil filter is dead at 2500 miles? Color me way baffled and interested.

 

[VaTom]

For years when I changed my own oil, before synthetics became the norm and I became too stiff to get under the car I always used Castro Oil and Fram Oil filters. Never had an oil problem. Castrol was always recommended for higher revving, smaller displacement engines. In the last ten years of owning Toyotas I have the dealer change it. The Toyotas I own have the cartridge type filters (not spin on) and I don't want to fool with it. Toyota branded oil is Mobil 1 from what I understand. Since Virginia has annual state safety inspections I get it done then. My vehicles are always under the 10,000 mile factory recommended period when the inspections come due.

 

[Rodan]

With 7 vehicles and a motorcycle in the fleet, I'm very conscious of the cost of basic maintenance.

Though I don't change the oil in the diesels (RAM and motorhome, both Cummins) myself, I always provide the oil/filters and use Fleetguard and Shell Rotella synthetic.

For our gas engined vehicles, I mostly used Napa Gold filters which were made by Wix in the US, but I've heard that Wix sold out to a foreign company so I need to re-evaluate. For our Jeep (easiest oil change in the fleet) I use Mopar filters. Oil varies by application, but mostly either Mobil 1 synth of the specified weight or Shell Rotella in the race cars (more zinc, and less additives than most current car oils).

I change the oil at intervals for which I don't see the advantage of spending the $$$ on Amsoil or other specialty oils. I do use Amsoil/Redline, etc. on occasion for transmissions and differentials where the interval is much longer.

 

[chief38]

P

I drive a 2015 VW Jetta that gets Kendall GT-1 Euro every 5 K miles. The book says 10 K. The oil is probably OK for 10K of highway miles, but the weak link is the filter. My son uses Joe Gibbs oil or Brad Penn oil, both a bit pricey. The Kendall is formulated for European high performance engines. I buy my oil by the case from Petroleum Service Co in Hanover PA. They used to be in Wilkes-Barre, PA. I think it cost me 8.00 a quart buying it by the case. Shows up in a couple days on my door step.
For a filter, I use VW OEM, and change it at 2500 miles. Filter is on top of engine. The weakest link is the filter. I would never go 10K on a filter

Pete,
If you are describing the cartridge type paper filters (no cans) I would recommend looking into Wix and Mann brand filters if available for your particular vehicle. They are usually considered excellent performing cartridge type filters. I trend to shy away from Dealer brand filters as they usually buy them from the lowest bider and not necessarily from the best manufacturers. Not saying they are necessarily bad filters, we just don't know where they are from and who made them for the last contract fulfillment. Just like the Dealer oil....... They normally buy bulk oil and get it pumped into a 500 or 1,000 gallon tank. Who actually knows what that bulk oil actually is.

 

[Narragansett]

P

Pete,
If you are describing the cartridge type paper filters (no cans) I would recommend looking into Wix and Mann brand filters if available for your particular vehicle. They are usually considered excellent performing cartridge type filters. I trend to shy away from Dealer brand filters as they usually buy them from the lowest bider and not necessarily from the best manufacturers. Not saying they are necessarily bad filters, we just don't know where they are from and who made them for the last contract fulfillment. Just like the Dealer oil....... They normally buy bulk oil and get it pumped into a 500 or 1,000 gallon tank. Who actually knows what that bulk oil actually is.

Good idea on the filters, but I do change them out quick. I will look into it. VW, and I suppose other makers cut a national deal with an oil company for all dealerships. I have gotten Penzoil and Castrol, but i like the Kendal reputation

 

[chief38]

Good idea on the filters, but I do change them out quick. I will look into it. VW, and I suppose other makers cut a national deal with an oil company for all dealerships. I have gotten Penzoil and Castrol, but i like the Kendal rep

Good idea on the filters, but I do change them out quick. I will look into it. VW, and I suppose other makers cut a national deal with an oil company for all dealerships. I have gotten Penzoil and Castrol, but i like the Kendal reputation

I used to buy Kendal Oil when I bought my first used car when I was 17. Didn't know they were still around. That's the brand with a hand forming the international sign language "K" if I recall. After realizing my old clunker was burning oil at a rapid rate, I switched to recycled oil - it never mattered because it did not stay in the engine long - lol.

 

[taz666]

Mobil1 and Wix in my '89 turbo Dodge.

 

[Bigdog357]

I've been driving for over 50 years. I have always used the cheapest non synthetic oil and filters that I could find. I only change the oil after 7 to 8000 miles and have never had a issue with a motor related to lubrication. Once I stopped changing it myself, I use what ever oil the garage uses. My Nissan just turned over 200k, still going strong. After driving over 1 million miles I have saved a ton of money not having my oil changed every 3000 miles.

My belief has always been that the car and oil companies as well as the car dealers are the ones behind the fallacy of needing to change your oil ever 3k miles.
YMMV

 

[IAM Rand]

I went to the Amsoil website and ordered a kit to change the oil in my 2019 F150. I took it to a local shop and they charged me less than $40 to change and dispose the old stuff. I immediately noticed that the engine sounded quieter on startup. I was paying a little over $100 at the Ford Dealer to get my oil changed and not spending too much more with Amsoil. Even if I spend an extra $50 a couple times a year it is worth it. I got oil and a filter for my BMW K1600 and will try that myself. I am a cautious believer. Crazy thing, I have to get 5 quarts of oil for my K1600. My F150 uses only 1 quart more.

 

[65-2x2]

I have never worried much about it. I have never had an engine failure as the result of poor oil or cheap filters. I have been driving cars for about 60 years, so I guess I am due.

 

[Greyman50]

Used to change the oil in all our vehicles. Used Wix filters as Fram had BIG problems in late 70s and just never trusted them afterwards Castrol was best back then. My last free oil change is tomorrow on my Santa Fe so I'll be buying Wix filters and look into Mobil 1 for future changes.

 

[Rustyt1953]

We are long time Honda owners and use the oil their engineers recommend, synthetic 0W-20.

Logan does the oil changes and has a place that gives a free Mobil filter with the purchase of 4 quarts of Mobile 1.

 

[Jeff423]

I have never found a source that I trust to get honest information about oil and filters. I trust Project Farm but I'm not sure his testing actually tells you much about real world driving conditions.
I never bought in to Amsoil but I did buy the hype (and oil) from Mobil 1. It and their filters have proved satisfactory for me with my 10,000 mile changes. Both my vehicles have 250K + miles and I don't see that they use any between changes. I'm sure they do but it can't be much. I don't know if it's the best, but it's been adequate for me.

 

[Stewboy]

I went back to changing my own oil and filters three years ago precisely b/c I wanted to use Penzoil ultra Platinum w/o paying an arm and a leg. Have used K&N filters, but will definitely take a look at Mobil 1 on your recommendation.

Speaking of recommendations, I'd think twice about putting 0W-anything in my engines. Even though it's a manufacturer's recommendation on many cars, that seems to have had more to do with improved gas mileage and less to do with the life of the engine. 5-20 is as low as I'll go.

 

[Oldengineer]

I really struggle with subjective analysis of oil quality and accompanying engine life without any definitive directly observable objective data. I personally ran bearing temperature studies as a base engine enginer for Ford. This was a long time ago and Mobil 1 came out on top. Teardown results showed only very minor wear on piston skirts, valve stems and guides. I later introduced Mobil to Ernie Elliot in the mid-80's and know that he secretly had Mobil 1 in Pure Oil drums to keep their (Pure Oil) sponsorship. I was then the motorsports supervisor for Ford. Without a carefully designed experiment that controls the variables I recommend using the best synthetic oil that you can afford ‐- and change it regularly


Tom H.

 

[servmgr64]

I have been an Amsoil user since 1980. I use it in all of the internal combustion engines we have including the diesel tractors. Believe in the product and will pay the extra price. I use the OEM filters as they meet the requirements of the manufacturer. I also use the gear lube and transmission fluid. I guess I drank the whole pitcher of kool-aid.
Scott

 

[GnarlsR2]

Engine oil and filters have been at the top of the number of posts and threads on just about every automotive related internet forum for decades.

There's nothing necessarily invalid about the thousands of anecdotal experiences with a particular motor oil or oil filter. For most DIYers, it's whatever turns your crank.

However, there is one particular test done by Consumer Reports published in 1996 that presents very conclusive evidence about engine motor oils and wear factors.

All of my vehicles, since I started driving and doing my own basic maintenance in 1964, have high mileage. None have ever been diagnosed as an engine failure due to engine oil lubrication properties.

Is synthetic oil better than dino? If NASCAR chooses Mobil 1 for their $150,000 engines, and a $10 million Formula 1 race engine uses synthetic oil, it must be better than anything else.

I use whatever the auto manufacturer recommends until the warranty is up at about 50,000 miles, then I switch from 0W-20 to 5W-20 because I live in the Arizona desert. For my 2013 Toyota Corolla, I typically buy either STP synthetic or Mobil 1 full synthetic. I've used Wix oil filters for the last 100K+ miles.

My 2001 Toyota Camry has 348,000 miles. It still gets 28 MPG and does not burn a quart of oil in 5,000 miles. I've used STP Pro Formula 10W-40 conventional motor oil for the last several years.

If I lived in a very cold climate, I would be using all synthetic oils and grease.

I have a number of Blackstone Laboratories analysis reports. My Corolla just turned over 180,000 miles and I will send an engine oil sample to Blackstone soon. I've attached the last Blackstone report done in February 2021.

 

[LVSteve]

Don't know what that pupuportal website is trying to do, but my computer is giving it a hard "no".