MP10 Charging Handle marks

I was asking Vfin what the production date on his Gun/Box, because he said his Raptor worked as did mine. Maybe there was a change in the upper.
And I fixed the Question. Sorry wasnt very clear.

NO DATE ON THE BOX (or anywhere else) Trotter.

vfin
 
...The groove for the carrier key needs to be .025 to .03 deeper for a .050 wall, so the hole on the end needs to be elongated or raised .025 to .03 inch....

Things got busy around here, and the Raptor Ambi charging handle fitment got shoved to the back burner for a while.
My hometown gunsmith, after ordering the proper ball endmill, deepened the channel by .008" for a proper fit and function. By the way it fit and the measurements I took before milling it out, I was guessing .10" to .012" would be enough. If he would have taken out the .025" to .030" indicated above, that would have made the remaining area very thin and weak.
I just don't understand how the fit of the 7.62 Raptor Ambi. charging handles can vary so widely from one rifle to the next.
My brother has a M&P10 on the way, and it will be interesting to see how our modified handle fits it. Really wish we would have waited to see how an unmodified handle fit.
 
I just got my 7.62 Raptor in the mail Saturday. I tried to fit it today and it binds. The binding occurs when trying to close the bolt, but not until the bolt is 3/4 of the way closed. On mine it really looks like if I took off the nib on top it would clear enough to function. I haven't decided if I want to cut it and hope it works or just send it back to Rainier. I purchased my M&P-10 in July 2013, not sure what the production date is.

FYI, I have purchased several 5.56 Rainier Raptor handles from Amazon vendors, DSG, and Rainier themselves. All came in non descript plastic bags except a couple that I purchased directly from Rainier in September 2013 that came in retail plastic packaging. The 7.62 I just purchased directly from Rainier came in a non descript plastic bag. It wouldn't surprise me if there is a copy out there, but the five 5.56 units I have are identical.
 
BroncoAZ. If you have the bolt locked back and you try to pull the charging handle back, you should see the same binding issue.
There are some knockoffs, but Rainier is dealing with them so we consumers will not have to question if we are getting the real thing or not.
 
I don't think it is possible to get the rifle reassembled with the binding it has now, without significantly forcing it I could not get the bolt to go into battery so I could pin the upper in place.

Thanks
 
I got my Raptor @ Primary Arms a couple of weeks ago for about $25 off ($69?) and tried to assemble the gun today with no joy.
I found scuffing of the phosphate coating on top of the gas key from my (carefully) try and try, and trying again to lube and fit it together.
I called Ranier, and was left with no choice but to leave a message "Please get in touch...". I ended up calling them back since I didn't want to see the day go past with no response from them.
They said- "Oh yeah, there's a string of threads (bad pun,huh) about fitment issues for S&Ws and some other LR308 style guns out there, If you'd rather, send it back to us and we'll refund your purchase price (no mention about my shipping,ect. though) -or- you could grind on it to make it fit, but, if you touch it with a cutting tool we won't even consider warranty coverage of the handle....."
I passed up the latest ambi handle by Phase 5 (who assured me that thiers would work without problem) because I've been acheing for the Raptor since they were introduced (but just NEVER available for .308) and pounced on the heavily discounted specimen I ended up with.
Now I'm stuck either spending treasure for someone else to mill it or a fair amount of personal effort to get it to work in my gun.
Does anyone out there think that the clearance problem could be (largely?) overcome by polishing off the top of the gas key instead of trying to deepen the channel of the Raptor? I'm tempted to try that route first, before I go hogging out the groove on a comparatively thin aluminum charging handle.....
 
Hey guys,
I bit the bullet and bought the raptor. When I first put it in dry, it binded, lubed it up and worked it in, I charged the handle till it moved almost freely took it out cleaned and relubbed. Found the nipple on the top front rubbing, filed the nipple off, cleaned and relubbed, it works great, no need to deepen the valley. Awesome handle, million times better then stock, if you have a scope its a must.
In all I just chopped the nipple off the top, lubed and cleaned it a few times and that's it. So don't go strait away grinding stuff, I really didn't even have to cut the nipple off but, it did help it move easier..
Hope this helps,
James
 

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