MP15-22 parts diagrams and list?

[51reva]

I just tried searching the S&W site for parts diagrams and parts list. I found nothing. I was thinking of trying to buy the latest muzzle brake barrel for my "plain jane" barreled 15-22. Any help? Basicly, I wanted to get a price. I will prolly end up threading my barrel.
THX, Mike

 

[27 Beck]

I just tried searching the S&W site for parts diagrams and parts list. I found nothing. I was thinking of trying to buy the latest muzzle brake barrel for my "plain jane" barreled 15-22. Any help? Basicly, I wanted to get a price. I will prolly end up threading my barrel.
THX, Mike

Seems as though S&W has not put out a parts diagram or list yet. May be difficult to get S&W to sell you a complete barrel, as the ones with the flash hider should just be starting to ship any time now. S&W would not even sell me an extractor to replace the one that blew out, they wanted the entire gun back for "observation". (my " " s)

 

[rip3000gt]

I just tried searching the S&W site for parts diagrams and parts list. I found nothing. I was thinking of trying to buy the latest muzzle brake barrel for my "plain jane" barreled 15-22. Any help? Basicly, I wanted to get a price. I will prolly end up threading my barrel.
THX, Mike

I'm planning on doing the same. I want to be able to put the gun back to original when I want. I have a feeling it will be awhile until they have barrels available though.

 

[tacticool22]

It looks like S&W finally released the threaded barrel option. There is some kind of adapter for non threaded barrels so you can put regular flash hiders and such on the non threaded ones. I threaded mine in 1/2 hour on an old manual lathe. Some posters said they got theirs threaded for $50..00 or so.
Maybe someone here who is good at taking pictures and explaining things clearly could make up a How to Keep Your 15-22 Alive book. Pictures, specs, exploded diagrams, do's, dont's Etc. I would buy one.
I loved the How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive book when I had my VW's.

 

[51reva]

Thanks for the input. I am gonna thread my own bbl.

 

[BELT_FED]

make sure that u make a jig to insert in the barrel to locate it... the i.d. of the barrel will not be true to the o.d... the barrel isnt long enough for two attemps so do it right the first time... make sure u recrown the barrel and chamfer it well before you start threading cause the recess on the factory barrel will make a sharp edge... hope this helps ive threaded a sh** load of these things they arent to bad

 

[51reva]

make sure that u make a jig to insert in the barrel to locate it... the i.d. of the barrel will not be true to the o.d... the barrel isnt long enough for two attemps so do it right the first time... make sure u recrown the barrel and chamfer it well before you start threading cause the recess on the factory barrel will make a sharp edge... hope this helps ive threaded a sh** load of these things they arent to bad

This jig for inside the bbl. Is it to keep the bbl. from "pushing off"/away from the threading tool????? If so, I had planned on keep the bbl. very close to the lathe chuck, so it wouldn't push off, while threading. How much are you threading? Around .625"?
Thx.,Mike

 

[BELT_FED]

.625 is about the standard on a 1/2-28 as far as ive seen all the aftermarket flash hiders have atleast that much thread depth... the jig is just to set it up with the barrels are not true... the i.d. doesnt run on the same center line as the o.d. there for u cant just throw them in a lathe and turn them and they be right... you have to indicate them in... so that if you screw something on the end of them it wont blow it off ... most flash hides have a through hole in them just larger than the bullet so it needs to be right.. not saying it has to be perfect but it does need to be close. if you ever plan on putting a can on it it has to be very close

 

[tacticool22]

.625 is about the standard on a 1/2-28 as far as ive seen all the aftermarket flash hiders have atleast that much thread depth... the jig is just to set it up with the barrels are not true... the i.d. doesnt run on the same center line as the o.d. there for u cant just throw them in a lathe and turn them and they be right... you have to indicate them in... so that if you screw something on the end of them it wont blow it off ... most flash hides have a through hole in them just larger than the bullet so it needs to be right.. not saying it has to be perfect but it does need to be close. if you ever plan on putting a can on it it has to be very close

I couldn't have said it better. You can use a 4 jaw chuck and indicate the bore not the O.D. It's slower, but way more precise.

 

[BELT_FED]

you dont even need the four jaw if you have skill or a varity of shim stock lol... the main thing is getting it trued up... and .001 goes a long way on 1/2-28 threads so go slow or you will have wished you had