MP15T Modular Rail Removal

[wvyote]

I am new to AR's and researched several weeks before deciding to go with the MP 15T. I lucked out and found one last week with the 1-8 5r barrel. I am in the process of cleaning it to go to the range to shot it. I'm stumped on how to remove the front rail system. The manual states to remove the stainless set screw. Theres the problem mine doesn't have a set screw. I've been noising around on here a few weeks and with the knowledge I've seen on here I'm sure someone knows how to remove it. Thanks WVYOTE

 

[wvyote]

Your kidding nobody knows. The tech at S&W really didn't know either.

 

[Hoss0432]

Depends on witch of the two you have. One has troy folding battle sights front and rear. If so it has a QR similar to the troy TRX. As for the other one it has magpul folding sights.

Now if you need I could do step by step only if you Need!!!!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Argonnakid]

If it has 4 hex headed bolts on the barrel nut, it's those bolts you loosen to remove the handguard. As you said your new to AR's, I'll kind of walk you thru it. This all depends to which rail system you have as HOSS said. This is for the Magpul version.

If you shoulder the rifle look at the area of the handguard that is facing you. You should see 2 hex headed bolts on each side. It is these bolts that attach the quad-rail to the upper receiver. If this is a brand new rifle, you might find that the bolts are very tight. And if you do remove the quad-rail, you need to make sure you tighten them up fairly well when you reinstall it. Loose rails mess with aim. Whatever you do, don't strip out the bolts. That makes for cussing and a real bad mood. Pay attention to which hole you pull the bolts out of and which bolt was in the hole. One bolt on each side is shorter than the other. Once you do this once, you can do it in your sleep.

 

[wvyote]

No I figured it out. It would be nice if the manual on the firearm was correct. I actually called S&W and got a answer that was incorrect. I had 4 screws to take out. Just didn't want to screw up a $1400 dollar gun. Thanks for the input though. This site was a factor in my buying a S&W and I love it so far, very accurate just what I was looking for.

 

[Argonnakid]

Glad we could help.

 

[wvyote]

Argaonnakid you are right on target. I waited for a reply and then got inpatient and loosened those screws. It came right off. I'm a bolt action guy just learning the ropes. Thanks for the help.

 

[Argonnakid]

By the way, Welcome to the forum.

 

[Argonnakid]

I like my bolt guns too. You will find that everyone in here is friendly and ready to help with a issues you might come across. I do have a suggestion. Change out the factory grip. I found that the Magpul MAID grips give it a more comfortable feel for me. A million companies make grips and you can find something that works for you. That is a simple swap too. Just watch out for the spring that the grip holds in place. It is the rear take down indent pin spring.

 

[don5]

Welcome to the forum as well. I am from the western part of WVA, along the Ohio River. Glad you joined us!

 

[Maddmax]

I am new to AR's and researched several weeks before deciding to go with the MP 15T. I lucked out and found one last week with the 1-8 5r barrel. I am in the process of cleaning it to go to the range to shot it. I'm stumped on how to remove the front rail system. The manual states to remove the stainless set screw. Theres the problem mine doesn't have a set screw. I've been noising around on here a few weeks and with the knowledge I've seen on here I'm sure someone knows how to remove it. Thanks WVYOTE

Careful taking that quad on and off. I hand tighten every one before I "torque" it down tight. Doesn't hurt to check them now and then being they do go through a heat and cool when shooting. Things have a tendency to not want to stay tight after awhile. Lok-tite can be its own problems too (esp. in that not the best to get at area).

It's a bit time consuming with that rail,but I use a plastic bore tip for patches and a FIBER rod and "fish" around,in,out and around all the slots lubing the barrel. I had a small swab (smaller than 410) that got in there just fine,but can't find any now).

First time around I dis-assembled the whole thing (same as yours) and Frog Lubed the living daylights out of it per the instructions. I heated the barrel (per FL instructions) with a hair dryer and applied the FL on the heavy side,kept it plenty warm durring the 60-90 minute "seasoning" process. Figured that would give it a better/longer run for the money being hid under the quad rail. I "fish around lube/wipe" with the rod and plastic bore tip in-between the BIG all out cleanings.

What I like about the Frog Lube. It doesn't seem to be heat sensitive and the heat does "bring it back out" to play,where the oils seem to burn off quicker. Esp when dealing with the barrel. Frog Lube is also polymer safe. They say it's good for cleaning and keeping the barrel clean,but I prefer to use the OTIS Bore Cleaner or Hoppes #9. I will run a patch of FL through the barrel and pull clean at the end. It does leave a light coat to protect,but not heavy enough to be a problem.

 

[digital808]

What size hex wrench was used to take off quad rail screws? My 2 sets i have doesn't have the correct size.

 

[ihaschzbrgr]

I like my bolt guns too. You will find that everyone in here is friendly and ready to help with a issues you might come across. I do have a suggestion. Change out the factory grip. I found that the Magpul MAID grips give it a more comfortable feel for me. A million companies make grips and you can find something that works for you. That is a simple swap too. Just watch out for the spring that the grip holds in place. It is the rear take down indent pin spring.

The MOE+ grip is actually pretty comfortable as well.