My $0.02 on lock delete plug kits.

any4xx

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I finally decided to remove the internal locks from my pair of 627s. A bit of research showed that TK Custom and Original Precision seem to be the go-to brands. I ordered one from TKC and found that it DID plug the hole, but it sat noticeably below the level of the side of the frame. My OCD was in overdrive so it came back out and I ordered a pair from OP. Those two showed up today. MUCH nicer flush fit on both guns. So my limited experience says both will work. But the OP kit makes the hole disappear a lot better than the kit from TKC.

I just wanted to give my short report in case anyone else here is contemplating the same modification.
 
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I finally decided to remove the internal locks from my pair of 627s. A bit of research showed that TK Custom and Original Precision seem to be the go-to brands. I ordered one from TKC and found that it DID plug the hole, but it sat noticeably below the level of the side of the frame. My OCD was in overdrive so it came back out and I ordered a pair from OP. Those two showed up today. MUCH nicer flush fit on both guns. So my limited experience says both will work. But the OP kit makes the hole disappear a lot better than the kit from TKC.

I just wanted to give my short report in case anyone else here is contemplating the same modification.
I have used a few from TK with no problems at all. Don't know about the ones from OP.
 
I’ve plugged a 617 in the past.

You know, if somebody was really sharp, they could make the plug look like a screw head (like the Marlin safety delete).

And then if they wanted to take it a step further, they could make the lock functional using the screw slot rather than a key.

I recently bought a used M69 with the lock. I’m over it. It has the 2 piece barrel. The gun does that silly powder burn weirdness on the cylinder as well. <A whole lot of “to do” about nothing. It s good looking, accurate gun!
 
Only two of my Smiths have the lock - my 617 and my 637. Replaced the locks with the Original Precisions as soon as each got the DA slowed down by the metal tabs holding the locks. Both are stainless, and he matches the color and finish well with his different choices of plugs.
 
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I've got a TK plug in my 686, and it's definitely below the level of the frame.

I don't really care enough to replace it with another, however. I only installed it in the first place because S&W left some extra metal when they machined the lock hole. I figured if I was going to take out the lock to clean that up, I wasn't putting it back in.
 
I have OP and TK plugs. OP offers more colors and the plug is flat on both ends. TK is "rounded" on the outside edge so it shows more.
Both sit slightly below the surface of the frame.

Pics: The rounded, polished SS plug in my 686 is TKcustoms.
The squared-off black one in my 386PD is Original Precision.
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The TK is slightly easier to install due to the way the groove is cut, but the "flat top" OP fits slightly better.

Both do their job just fine.
 

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No more lock guns in the safe, but if I run across one of the N frame scandium + titanium wonderguns, that might change. I don't see S&W reintroducing any of them in the near future (besides the current production 329PD).

I've installed 2 of the OP plugs, though I was disappointed they didn't make a polished blued version. The stainless one was perfect.
 
No more lock guns in the safe, but if I run across one of the N frame scandium + titanium wonderguns, that might change. I don't see S&W reintroducing any of them in the near future (besides the current production 329PD).

I've installed 2 of the OP plugs, though I was disappointed they didn't make a polished blued version. The stainless one was perfect.
I believe TK has blued plugs available now.
 
Did you put it in the wrong way? I’ve noticed most plugs are asymmetrical. The groove in them is not in the middle but favors one side.
 
Did you put it in the wrong way? I’ve noticed most plugs are asymmetrical. The groove in them is not in the middle but favors one side.
Definitely installed in the proper direction. The inboard side of each brand is about the same and only a few millimeters thick. I should have measured them both but I did not. I forgot to mention that the TK plugs are slotted on their full circumference which makes them easier to install but does not keep them from turning. Not that I imagine that would ever cause an issue. The OP plugs are only slotted on two sides so that the plug must be properly clocked for them to be properly installed. I’m guessing that someone along the way hasn’t noticed this and has installed them without full engagement of the retainer. I do like that once properly installed they won’t turn, but again, I can’t imagine that it would be any problem if they do.
 
Definitely installed in the proper direction. The inboard side of each brand is about the same and only a few millimeters thick. I should have measured them both but I did not. I forgot to mention that the TK plugs are slotted on their full circumference which makes them easier to install but does not keep them from turning. Not that I imagine that would ever cause an issue. The OP plugs are only slotted on two sides so that the plug must be properly clocked for them to be properly installed. I’m guessing that someone along the way hasn’t noticed this and has installed them without full engagement of the retainer. I do like that once properly installed they won’t turn, but again, I can’t imagine that it would be any problem if they do.
I see your pics now. That does look a little off. I’ve used TK, Original Precision, and Jennings. They’ve all been about the same.
 
I designed and made the first plugs (with the help of a few members on this forum) and made a truck load of them. I did it for the older members on here to help sale the new guns. I shipped around the world. Then health problems hit me and I wasn't able to make them for a number of years. I got my heart fixed and started to make again and the wife got breast cancer and I stopped again. Everyone copied (tried) and when to using the spring and fork the held the lock in. That spring was one of two that failed in the lock that caused the frailer that locked the gun up were it couldn't fire. I sit back and he-ha when I see write ups on here by Machine Shops can't make them the same as me. I guess it takes a Dumb WV Hick Union Electrician to get it done. I'm 73 now and was working in Morgantown, WV at a new powerhouse when I made the first ones and gave it to the ones that helped me. I didn't own a Smith with a lock until this year 2025. I have missed out on shooting for 15 years due to my heart problems. I shot Bullseye for years with my 10-32 (model 10 converted to a 32 Long) with a 8 3/8-inch barrel. Sad part is I can't hold it up with one hand to shoot it any more. I haven't wrote this much on here since Lee was running the forum. I miss sitting at gun Shows and talking with him. He was a very smart Man.
 
I just choose to ignore the partially hidden lock
In my mind if I do not look at it it is not there!
In all reality, owning several 629 handguns of course in 44 mag I have never ever had an issue
 
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