My 627's frame cracked in <100 rounds, what to expect?

hitpure

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Wondering how others may have handle similar situations, while I wait until Monday to call Smith & Wesson. I have a S&W Model 627 "Pro Series" stainless revolver, purchased 2012. Its aggregate round count is <100 rounds. Just got back from a brief range outing, pulled it out of the holster to clean / inspect, and discovered a crack in the frame! Hope the pictures upload properly, and pardon the holster dust.

In the meantime, in your experience, what can I expect from S&W customer support in regards to a fix (or replacement)? Will they cover this under their usual warranty?

Also, FWIW, this revolver also locked up after 50 or so rounds, because as it turns out, the cylinder hand broke. S&W fixed that for me a few months ago (8 week turnaround time for the fix, which they charged me the freight). Can you feel my pain?

Thanks in advance,
Hitpure

Addendum:
Uploaded pix to follow...
 
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Uploaded pictures of the cracked 627 frame

Uploaded pictures of the cracked 627 frame
 

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Funny....three posts simultaneously. Guess we were all waiting for the pics!
 
Three posters were simultaneously wrong! That is an extremely dangerous crack! Do not leave the gun exposed! Even unloaded it will explode at any moment! Package it up and send it to me for safe disposal right away!

Seriously, read this thread: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/94072-faqs.html It contains more than most of us need but it is fun to read.
 
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Don't be embarrassed, it happens a lot, and it's a bit of fun around here.


Now that you know it a side plate, take the time to view this short video describing it's removal.
Uninformed people will sometimes damage the gun by trying to pry the plate off.


[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhUHVcVb_V0[/ame]
 
It hurts less to be educated by these kind souls than by some fellow at S&W.
 
Good vid from Brownell's as usual.
I usually place a soft clean rag down on my work-surface and turn the revolver over so the side-plate is on the downside. Then use a screwdriver handle to "rap" the grip-frame. If done the way he shows, you risk those sharp edges on the side-plate scratching your pretty little Smith when it pops loose.
 
That's a dangerous crack....send it to my ffl and I'll take it off your hands. :-P
 
Trust me, if that's the only mistake you make over a lifetime of firearm ownership, you will not be the norm. However reading and asking questions will go a long way towards minimizing these kinds of mistakes. As you've discovered, this is a great place to get that kind of information and education. And as the saying goes, the only dumb question is the one you don't ask. ;)
 
Uploaded pictures of the cracked 627 frame

The only thing I see in those pictures is the seam where the sideplate is fitted. That is not a frame crack. It is normal.

Unless you are pointing out something different than what I see, go enjoy your revolver!

EDIT: I see that several others already posted that the "crack" was the sideplate seam. I do have something constructive to add, however.

The video from Brownells is very good, BUT. . . the video did not give the mandatory instruction about screw placement. While it is true that newer guns are pretty obvious, older guns require that the screws go BACK INTO THE EXACT SAME HOLE THEY CAME FROM because the screw that holds on the cylinder is fitted, and the screw in the middle hole will have a rounded head, while the screw that goes into the rear hole has a flat head to fit under the stock. THEREFORE, it is best to get into the habit of always returning the screws to the hole from which they were removed, regardless of the age of the revolver. :)
 
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So I wonder how many calls a day S&W receives for complaints about cracked frames. Its kind of a compliment though, when you can get the side plate fit so tight it looks like a crack, but it takes some people a few years to notice it.
 
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