My 642 cylinder yoke is FROZEN in the frame. WHY???

[nitesite]

Hi Y'all~~

Looks like I am going to send it to Smiff and Western for Warranty Work.

I've owned many revolvers (mostly S&Ws) for decades.

I bought a no lock 642 about six years ago, and it was then put in a truck console where it stayed until now. Twelve rounds thru it.

When my dad brought it to me for a cleaning I could not pull the trigger, and couldn't swing the cylinder out. It was completely locked. Immoveable in every way. Cylinder latch worked fine and I could see the cylinder rod was poking out the front lug.

I pulled the side plate and nothing was amiss. Looked new.

So I used a plastic hammer to strike the cylinder and try to unload the damn thing. It took many taps and it only swung a millimeter at a time. Now it is swung out and cleared and the cylinder spins like a new gun, but I cannot move the damn yoke at all. Not closing back up, and not forward and out of the frame. Yes, the side plate screws are still removed.

I'm going to send it in, but WHAT THE HECK can be the cause of this frozen yoke? The innards look pristine when the side plate is off.

 

[roscoepc]

This is just a guess but I'd say the cause is it sitting in the truck console for 6 years and not being either used or cleaned.. When something is not used, mechanical or otherwise, they have a tendency to not work right for a variety of reasons, in this case I'd say the lube in the gun has gummed up and even possibly has some rust on the yoke's inner workings...

If it were my gun, I'd remove the grips and hose it down REALLY good with a penetrant like PB Blaster at least once a day and work the yoke until it freed up and then do a really good cleaning/oiling on her.

Then it's a once a month at least deal to clean/handle/ shoot the weapon! At least the cleaning/handling part!!

Good Luck with her!!

 

[Hondo44]

Save yourself a lot'a time and trouble. It's not a warranty issue.

I'm very surprised you didn't try (or didn't say you tried) some sort of lubricant on it before tapping! What you have is "dissimilar metal corrosion" between the alloy frame and the steel yoke. Leaving in a truck its entire life thru all seasons was a perfect recipe for this to occur.

Get a gun penetrant product like Breakfree CLP, KanoKroil or even LiquidWrench. Apply generously in the retaining screw hole at the front of the side plate and to the yoke hinge. You've already "broken it loose". If it doesn't start moving in a few minutes, soak overnight.

Once you move and then remove the yoke, the sticking area will be obvious. It may need some tapping with your plastic hammer to get the yoke out. Remove all signs of corrosion which will likely be coated in a white powdery substance. It will require some fine emery cloth polishing on the corroded areas. Re-oil and keep in the house.

 

[nitesite]

Thanks all. I had already thought about that scenario, and I failed to mention that before I even tried to swing the cylinder open I dunked it into a half gallon of kerosene and other stuff (Ed's Red) and left it submerged for three days.

This is really perplexing. And I am ripping the old man for being so neglectful.

 

[nitesite]

I have a can of KanoKroil so if Ed's Red does nothing I will go for the real penetrating stuff.

Old man pissed me off with this. Gave it to him expecting that it would be cared for.

 

[F75gunslinger]

Before returning to Smith and Wesson I would suggest removing the cylinder and yoke and soaking them in a mixture of acetone and transmission fluid. Also using some parts cleaner or penetrating fluid on the front locking bolt. Also make sure the pin in the yoke that enters the frame is clean and oiled, and that the shaft it goes into in the frame is also clean.My guess is that something that was oiled has gummed up over time due to lack of use ( if the cylinder release was working well, my bet would be the yoke to frame relationship). Also keep in mind that the 642 has a finish over the aluminum frame that may not stand up well to any amount of soaking in a cleaner.

 

[Green Frog]

... and give the old man a rusty hammer to keep in the truck.. some people should not be turned loose with guns! If, OTOH, he is properly contrite, perhaps scheduling frequent Father/Son trips to the range would be a win-win for both of you (as well as whatever gun you guys agree on. )

Froggie

 

[steelslaver]

I would let it soak for a while longer. Look at the end of the yoke screw. Is it the old style or the new style with the spring loaded end? If it is the spring loaded type did every thing come out? Use a dental pick and carb cleaner in the yoke screw hole to clear it the soak with penetrating oil. Work the cylinder and yoke in and out a bit. Then if it still won't come out I would get a piece of brass and place it along side the cylinder onto the back of the yoke tap it with a LIGHT hammer blow, work the yoke, tap work tap work until it came out.


Good luck

 

[gwpercle]

Try this old school trick first...soak it in kerosene for a week .
Any penetrating oil can be used but kerosene was usually on hand and cheap.
I've saved many a rusted up tool with the kerosene soak after finding them left in the yard by one of my kids.
I've soaked really rusty things for a month or so....don't get in a hurry !
Gary

 

[one eye joe]

... and give the old man a rusty hammer to keep in the truck.. some people should not be turned loose with guns! If, OTOH, he is properly contrite, perhaps scheduling frequent Father/Son trips to the range would be a win-win for both of you (as well as whatever gun you guys agree on. )

Froggie

I AGREE, Froggie. TAKE IT EASY ON THE OL' MAN.....

I'M SURE THAT HE MUST HAVE FORGIVEN COUNTLESS MISTAKES THAT THE OP MADE AS A KID......

IMHO, THE OP SHOULD USE THIS AS AN OPPORTUNITY TO SPEND SOME QUALITY TIME, WITH HIS DAD---WHILE HE STILL CAN......

 

[oink]

Yeah, cut your old man some slack.

 

[nitesite]

Actually he is my FIL. But I call him Pops or Dad.

 

[nitesite]

Okay, I have swept aside the kerosene and Ed's Red and gone to Kano Kroil.

Tonight I took a 1" wood dowel and slotted the end to accommodate the cylinder pin, and after the cylinder had been bashed back and forth maybe 5-6 times well my adult son and I we went to town on it.

Trying to drive the opened cylinder out of the frame. I held the 642 and the dowel and Logan hammered.

ZERO movement of the yoke... it refused to come out with hammering. It didn't even budge. I cannot move the cylinder in or out of the gun at all.

The front side plate screw is the spring loaded design and it is completely removed and the plunger moved free but it is out of the gun. Clean removal of the front screw.

My Father In Law will just have to get his own gun because I am going to invite him over and let him see me throw this gun in the pond.

 

[DT75]

...Then if it still won't come out I would get a piece of brass and place it along side the cylinder onto the back of the yoke tap it with a LIGHT hammer blow, work the yoke, tap work tap work until it came out.

^^^^
This.

Hitting at the back of the cylinder sounds to me like a good recipe for bending the yoke.
It would be more effective to try to concentrate any applied force to the yoke, as close to the hinge point as possible.

 

[marinevet]

Did anyone check the extractor rod............loose........would cause the same

 

[notsofast]

So it's a paperweight as is, the chemicals have failed, now try some heat. One of those butane mini torches maybe, if it works great, if it doesn't it's still a broken gun

 

[JDinAZ]

What you have is a yoke that has grown in o.d. from corrosion. There is barely any clearance between the yoke pin and frame. This is aliken to trying to slide the Z axis assembly up and off an old horizontal mill without completely cleaning the Z ways first. The few thou of corrosion cannot pass thru the space available.
It will take ALOT of small movements to "burnish" the corrosion down enough to allow the yoke to be removed. Keep in mind that the yoke pin has a shoulder cut in it same as the J frame 60 yoke I have laying beside me. The corrosion has grown between the frame and shoulder thus filling the shoulder.
Spritz WD or PB in the yoke screw hole. Wiggle. Blow out with air. Spritz repeat. Long process but it should work the yoke loose. Time and a lot of gentle wiggling will be needed to revive that one. Just relax slow down and it will come out. Hopefully the yoke is not bent at this point from hammering. If so it's sorta not a big deal. Just throw a yoke alignment pin in it and realign the yoke when you get done.

 

[gwpercle]

For a penetrating oil give a ATF / Acetone 50/50 mix a try while following post #17's directions.
ATF / Acetone is an outstanding penetrating oil....the acetone takes it into tiny spaces...I've seen test done with commerical penetrating oils and ATF / acetone beat them all. Go slow and let the parts soak in between attempts. Extended soaking times help in a big way.
Be sure and use regular (not synthetic) ATF , Dexron type.
Nix the big hammer and brute force ...it will only bend something, go slow , be gentle and be persistent .
Good luck ,
Gary

 

[steelslaver]

Most guns don't respond well to the "don't force it, get a bigger hammer" school of thought. No doubt there is corrosion and probably at this point some of the wear surfaces are galled. Lots of time, light oil and taps will work.

A 2O ton press will get it apart to, FOREVER

 

[Hondo44]

The safest way to dislodge the yoke:

With the yoke and cyl swung open insert a brass rod or punch thru the chamber at 4:00 o'clock. It will contact the back of the yoke very close to the yoke hinge pin. Tapping here will have the least chance of knocking the yoke out of square or doing any other damage. Many smaller taps is better than big whacks. Increase the taps gradually in force until removal begins.