My 642 cylinder yoke is FROZEN in the frame. WHY???

[sand springs]

remove the sideplate, remove the hammer spring, remove the hammer.
remove the cylinder release button. the part called the bolt can be removed from the inside(goes to center of cylinder)
insert long punch into hole behind the cylinder, this will free the lock on the cylinder swingout.

 

[Hondo44]

Ya gotta' read the thread folks!

The latch is perfectly functioning; right in the 1st post!

 

[nitesite]

Well, I admit that I used misdirected blows at the beginning, but nothing very forceful when I was hitting the back of the cylinder instead of @Hondo44 s great suggestion of going thru the cylinder hole at 4-o'clock.

So I have dunked this gun in Kano Kroil for weeks and tapped on the yoke every few days thru the chamber.

The cylinder spins like a new gun. Since he brought it to me I cannot swing the cylinder either closed or fully open without many blows with a plastic hammer. Like a mm at a time x40 hits. The cylinder latch works like a new gun. It just won't swing open or shut for anything.

I'm nowhere close to being able to remove the yoke thru the front of the frame. The pivot is fused. FUSED.

This is going NO WHERE. I'm just going to hand the revolver we gifted to my FIL back to him and kindly say that it is beyond my ability to help.

I don't think even S&W can get it apart without serious damage.

It's not worth my time, effort or frustration. He can do with it as he pleases which apparently is what he did for the past six years.

 

[.38SuperMan]

My wife has 317 that the cylinder suddenly wouldn't swing open. She shot it recently and cleaned it then a week later the cylinder wouldn't open. The cylinder release worked as in your case but no luck cocking or opening the cylinder.

I spent a little time carefully looking at all contact points and it appeared the ejector was catching on the lug under the barrel where the end of the ejector nests when the cylinder was closed.

In the end I discovered the ejector had unscrewed a couple of turns making it too long and catching on the lug. A little oil and two gentle turns of the rod and it opened like a new gun.

 

[RGVshooter]

Is the gun loaded?

Has any of the rounds been fired? I've seen revolvers completely lock up with the cylinder extremely difficult to open after firing one or two rounds. What happened was one of the unfired rounds had a bullet shift forward out of it's case jamming the cylinder. That and another case that happened to me was a fired primer backing out, jamming the cylinder from the inside.

And finally. There is a possibility that the ejector rod loosened & backed out. That can do it also.

 

[kaaskop49]

My usual solution for firearms-related problems that I cannot handle is to take the gun in question to my gunsmith for a professional opinion. Surprising no one has mentioned this.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

P.S. Belated Happy New Year to all!

 

[Muss Muggins]

My Father In Law will just have to get his own gun because I am going to invite him over and let him see me throw this gun in the pond.

Lemme know when you're doing that. I want to wade out into the pond and catch it . . .

 

[Hondo44]

My wife has 317 that the cylinder suddenly wouldn't swing open. She shot it recently and cleaned it then a week later the cylinder wouldn't open. The cylinder release worked as in your case but no luck cocking or opening the cylinder.

I spent a little time carefully looking at all contact points and it appeared the ejector was catching on the lug under the barrel where the end of the ejector nests when the cylinder was closed.

In the end I discovered the ejector had unscrewed a couple of turns making it too long and catching on the lug. A little oil and two gentle turns of the rod and it opened like a new gun.

Is the gun loaded?

Has any of the rounds been fired? I've seen revolvers completely lock up with the cylinder extremely difficult to open after firing one or two rounds. What happened was one of the unfired rounds had a bullet shift forward out of it's case jamming the cylinder. That and another case that happened to me was a fired primer backing out, jamming the cylinder from the inside.

And finally. There is a possibility that the ejector rod loosened & backed out. That can do it also.

Ya gotta' read the thread folks!

The latch is perfectly functioning; right in the 1st post and repeated in another post!

The cyl is opened and cleared, also in the 1st post!

 

[nitesite]

Ya gotta' read the thread folks!

The latch is perfectly functioning; right in the 1st post and repeated in another post!

The cyl is opened and cleared, also in the 1st post!

Thank you for understanding what the problem really is. Not the misguided but helpful tips that are not germane to this.

 

[Hondo44]

Well, I admit that I used misdirected blows at the beginning, but nothing very forceful when I was hitting the back of the cylinder instead of @Hondo44 s great suggestion of going thru the cylinder hole at 4-o'clock.

So I have dunked this gun in Kano Kroil for weeks and tapped on the yoke every few days thru the chamber.

The cylinder spins like a new gun. Since he brought it to me I cannot swing the cylinder either closed or fully open without many blows with a plastic hammer. Like a mm at a time x40 hits. The cylinder latch works like a new gun. It just won't swing open or shut for anything.

I'm nowhere close to being able to remove the yoke thru the front of the frame. The pivot is fused. FUSED.

This is going NO WHERE. I'm just going to hand the revolver we gifted to my FIL back to him and kindly say that it is beyond my ability to help.

I don't think even S&W can get it apart without serious damage.

It's not worth my time, effort or frustration. He can do with it as he pleases which apparently is what he did for the past six years.

Well, I can't think of a better challenge, the harder they are the more fun it is to resolve, and the more rewarding when fixed.

The final solution is heat. The aluminum alloy frame will expand like crazy with a little heat from a little propane torch. If it's gonna' work, it won't require enough heat to hurt the frame or discolor the anodized finish, (besides it's only a truck gun, right?)

Corrosion expands metal and obviously in this case beyond the tolerances of the yoke shaft to hole clearance in the frame, and it doesn't take many thousandths of an inch of corrosion growth to bind up. But you have moved the yoke open and closed with force, so it's not fused. Heat will easily expand the alloy beyond a few thousandths of corrosion growth.

Ream the hole in the frame back to a smooth linear surface, clean and polish the yoke shaft down to the steel and re-install.

If your not comfortable using the heat, take it to a smith as Kaaskop49 suggested, if you have one nearby and hope he's not just a "parts changer", but one of the few that like a challenge!

Worse case scenario you have nothing to lose at this point and it will still make a nice paperweight.

S&W will not fix it, but likely offer you a bargain price on a new model trade in.

 

[steelslaver]

I would see this gun as a challenge. I think I would try Hondo's heat method. If that didn't get it I would leave it soaking in some Kroil or Eds Red and everything I was in the shop work the yoke as much as I could. Occasionally heat it up and work it. Eventually it would start loosing up and come. Then I would deal with it. Another thought is to use a die on a grease zert so it would thread in the hole for the yoke screw and try to press it out with hydraulics.

 

[Hondo44]

Now there's a real clever idea!!

Get a spare yoke screw. Drill the hollow for the spring and plunger all the way thru the screw cap. Mig weld it to the end of an ordinary automotive zert fitting and screw it in. Take it to a garage and have them squirt grease in it with there power grease gun. Although the old manual grease gun would work as well. I haven't used mine in a 'hunerd' years.

 

[John1125]

I have been in the HVAC business for almost 40 yrs. (Yeah I'm an old guy) - we run into the same type of situations quite often only not with cylinder to frame but with motor shaft to fan or blower hub. Hondo 44 already said what the problem was - dissimilar metals.

The key is to get the part to turn on the shaft in this case that would be the frame. Work on getting the yoke to turn or swing somewhat freely .

I understand that this seems a little simplified but if the yoke will turn in the frame then it will begin to move out. I'm guessing there is quite a bit of galling involved which is going to make things even more difficult .

Like has been said some heat may help.

Good luck and God Speed,

Kirk

 

[CajunBass]

I'd just go buy another gun.

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

Had that happen with my 337. The lube actually gummed up so bad the yoke would not move. Gentle tapping with a nylon hammer got it open and I was able to get it off the frame and WOW the thing was really gummed up!Cleaned the bezeezus out of it and then used a dry teflon lube. Never had the problem again. (I think that was during my WD40 stage). Made me a believer in the less is more school of thought. Ya don't need to soak the insides with WD 40. In fact I have come to the conclusion that one should not let WD 40 anywhere near a gun save for perhaps a quick field cleaning of a shotgun that's gotten wet.

 

[torizus]

Now there's a real clever idea!!

Get a spare yoke screw. Drill the hollow for the spring and plunger all the way thru the screw cap. Mig weld it to the end of an ordinary automotive zert fitting and screw it in. Take it to a garage and have them squirt grease in it with there power grease gun. Although the old manual grease gun would work as well. I haven't used mine in a 'hunerd' years.

Gonna try it but do you use a left hand or right hand thread on that zert ?

 

[steelslaver]

The side plate screws are all right hand thread. I believe the only threads that are left hand on a S&W are those on the newer ejector rods made after about 1960. I think side plate screws are 5-44. Not sure about the newer yoke screws though, think I heard they went to a bigger screw when they went to the plunger type screw there. Never needed to measure one.

 

[steelslaver]

But, I would just get a die and re thread the zert. You can get zerts with several thread sizes. I doubt 5-44 though.

Another thought is to get a zert you have a tap for or can get one cheap. Tap the plate, then clamp it on fram zert over yoke screw hole and some rubber gasket material around hole. Clamp in place and pressure up. Might work.

 

[nitesite]

I'd just go buy another gun.

That is what I am going to suggest to my FIL. If it were my gun this would never have happened, but if it were my gun and this actually happened I wouldn't piss money away on a good gunsmith @ $50/hr or more. I'd just quit trying. I have several other J-frames!!!

 

[Arquebus357]

I agree....chuck it. With that much corrosion, the frame is probably toast anyway. Stainless steel guns are the ideal truck gun though.