My Home Parkerized Model 19-6

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Picked up a beater 19-6 with bad rust and pitting. I spent quite a while filing and sanding to get all the pits out. Filed the partridge front sight down. Sanded and bleached the worn grips. Then parkerized it on the stove while the wife was gone. Then added the white ramp sight. Wish I was better at taking pictures... I think it turned out very nice for a first attemp and not much money but a fair amount of time.

http://s661.photobucket.com/al...u335/monticello1957/
 
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I think it looks nice. I've done a lot of parkerizing and bluing in my life. Did you bead blast it before you put it in the tank? From my experience the actually parkerizing job dosen't take a long time, its just the preperation (degreasing and bead blasting) that takes the most time. It usually took me about an hour of blasting to get an even clean finish for the park tank.
 
I only filed and sanded to 300 grit. Mostly with a dremel and small circular sanding disk for the tight areas. Used a metal file for the pits on the barrel. I found the parkerizing process very forgiving.
 
Looks very good. The lack of gloss on the grips goes well with the parkerizing.
Looks like it means business.
 
Can stainless be parkerized? I'd like to consider parkerizing a SS barrel. Thanks in advance for the response.
 
The short answer is No... Stainless steel tanks are used because they do not react to parkerizing or blueing.
 
Monticello1957,

The gun looks good. But what i really miss are the different pictures that shows "How to do this". IOW: I need more input.
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Swissman
 
Good job. Is that manganese or zinc parkerizing?

Charlie
 
Good Job!
I have an old model 49 with about 50% blue left,,,
And here's a pic of yours right here!
repark005.jpg

Peter
 
I used Radocy Original Gray Military Color Parkerizing, 32 oz for $30.00 other places have it for as much as $75.00 here is the link:

http://takedownguides.com/Merc...&Product_Code=RPS118

It is enough to make 5 gallons of solution. I must say I cut every corner there was, I used well water not distilled, Used a meat thermometer which i'm sure is not very accurate, degreased with engine degreaser then washed off in hot sink water and placed in a 12 inch stainless steel pot from Agri supply co. for $30.00 the link:

http://www.agrisupply.com/-qt-.../p/38636/cn/5400010/


I hung the parts off coat hangers that were not cleaned... I did not expect much but was at a stage with this pistol that I was going to send it to S&W for reblue anyway. I am amazed how well it did..

For the front site I used permatex 5 min clear epoxy ($5.00 at the auto store) with white fingernail polish mixed in ($3.00 at CVS) made a cardboard form held in place on the sight with toothpicks taped at both ends and spread apart at the base of the site. Kind of like a tooth pick spring.

Have enough supplies left over to do all my M1 carbines now

Easy.........
 
When I was done I washed it off in the sink with hot water and placed in a bowl filled with motor oil and a little Marvelous Mistery Oil to soak for 24 hours. The longer you soak it in oil the darker it gets. Then washed the heavy oil off reasembled light oil and shoot.
 
I left the rear sight, thumb piece, cylinder rod and screws as they were... only because these were the only parts not rusted. But it made for an unintentional great contrast.
 
Nice job! I like that a LOT better than a stainless steel finish.
 
It was a bedside gun....kept between the frame and matress of a heated waterbed. The pitts were plentifull and deep. Thought it was a total loss. Got all the pitts out with the exception of a few in some recess places. I managed to save all the stamping. Should have taken a few befor pictures.
 
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