my k frame
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scooter123
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You'll need to provide a lot more information.
Serial number with the last 2 digits replace with the letter X. You will find the serial number stamped on the bottom of the grip frame and you may need to remove the grips to see it.
Number of chambers in the cylinder.
If you open the cylinder you may or may not find MOD followed by the model number and perhaps a dash then a single digit, if it is stamped as such provide that information.
Description of the barrel, length, do it have a lock for the ejector rod, is that lock a small projection or part of a "lug" that encloses the ejector rod. If it has a lug that encloses the ejector rod does that lug extend to the front of the barrel. Length of barrel from front of cylinder to end of barrel.
Front sight description. Is it a half moon, a sort of quarter moon with a vertical face, or a ramp shape. If the front sight is a ramp shape, does it have a red or yellow insert. Color of the front sight, is it silver or black.
Lastly, pics would naturally be very very helpful. BTW, the very first S&W was a 22 caliber, so they've been making 22 caliber revolvers for a very very long time. Because you've posted in the 1961-1980 forum I'm assuming that it isn't a tip up or top break, if I'm incorrect you are really going to need clear detailed pictures of the entire gun and every single stamping.
Serial number with the last 2 digits replace with the letter X. You will find the serial number stamped on the bottom of the grip frame and you may need to remove the grips to see it.
Number of chambers in the cylinder.
If you open the cylinder you may or may not find MOD followed by the model number and perhaps a dash then a single digit, if it is stamped as such provide that information.
Description of the barrel, length, do it have a lock for the ejector rod, is that lock a small projection or part of a "lug" that encloses the ejector rod. If it has a lug that encloses the ejector rod does that lug extend to the front of the barrel. Length of barrel from front of cylinder to end of barrel.
Front sight description. Is it a half moon, a sort of quarter moon with a vertical face, or a ramp shape. If the front sight is a ramp shape, does it have a red or yellow insert. Color of the front sight, is it silver or black.
Lastly, pics would naturally be very very helpful. BTW, the very first S&W was a 22 caliber, so they've been making 22 caliber revolvers for a very very long time. Because you've posted in the 1961-1980 forum I'm assuming that it isn't a tip up or top break, if I'm incorrect you are really going to need clear detailed pictures of the entire gun and every single stamping.
firearmsunlimited
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Art Doc
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- The kidney of Dixie.
That is a K22 Masterpiece from the late 1940s or early 1950s. The serial is on the butt under those non-factory grips and will start with a K prefix. This model became the Model 17 in 1957 when numbers were assigned.
These are great revolvers but unfortunately yours has been rather poorly refinished reducing the value by half or so. I think it's worth maybe $250 as it is now.
These are great revolvers but unfortunately yours has been rather poorly refinished reducing the value by half or so. I think it's worth maybe $250 as it is now.
Göring's S&W
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bamabiker
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4 threads and counting. 2 more in the other section.
scooter123
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It's not factory, whoever refinished it plated the hammer and trigger, a HUGE No No in a gun of this vintage.
You will should remove the grips to determine the true setial number, the numbers you've provided are tracking numbers put on the various parts to track them during manufacture. One alternate location for the serial number is the bottom of the barrel hidden by the extractor rod. Use a mangnifying glass if checking this area, the stamped numbers are quite small.
It's best to remove the grips, the serial number will be much easier to read and on the side of the grip frame you should find either the letter B or N. The letter B indicates this was originally a blued finish, the letter N indicates it was originally a Nickle plated gun.
You will should remove the grips to determine the true setial number, the numbers you've provided are tracking numbers put on the various parts to track them during manufacture. One alternate location for the serial number is the bottom of the barrel hidden by the extractor rod. Use a mangnifying glass if checking this area, the stamped numbers are quite small.
It's best to remove the grips, the serial number will be much easier to read and on the side of the grip frame you should find either the letter B or N. The letter B indicates this was originally a blued finish, the letter N indicates it was originally a Nickle plated gun.
