My Model 36

[BoltThrower13]

No dash, apparently made in 1971 (with a weird serial number not totally listed in the catalog, info came from S&W) with a bit of bluing wear and spotting on the cylinder.

I did my own modification, I used sandpaper on the trigger because the serrated trigger was incredibly painful after a few squeezes, like tiny razor blades. Now it's smooth and it was easier than swapping it out, and I only took off a tiny bit of bluing inside the trigger guard! Success!

Part of me wants to send it to S&W for a re-blue, but it's pricey and since it's my EDC, the bluing will wear eventually. I know it can damage value but I never intend to sell this and it's a shooter/to be carried. It has Pachmayrs and part of me wants the original grips, but I know they'll be less comfortable. I just like the looks.

I found it after much searching and turning down $550+ prices for most others. Looking back I may have paid $550 for one in better condition, but oh well. I ended up making the long trip to a gun store I'd never been to, and met the coolest/nicest gun store owner I've ever met. So it all worked out!

This is to be my last firearm purchase for a while, I promised the girlfriend I'd stop 3 guns ago...so I should slow down for a bit. I'm addicted to revolvers though!

 

[Swengen]

Great looking gun! I had Pachmayr's on mine for a while and really like them. But mine is a gun that belonged to my uncle, then my father and now me. So, I put the original stocks back on and am glad I did. I have a couple other J-frame snubbies and carry them mostly. Will do some trigger work on mine soon as those serrations just kill me when shooting DA. For me, that's the only way to train with one of these.

 

[BoltThrower13]

Great looking gun! I had Pachmayr's on mine for a while and really like them. But mine is a gun that belonged to my uncle, then my father and now me. So, I put the original stocks back on and am glad I did. I have a couple other J-frame snubbies and carry them mostly. Will do some trigger work on mine soon as those serrations just kill me when shooting DA. For me, that's the only way to train with one of these.

Like I said in your thread, I sanded mine down because it was digging into my finger something awful. It was about a half hour of work with different grits, just cover all the blued areas around the trigger with something sandpaper can't get through.

I wore off a small spot of bluing because the tape didn't stop the sandpaper unfortunately, but it's not a big deal as the gun is missing it in other spots too.

 

[unclebob]

I also have a model 36 with Pachmayr"s on them, I am not fond of the look over the originals, but in my large hands the originals don't work as well. Nice firearm , have fun with it I know I enjoy mine.

 

[CoMF]

Nice looking M36 and the Pachs don't look THAT "ugly," though I have to agree the service stocks are much more aesthetically pleasing. If you ask others here, they'll tell you that one J-frame is never enough.

Rather than go with Pachs, I chose to order a set of Herrett's stocks. The wait was long, but they're the best balance of concealability and control I've found in a wood grip for a square butt "J."

 

[JayFramer]

Looks nice! The Pachy grips don't look bad at all.

Reminds me of my fathers 1960-something Model 37 with mint condition bluing except 1 small scratch on the frame. It is gorgeous.

 

[Texas Star]

Nice looking M36 and the Pachs don't look THAT "ugly," though I have to agree the service stocks are much more aesthetically pleasing. If you ask others here, they'll tell you that one J-frame is never enough.

Rather than go with Pachs, I chose to order a set of Herrett's stocks. The wait was long, but they're the best balance of concealability and control I've found in a wood grip for a square butt "J."

Those grips would look really good on a three-inch bbl. M-36-1.

I'm quite happy with the Pachs on my M-60-4. They fit my hand well and ease recoil.

 

[JP@AK]

No dash, apparently made in 1971 (with a weird serial number not totally listed in the catalog, info came from S&W)

If it shipped in 1971 it would have a "floating J" serial number. Once you understand how these work, they are actually "totally listed" in the Standard Catalog. I admit they are sort of weird, though!

 

[BoltThrower13]

If it shipped in 1971 it would have a "floating J" serial number. Once you understand how these work, they are actually "totally listed" in the Standard Catalog. I admit they are sort of weird, though!

I think that's what it is, the J is in the serial but it's not first. 8J7XXX is where the J is.

 

[Door Kicker]

I have an M36 floating J SN that has been Cerakoted. Sweet finish, so tuff I don't even get a turn line on the cylinder.

I am hoping that the original finish was just terrible and that is why it was coated but I have no idea because I bought it this way. Would hate to think someone would re-finish a nice 36 "just because"

Also the SN is: 53J15 I assume that is a floating J correct?

 

[linde]

I think that's what it is, the J is in the serial but it's not first. 8J7XXX is where the J is.

. . . the SN is 53J15 I assume that is a floating J correct?

That is correct . . . both 8J and 53J have "floating J" serial numbers from the 1971 - 1972 period.

Post #14 in this previous thread describes why Js started floating.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1961-1980/363759-need-some-help-some-36s.html


Russ

 

[BoltThrower13]

I have an M36 floating J SN that has been Cerakoted. Sweet finish, so tuff I don't even get a turn line on the cylinder.

I am hoping that the original finish was just terrible and that is why it was coated but I have no idea because I bought it this way. Would hate to think someone would re-finish a nice 36 "just because"

Also the SN is: 53J15 I assume that is a floating J correct?

I've actually made the decision to cerakote my 36. It is worn down to brown/rust in a lot of spots, with a few spots just stripped to the bare metal.

Since I have no plans of ever selling it and it will be a carry/range gun, I want to cerakote it because of the durability. If I spend $200 to have S&W re-blue, it's just going to get beat up again and I'd rather have it remain in good condition.

I know the purists would balk, but it's never going to be a collector's gun anyway.