My New 617 Just Went Back to S&W for Warranty Repairs

SWFan27

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I picked up new 617 ten shot 22LR for range use a few weeks ago and I have fired 400 to 450 rounds through it. I do own and love several S&W revolvers. Sadly my 617 is shaving lead like a cheese grader. I used new Federal and Winchester target ammo at the range. Either the timing is off or there is a forcing cone issue.

Also, there is already a gouge across the metal of the top strap above the forcing cone from gas/flame cutting. I have shot thousands of 357 Mag rounds through both my Models 66-8 and 686+ without this problem. I am hoping and praying Smith & Wesson will properly repair it or replace it, and promptly. There was another cosmetic factory issue, but my main concern is my thousand dollar 22 working properly and reliably.
 
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Also, there is already a gouge across the metal of the top strap above the forcing cone.

Is it a gouge in the top strap or a build up of lead? It shouldn't be possible for a 22 LR revolver to have flame cutting on the top strap. That's normally seen only on revolvers firing higher pressure cartridges.

I hope S&W quickly and completely fixes the timing issue. I bought a 617 a couple of years ago and really like it. They are great guns if they are not spitting lead.
 
Is it a gouge in the top strap or a build up of lead? It shouldn't be possible for a 22 LR revolver to have flame cutting on the top strap. That's normally seen only on revolvers firing higher pressure cartridges.

I hope S&W quickly and completely fixes the timing issue. I bought a 617 a couple of years ago and really like it. They are great guns if they are not spitting lead.
It is gas/flame cutting which of course should not be happening with a 22LR revolver. It actually cut into the metal and the thing is brand new. My Model 66-8 has shot thousands of 357 Mag rounds and absolutely no markings on the top strap. My 686+ has a faint line, but there is no indentation in the metal. A good cleaning should remove it.

I tried that with the 617 and was hoping for the best. But the top strap is gouged. I shot 325 rounds of Federal 36 grain lead nose and maybe 100 rounds of Winchester red and white box. The amount of lead shavings above the forcing cone was ridiculous.
 
While it definitely sounds like there is an issue with the gun, your choice of some of the worst quality 22 ammo on the planet ( Winchester ) doesn’t help matters, and federal is only marginally better. The only domestic ammo worth buying quality wise is CCI. I will only shoot Remington or Winchester ammo if I get it for free ( yes it absolutely is that bad!!) and federal if I’ve have another of those shortages and it is all I can find. Mexican aguila is actually much better than anything American except CCI.
If you really want maximal performance / accuracy out of a 22, European ammo is the way to go.
 
Yikes, just picked mine up an hour ago. Will watch for that when it gets shot.
I checked it out prior to purchase. Was focusing on the trigger , timing, finish etc.
Now that its home I somehow completely over looked the ejector rod detent pin being proud to one side. Not a real issue, Some of my other revolvers have this, but this one sticks out the most.
And now its mine. So.... Will shoot it and see how it goes. As far as ammo, its CCI and Federal .22 for me. CCI/ Fed. Tried them all.
Also, nothing beats the early models... Hope it shoots almost as nice as its older sister. No idea why some pics are sideways.
 

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I suspect it's actually file cutting and you just hadn't noticed before.
No. I checked it out very well at the store. It is shaving lead like a cheese grader and blaming Federal or Winchester ammo for something like this is just silly in my opinion. I have shot plenty of the stuff before. These are not file marks. I can assure you of that.
 
My new 617 purchased about a year ago also had lead build up around the forcing cone and cylinder. At first glance I thought it was flame cutting. I cleaned it off. It has less build up now. The locking bolt pin was also proud. I pushed on it and it was loose as a goose. I took it out and wrapped it in tape, then gave it a good whack with a hammer. Put it back in and now it doesn’t move. Also my ejector rod came loose. Took it apart and cleaned it. Used a tiny drop of blue loctite. Rear elevation nut sight on both my 617 and 648 where frozen locked down from the factory.
Wonderful smith qc.
Jack
 
I have a hard time with the concept that the diminutive 22 LR and it's small charge of fast burning powder causing flame cutting of the top strap, especially with a steel or stainless steel frame. Flame cutting usually results from heavy charges of very slow burning spherical powders.
 
27, 22 revolvers are their own breed of gun. Forget about center fire revolvers, forget about 22 rifles. Their rules do not apply.
22 revolvers are so problematic, I’m shocked Smith and Colt still make them.

The cure for mine came after getting th gun back from Smith a 3rd time, was to fire lap the barrel with the Wheeler kit. And I shoot nothing but CCI plated ammo. Ammo that works for you in other guns will cause fits in a 617.

My advice for anyone thinking about buying a 617 is: Get a Model 41!

Once you’ve bought a 617, if you got a stinker, and they’re not all stinkers, all I can say is: Good Luck.

My 617 works fine now. But I’ll never own another 22 revolver, so help me.
 
I have a hard time with the concept that the diminutive 22 LR and it's small charge of fast burning powder causing flame cutting of the top strap, especially with a steel or stainless steel frame. Flame cutting usually results from heavy charges of very slow burning spherical powders.
Yes. I am aware of that. That is why the 617 is now back for warranty repair at S&W.
 
I had a late 4” 617 and had very good luck with it. It was accurate and functioned 100% with no issues. I wound up trading it for an 8-3/8” K38 and bought a new colt 4.25” King cobra 22 that I like much better. No issues with it either. My complaint with the 617 was the front imbalance I felt it had due to the under lug. The Colt has it but it’s a noticeably smaller and lighter gun and the balance is better.

I also lucked into a model 17 4” without an under lug and I really like it too.
 
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I know they can make them correctly. I just don't know if they do anymore. I have a vintage Model 63 I bought new that functions fine and I used a 17 for decades and it never gave me any trouble. But the newer .22 guns I run into always seem to have issues. I love revolvers. But my .22's are autos.

I think this all started when they went to 10 shot revolvers. I don't know if that's a reason or a coincidence. Maybe I'll get a Wrangler. Might as well have a $250 crummy revolver rather than a $1,000 crummy revolver.
 
27, 22 revolvers are their own breed of gun. Forget about center fire revolvers, forget about 22 rifles. Their rules do not apply.
22 revolvers are so problematic, I’m shocked Smith and Colt still make them.
"I really like 22s. And I really like revolvers. But I am done with 22 revolvers."

I posted those words a few times in this forum and others 6 or 7 years ago. After problems with double action revolvers from Taurus and Ruger as well as a Ruger Single Six that worked fine but was not as accurate as I expected I vowed to never buy another 22 revolver.

That lasted about 3 years. Apparently 22 revolvers are my personal kryptonite. I saw a good deal on a 617 and took a chance. It turned out well this time, if one must buy a 22 revolver a 617 is a good choice.

Like all 22 revolvers the DA trigger pull is heavy and my 4 inch 617 feels much heavier than it needs to be. But the trigger is much better and it feels positively svelte compared to the 22 LR Ruger GP100 I tried. If I shoot more than 50 to 75 rounds of CCI standard velocity or Blazer though it extraction get sticky, the only way to avoid that is ammo with plated bullets like MiniMags.

I know that is faint praise but by 22 revolver standards my 617 has been problem free and it also shoots well for me. I did put a lighter rebound spring in it to lighten up the DA pull a bit and plan to get the chambers reamed out to help with the sticky extraction someday. But unlike my previous 22 revolvers I think this one is a keeper.
 
Good news. 350 rounds through the new 4" 617 today. 5 types of ammo. CCI Std, Blazer, CCI Mini mag, Fed auto match, and some old Rem.High Vel. No issues I am aware of aside from "Rear elevation nut sight on my 617 is frozen locked down from the factory" Double action is a bit heavy at 1st, but smooth past the initial pull, Am at an inch or so at 7 yrds D/A. If I do my part. Good enough for these old cataract repaired eyes.
Will try the sight elev. adj. some time with a real screwdriver. Rather than the small one I keep in my bag. Taking these photos made me see what I missed cleaning... :D Update. Real screwdriver worked fine. Was afraid to bugger it with a toy. Added photo.
 

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....The locking bolt pin was also proud. I pushed on it and it was loose as a goose. I took it out and wrapped it in tape, then gave it a good whack with a hammer. Put it back in and now it doesn’t move. Also my ejector rod came loose. Took it apart and cleaned it. Used a tiny drop of blue loctite....
Wonderful smith qc.
Jack

I have a 29-3 10 5/8" barreled silhouette revolver that I use for IHMSA Big Bore that also has a loosey-goosey locking bolt pin. Also fixed with tape, just put on the barrel to capture it. Been taped up for a long time, now!

Lost count of how many revolvers I've had to tighten the ejector rod. It happens less often if you don't shoot them. LocTite definitely helps.

As for .22s, the ammo used makes a difference. But lead and carbon will build up sooner or later. My oldest 617 has been thoroughly encrusted many times. But it's also had many case lots of ammo through it. All of 'em from the late thirties vintage onward take a bit more extraction force than any centerfire except my 940 with +P+ ammo.
 
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I have a hard time with the concept that the diminutive 22 LR and it's small charge of fast burning powder causing flame cutting of the top strap, especially with a steel or stainless steel frame. Flame cutting usually results from heavy charges of very slow burning spherical powders.

Because it is not flame cutting. I don't believe it either.
 
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To be totally fair, at first glance, lead build up on a 22 revolver does look somewhat similar to flame cutting. Plus, you don’t expect to see lead build up there because you’ve never seen that on any of your center fire revolvers. So, everybody gets one free pass on that misconception.
 
To be totally fair, at first glance, lead build up on a 22 revolver does look somewhat similar to flame cutting. Plus, you don’t expect to see lead build up there because you’ve never seen that on any of your center fire revolvers. So, everybody gets one free pass on that misconception.
"gouge across the metal of the top strap above the forcing cone"

At first I thought I had the same thing after reading this. Straight groove across the top of the top strap above the cone. Tough to remove too, used a razer blade to filially get it off.
But did look cut at 1st. :o Even after a good cleaning.
At least I think this is the area we are talking about.
 

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