My New M&P10, all dressed up!

ASH556

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I'll start by saying that AR's are really my thing. I've been building them for 11 years now and am a certified armorer. Until now, I've only ever had them in 5.56 and my .308's have been bolt guns. I've shied away from the .308 AR's because of the lack of standardization with parts and magazines. A few years ago, the choices were the Armalite AR-10 or the Knight's SR-25. The SR-25 was the way to go, but pretty rare and expensive.

When Magpul released their .308 Pmag, that was the game changer for the .308 market almost the way the AWB sunset sparked all the growth in the AR15 market. Any manufacturer who's .308 semi would take the PMAG was instantly on the "go" list. Smith was very wise to capitalize on the opportunity and really did their M&P10 right! I do wish that maybe they'd used the "high" pattern upper receiver so there would be more rails available, but beyond that, it's very nice to have a .308 rifle that takes AR15 mil-spec butt stocks, pistol grips, midlength handguards, and triggers. Yes, the barrel, bolt, and receiver extension are proprietary, and I'm not thrilled about that, but the problem is there's nowhere near the standardization with the .308 semi's that you see with the AR15. Thus, it's not so much about "proprietary" as it is, pick a pattern and go with it. Smith did so and I think they really have a winner, especially compared to the other offerings at the price point.

The barrel contour was a great choice. It may not make the best bench gun or sniper rifle, but for field use, it's great...heavy where it needs to be to dissipate heat, and still light enough to handle well. That doesn't mean it's not accurate either. The 5R rifling probably helps, but most range reports I've seen so far show the rifle to be 1-1.5 MOA accurate @ 100yds. I've only shot mine @ 25yds thus far so I cannot comment in that regard, but I suspect it will be similar.

My purpose for this was to be a general purpose "outside" rifle. For inside work, urban threats, or anything else that I might need a gun for from 0-200 yds, I have a 5.56 SBR with an Aimpoint T-1. Beyond that 200 yds, though, or through intermediate barriers, the 5.56 (even with bonded ammo) is lacking compared to the .308. I actually had the trigger, furniture, sights, optic, and light on a 14.5" AR15. What I determined, though, was that if I was gong to grab something longer and heavier than my SBR, I wanted it to have more ballistic advantage and range too. That led me to looking at semi-auto .308's and the Smith M&P10 quickly caught my attention as a much more affordable option to the LMT or KAC I really wanted. I simply couldn't justify the $3K-$5K pricetag of those two, but the M&P10 was do-able.

I picked up the rifle this past Friday and spent about 45 minutes before work Saturday installing the MI 12" handguard, low profile gas block, Geissele trigger, BCM grip, and B5 SOPMOD stock. Everything went together without issue and the rifle ran beautifully for the 27 rounds I've put through her so far.

The one complaint I have about the rifle is that 3.5" long monstrosity Smith put on the muzzle. That sucker's heavy too. I couldn't believe how much it weighed when I removed it to install the handguard. I'd rather see Smith ship the rifle with an A2. It would be less cost involved on the front end and probably have about the same performance. As for me, I have a JP Tactical Comp on the way that will be shorter, and I suspect do a better job of keeping the rifle flat for quicker follow-up shots.

So, here she is in all her glory:

M&P10
MI .308 Freefloat Handguard
TA-11HG ACOG in Larue mount
KAC 99051 front sight
Matech rear sight
Surefire G2X in Gear Sector mount
Bravo Sopmod
BCM Gunfighter grip
Geissele SSA-E trigger

E12267DA-F032-492E-AFA6-E04CB319A912-1516-000000E0532A703C_zpsa605bf8c.jpg
 
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Very nice, Ash. I like how you set up your rifle. I want a carbon fiber FF tube for my M&P-10 but I just don't have the scratch at the moment. I'm also looking at replacing the muzzle device (what were they thinking?). I really like the BABC which I'm running on a Para FAL but like the FF tube, it's not financially feasible.

I'm curious to see how the MI tube handles the extra heat the 308 generates. I know from shooting FALs the handguards get hot fast and metal handguards painfully so.

I'm also curious to know if you found it necessary to remove the R/H bolt release before installing the hammer. I removed the FGC of my big Smith to lube it up and had to fight to get the hammer back in (I didn't remove the bolt release).

Welcome to the M&P Brotherhood and it's good to see you here on this forum. Looking forward to seeing how it works out for you
 
Very nice, Ash. I like how you set up your rifle. I want a carbon fiber FF tube for my M&P-10 but I just don't have the scratch at the moment. I'm also looking at replacing the muzzle device (what were they thinking?). I really like the BABC which I'm running on a Para FAL but like the FF tube, it's not financially feasible.

I'm curious to see how the MI tube handles the extra heat the 308 generates. I know from shooting FALs the handguards get hot fast and metal handguards painfully so.

I'm also curious to know if you found it necessary to remove the R/H bolt release before installing the hammer. I removed the FGC of my big Smith to lube it up and had to fight to get the hammer back in (I didn't remove the bolt release).

Welcome to the M&P Brotherhood and it's good to see you here on this forum. Looking forward to seeing how it works out for you

Thanks Mistwolf, nice to see you here as well. As you know, I read all your stuff before diving into this thing and appreciate your posting all the info you have!

Regarding trigger installation, I had read online that it was necessary to remove the right side bolt catch, so I didn't really try without doing so. Not that big of a deal to remove it and re-install it to me. The rifle functions fine without the right side catch too if you want to just leave it out, but it's another hole for dirt/junk to get into the receiver. Interesting to hear that you were able to remove your FCG without removing the bolt catch, though. As far as the handguard goes, I didn't notice any heat issues in 27 rounds over about 5 minutes (not a super-high rate of fire, nor a lot of rounds). We'll see if I can get it hot, but honestly, I have no real intentions of this rifle seeing the firing schedule of, say, my 5.56 SBR. I couldn't really afford to feed it that much anyway!:eek:
 
LOL! Yeah, it's expensive shooting 308s.

Getting the FCG out with the release in place was easy. Getting the hammer back in was the frustrating part. I didn't remove the release because I didn't wanna dig all my tools out. It was supposed to be a simple lubing of the FCG while watching TV
 
ASH
I have done the same to mine Except for the Trigger I used the Combat, I like the straight Trigger as my daly side arm is a Wilson Combat 1911, I used the Magpul Pro Sights, Surefire 6PX, BABC is the choice for me, There on all of my Duty gun's. Everything else is Same. I need a Trijicon rug though.
 
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ASH
I have done the same to mine Except for the Trigger I used the Combat, I like the straight Trigger as my daly side arm is a Wilson Combat 1911, I used the Magpul Pro Sights, Surefire 6PX, BABC is the choice for me, There on all of my Duty gun's. Everything else is Same. I need a Trijicon rug though.

Nice man! Do you have a pic of yours you care to post? I'll be honest, if the BABC wasn't double the price of the JP, I probably would've gone with it. The Trijicon rug belongs to the shop.;)
 
I'll have to get a photo bucket accout set up to post a pic.
Also saw your post on MC4.
The BABC is what I run on my SBR and they are worth the $. Except the Supressed SBR it got the sure fire. The 556's gets the Comp2.
Also look into the LWRC Compact Butt Stock for yur SBR super light, https://www.lwrci.com/p-336-lwrci-compact-stock.aspx
I like light and good Balance in my Rifles
If ya find another Mat/Doormat I'm Open..LOL
 
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