My observations - Cleaners/Solvents/Lube

[38SPL HV]

With the myriad of cleaners and solvents, I find that they all pretty much work although many claim to he best. I've tried many, many of these, at least for me, I always come back to these when cleaning revolvers after cast/lead bullet use:

Bore solvents: Hoppes 9, Ballistol, CLP (military spec)
General cleaning: Ballistol and M Pro 7
Lube: CLP and Ballistol
Protection: CLP

Please tell me your favorites

 

[DWalt]

Plain old light lube oil (like 3-in-1, Rem Oil, etc) seems to work as well as anything else for every gun use, even for bore cleaning, works better than bore solvents. Some swear by synthetic motor oil. I use watch and clock oil for lockwork lubrication, mainly because I have it (I work on clocks too).

 

[Trooper224]

 

[ContinentalOp]

 

[ContinentalOp]

Yeah, this has been discussed many, many times.

But what the hey, I'll add on as I've recently changed my choices.

For several years I've been using BreakFree CLP for cleaning and protecting, and Gun Butter oil for lube. It's worked well for me. No complaints.

I recently switched as I've been wanting to move to more non-toxic (less-toxic?) options. I'm now using MPro7 solvent for cleaning and Lubriplate for lube and protection. So far, so good.

But I think this is something that can be easily overthought. Any of the commonly available solvents, lubes, and protectants will get the job done. I will add that I'm not a fan of lubes that require some kind of special treatment, like heating parts to be lubed in an oven before application. I'm too lazy for that.

 

[armorer951]

I seem to always get hammered on these "lubricants/what should I use for cleaning" threads.

Since I'm a relative newcomer to handguns, +60 years, I'm gonna just give this well-worn horse a break. Popcorn anyone?

 

[JohnHL]

Stoddard solvent (automotive parts washer fluid) or similar, for cleaning.

ATF (or similar light oil) for lubrication.

Both work great and are inexpensive.

But hey, maybe someday, I'll become a sucker for the latest "snake oil" like all the smart people.

John

 

[38SPL HV]

Yea, yea, yea...I have lot of time on my hands these days like many of us

 

[mauser9]

Keep em coming. Love to hear about em all. For me Breakfree CLP, Hoppes, and Rem Oil. Like Bore Snakes too!!

 

[38SPL HV]

Keep em coming. Love to hear about em all. For me Breakfree CLP, Hoppes, and Rem Oil. Like Bore Snakes too!!

...I think someone may have spilled his popcorn! This forum has brightened my days many times during this nutty period. Thank you all!

 

[schutzen-jager]

ED'S red less acetone for cleaning + sperm oil , gunslick for lube -

 

[BE Mike]

I have used Hoppe's Elite for many years. When it quit being made, I finally figured out that M Pro 7 is the same stuff.

 

[Fishinfool]

Sweets 7.62 solvent works pretty good on copper fouling. "Barricade" (used to be called "Sheath") works well as a spray on rust inhibitor. I like Rem Oil and CLP for general lube and cleaning duties. A little "Chore Boy" copper pot cleaner wrapped around a bristle cleaning brush is a great leading remover in handgun barrels.

Larry

 

[serger]

Firearms are single piston, single stroke non-reciprocating
internal combustion engines.

So I tend to use automotive stuff when the Super Sophisticated
Jungle Juice ain't around.

 

[chief38]

Everyone here (and on any gun Forum) has their personal fav's as do I. The bottom line here is unless you will be out in the jungle, desert or Arctic for extended periods of time, just about any of the major popular brands that have been around for a long will do the job. If they didn't they would have been gone by now.

Like all of us, you need to find what YOU like best. There are many that work very well that I don't like because of their smell - others love the smell - go figure. Some of them leave a very oily after finish and while some don't mind that - it's not for me.

So pick one of the common brands and see if you like or dislike it. I'd start with Breakfree CLP which is one of the most popular and well liked. If you don't like that one move on and try others. Find what floats your boat.

 

[Babysitr]

I'll have to say I have changed opinions some...started using a light film of gun grease on anything that slides...kind of works better on the bolt channels on my SX-2 Winchester...tried Ballistol, that stuff works! real good on old dried wood stocks,,,but,, it really irritates my throat and nose for some reason??..still use it when I can open the outside door!

 

[brucev]

For bore cleaning ... Shooters Choice. Gets copper, etc. out w/o lots of elbow grease. For lead fouling, I like Hoppe's No. 9. Works well on both bore and cylinder. These two solvents w/ a phosphor bronze brush work extremely well. For lubrication I like CLP, Slick 50, and Rem oil. For protecting the finish, I like RIG grease. Sincerely. bruce.

 

[bulletslap]

I have recently started loading Black Powder Cartridges, and used water, soap and mineral oil to clean the gun and cases. It worked just fine, just as it would for smokeless.

Removing lead or jacket fouling is much easier with bore solvents for that specific use I do acknowledge.

I was lucky to be mentored on firearms cleaning in my youth by my Father and other practical men. Recently I have been teaching my grandson and son in laws the basics of firearms maintenance. It seems so simple until you try to teach someone who has no background and try and give them some written notes.

 

[mikerjf]

<<Firearms are single piston, single stroke non-reciprocating
internal combustion engines. >>

I always considered them more like a bomb, highly optimized to throw specific shrapnel in a specific direction.

 

[brucev]

Re: Firearms are single piston... I remember being told by a someone of a engineering bend of mind that my rifle was a "expendable piston heat engine." Can't remember that man's name. But, I have never forgotten his description of my rifle. Sincerely. bruce.