My plans with some questions, need some advice.

Coots

Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2011
Messages
107
Reaction score
5
Updated list 3-6-11
Items with a ** indicate items already purchased.

**Scope: Nikon Prostaff 4x12-40mm
$164.99
Nikon Prostaff Rifle Scope 4-12x 40mm Mil-Dot Reticle Matte - MidwayUSA

**Rings: Burris 1" Extreme Tactical
$49.99
Burris 1" Xtreme Tactical Picatinny-Style Rings Matte Extra-High - MidwayUSA

**Scopecoat 14"x 52mm model.
$16.79
Scopecoat Scope Cover 14" x 52mm Black - MidwayUSA

BUIS:
Magpul MBUS
Taking Suggestions

Bi-pod: UTG Low Profile
$25.18
Amazon.com: UTG Low-Profile Deluxe Universal Picatinny & Swivel-Stud Bipod: Sports & Outdoors

Grip: Magpul MOE Drop-in
$21.77
Amazon.com: Magpul Moe Drop-In Pistol Grip for .223/M-16 - Black: Sports & Outdoors

Foregrip: Magpul AFG
$34.95
Amazon.com: Magpul AFG2 Angled Foregrip - Black: Sports & Outdoors

Rail Covers: Magpul XTM Quanity 4
$7.66 each
Amazon.com: New Magpul Industries Xtm Accessory Black Rail Covers Picatinny Mag410-Blk Excellent Performance: Sports & Outdoors

Green Laser:
Primary Arms
$59.99
Primary Arms Green Laser

-OR-



The main question I had about any of it is the laser and how to install the switch for it. I'm hoping it'll work with the foregrip easily.
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
A few nice upgrades that are very functional and purposeful...

Magpul MOE grip instead of MIAD--$20 cheaper and the various front/back straps of the MIAD are not necessary unless you have gorilla hands.

Magpul MBUS--during a carbine course, I learned that iron sights are a back-up system that rarely if ever get used. If you break your optic or the battery dies, unless you are needing to engage things past 25yds you can wait to get your optic fixed, so I view MBUS as optional. I also removed my factory irons and only run an optic on my gun.

Instead of the UTG grip, get the Magpul MOE rail version grip--$20 or so and more solid. The folding grips wiggle at the hinge point.

For bipods, unless you plan to do a lot of bench shooting, which a bag or rest would be better, I would avoid adding weight to the rifle, and something you will spend $$ on and remove later.

Cover the rails with Magpul XTM covers or another rail cover or ladder to protect the polymer rail notches from damage/bumping, plus they give you a positive grip on the handguard.

For lasers, I have no input because I don't use them.


Just my two cents..whatever that is worth.
 
Last edited:
"Instead of the UTG grip, get the Magpul MOE rail version grip--$20 or so and more solid. The folding grips wiggle at the hinge point."

+1 Or Magpul AFG. Also consider the Magpul PTS BUS-alot cheaper and sound just as functional.
 
"Instead of the UTG grip, get the Magpul MOE rail version grip--$20 or so and more solid. The folding grips wiggle at the hinge point."

+1 Or Magpul AFG. Also consider the Magpul PTS BUS-alot cheaper and sound just as functional.

+1 on AFG, I use it on a couple of my ARs and my 15-22, but the MOE VFG is nice too.
 
Go to Rainier Arms or Bravo Company USA or amazon will work. You will need 4 XTM pkgs to cover the rails if you use the AFG or the MOE VFG.


DSCF0688-1.jpg
 
Last edited:
I use the same bipod and grip your asking about. As for the laser, I purchased this Light/laser combo

But as for the bipod,I think it works very well. I could do without the swivel, but it doesn't really bother me. It is really not that tall, so I really suggest buying the smaller 10 rnd magazines.

As for the foregrip, you will have mixed reviews on here about it. The rail mount is not split in 2 pieces to where it actually "clamps" together. So when you just get it tight, it still wobbles. You need to really crank down and tighten it as much as you can. Mine now does not move at all.

As for the switch, that is all up to you and you wil once again get mixed reviews. I mounted mine on the foregrip, as it works best for me. I then notched out my Magpul rail covers and routed my line through there so it would not be pinched and still give it a clean look.


IMG_4973.jpg
 
I'm really a fan of the green lasers. Maybe I'll look for a green laser / light combo.
 
If you google for a while you can find that magpul has two lines of products, one that is made here in the USA that runs full price, and then one that is made in Asia at a small fraction of the cost. Magpul claims the Asia made items are the same quality. Most reports have shown them to be at least similar in terms of quality if not the same as claimed.

And as such, I suggest you go to Wholesale - Buy Products Online from China Wholesalers at Aliexpress.com and search for magpul items. You can get the Asia made versions for pennies on the dollar. The cheapest I saw the MBUS sights was around $8 shipped. The vert grip is around $10. MS2 slings run around $10-$15. Basically anything magpul can be had dirt cheap. Shipping does take a little longer, as it is coming from half way across the world. That site is like ebay. It does show reviews for each seller listed on there so you have a little more confidence in buying direct from China. For the money it seems like a heck of a deal.
 
I am using the utg fore grip non pivoting, the utg bipod that you mention and Ncstar green laser and light. Every thing is removable without wrenches except the green laser. Can take bi-pod off in less than 30 seconds.:D

002.jpg
 
Very nice setup you've got going on there.

I'm going to go with a traditional scope. I think it's going to be what best suits my need.

Primary Arms
Primary Arms 3-9x40 Scope

Although I haven't decided figured out which mount to buy from them that will co-witness the sights properly
 
Last edited:
And as such, I suggest you go to Wholesale - Buy Products Online from China Wholesalers at Aliexpress.com and search for magpul items. You can get the Asia made versions for pennies on the dollar.
What's the scoop on this site? There are a lot of cheap knockoffs there. Is it like ebay where you need to be mindful of the seller's track record? A lot of cheap stuff is from sellers with little or no feedback.

Is there any recourse thru PayPal if your stuff never shows up?
 
Very nice setup you've got going on there.

I'm going to go with a traditional scope. I think it's going to be what best suits my need.

Primary Arms
Primary Arms 3-9x40 Scope

Although I haven't decided figured out which mount to buy from them that will co-witness the sights properly

Nice looking scope, can't help on the mounts, I took my iron sites off never thought of co-witnessing. I'm mainly a scope shooter and lately I have been buying more powerful scopes, maybe because I'm getting older and my eyes need more power, ha ha Good luck with your mounts.
 
Very nice setup you've got going on there.

I'm going to go with a traditional scope. I think it's going to be what best suits my need.

Primary Arms
Primary Arms 3-9x40 Scope

Although I haven't decided figured out which mount to buy from them that will co-witness the sights properly

The mount that is shown with the scope will be the proper height for an AR platform/15-22. You won't be able to co-witness with a magnified scope and sights.

The scope is a conventional 3-9x but it is illuminated. The glass on dime store illuminated optics will be noticeably darker than a non illuminated scope. Unless you just gotta have something that lights up you will get a brighter scope with just a regular 3-9x.
 
The mount that is shown with the scope will be the proper height for an AR platform/15-22. You won't be able to co-witness with a magnified scope and sights.

The scope is a conventional 3-9x but it is illuminated. The glass on dime store illuminated optics will be noticeably darker than a non illuminated scope. Unless you just gotta have something that lights up you will get a brighter scope with just a regular 3-9x.

Thanks for the tips. I live pretty close to Chattanooga, assuming that's where you're at by your name. Probably about 30-40 minutes away I guess.

Do you have any suggestions for non-illuminated ones in the $100-150 price range that are worth having? One that will look decent on the rifle as well.
 
Thanks for the tips. I live pretty close to Chattanooga, assuming that's where you're at by your name. Probably about 30-40 minutes away I guess.
Do you have any suggestions for non-illuminated ones in the $100-150 price range that are worth having? One that will look decent on the rifle as well.

Hey neighbor! The PA you linked is a decent scope. There are millions of decent scopes under $150. Go to Academy (they have a bunch of scopes tied to cords on display), Sportsman WH and Dicks SG... and find ones that looks good to your eyes. Sportsman WH has ARs in the rack with Magpul and Hogue grips, pick em up and see what feels best to you. I bet you'll like the Hogue. GT Distributors in Rossville, GA is black rifle heaven.
I'm a member of the Chattanooga Rifle Club. If you want to go shooting some time send me a PM.
 
Last edited:
Not trying to hi-jack your thread or anything, but i would love to here more about the green lasers that you're looking to get as well, i'm in the market for one, and i'm completely oblivious, i found this one

HTML:
http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm/343954430-NEW-2-in-1-High-power-Green-Laser-Pointer-adjustable-star-burn-matches-pop-balloon-1000mw-wholesalers.html

It has a pulsating light as well as a solid beam, and from reading it, it is super bright.
 
I have a Laserlyte K15. It's a bit pricey but I don't think it is any brighter than cheaper ones. Belt_fed has a Viridian (even more pricey) it is brighter than the K15 when we compared the two side by side during the middle of the day bright sunshine.
 

Attachments

  • DSC02728.jpg
    DSC02728.jpg
    74.3 KB · Views: 36
I have a Laserlyte K15. It's a bit pricey but I don't think it is any brighter than cheaper ones. Belt_fed has a Viridian (even more pricey) it is brighter than the K15 when we compared the two side by side during the middle of the day bright sunshine.

yeah i've searched the forums and have read older posts, i lke what you have, but it is a little too pricey for me, I want that tactical look, and power, but with out breaking the back, i really dont want to spend more than $100, and that one that i found was more than that.
 
Midway has a Nikon Prostaff 4x12-40mm on sale right now. You guys think that the 4x12 is a bit to powerful for the 15-22?

I still like the primary arms, but the sale on the Nikon has got me thinking.... again.
 
Midway has a Nikon Prostaff 4x12-40mm on sale right now. You guys think that the 4x12 is a bit to powerful for the 15-22?

I still like the primary arms, but the sale on the Nikon has got me thinking.... again.


I have a Prostaff 3x9 on my 15-22 and wish I had a 4x12. At 100yds, I wish I could see the target details a little better. I like shoot-n-see targets and at 9x, I can't see my hits quite as clearly as I would like and I don't want to deal with a spotting scope. As for Nikon, you can't beat the quality for the price.
 
Last edited:
Went ahead and ordered the Nikon. I think that's a pretty good deal and the reviews on the scope couldn't be better.

Also, updating my list with a ** for items I've purchased on my list.
 
I have a Laserlyte K15. It's a bit pricey but I don't think it is any brighter than cheaper ones. Belt_fed has a Viridian (even more pricey) it is brighter than the K15 when we compared the two side by side during the middle of the day bright sunshine.

We tested a bunch of lasers for use on our tac weapons, among these were the Laserlyte and AimShot for the rifles. The AimShot 8100 series out did the laserlyte for price, brightness, dot size, and range visibility. I know some people don't like the AimShot product, especially its "four point alignment system", but its a decent and reliable laser for its class in both the red and green models of the LS8100 series.

The aimshot is easy to sight in once you get the hang of it and do it properly. Loosen all four set screws - SLIGHTLY - at first - about 1/8 turn, thats a mistake a lot of people make as they loosen them up too much to begin with. Then simply adjust left/right opposing screws for windage, and up/down opposing screws for elevation, as needed loosening and tightening opposites as adjustments are made. During adjustment you make small turns for adjustment, no more then 1/4 turn each time. Then a bit of loctite, and always finish final adjustment of a screw in a clockwise direction. As you adjust you do it until it just "snugs" then loosen the opposing side if more is needed and turn to "snug" again. One clue is, if the laser goes off during adjustment then you have the screws too loose as part of the power for the laser is through the case and its contacts with the screws. We subject them to 10 drops of 100 feet on to concrete, taken them off the rifles and put them back on (same spot), vibrated them, immersed them, banged on them, beat them on door ways and other objects, put 5000 rounds down range with them. Still worked and held zero. Once you get the adjustments done and the screws set (loctite) they simply stay.

The thing about a green laser being visible at a certain distance like 100 yards, you need to be a little careful about that when choosing. Is the dot visible by the shooter at the distance or is the dot visible at the target at distance? Both can be advertised as "visible at..." what ever the distance, legally. There is another thing to pay attention to also, read the specs carefully, if they start mentioning distances like 10 - 30 yards visible then what you really have is either a pistol laser or a CQB laser, if you have a rifle and want a long distance laser then those will not do you any good really beyond say about 40 yards because the dot size is going to start getting bigger beyond that and may be too big for precision work and may be too dim in daylight for any real good beyond those distances. Don't get hung up on green lasers either just because its green, for example, the AimShot LS 8100 red laser 1/2 inch dot is more visible and brighter in daylight then some of the more expensive green lasers in daylight. All green lasers are not equal even with the same power output rating.

Daylight tests: The AimShot dot was brighter then the LaserLyte at 100 yards, and was more distinguishable and usable for precison engagement.

Durability: The laserlytes broke on the first drop from 100 feet, all three of the ones tested, we got one more and abused it too but not dropping it this time, and it lost zero enough to where we were no longer on a man-sized target at 100 yards. The AimShot worked after each drop and round of abuse and held its zero and never stopped working thru all the tests.

Battery life: The laserlyte brightness got weaker as time on increased until the battery was dead. The AimShot held its brightness until about 30 minutes before the battery died at which time you could tell it was weaker but beside the laserlyte it was still a whole lot brighter and still usable where the laserlyte wasn't. Of course when the battery was dead on both it was dead.

Zero, visibility, and dot size tests were before abusing them, then tested again after for the aimshot but the laserlytes failed the drop test. Both the laserlyte and AimShot were visible with the naked eye at 50 to 70 yard range, the AimShot was brighter and the dot smaller and better for more precision engagement work.

Overall, the winner in the end for us was the AimShot due to the pricing and the dot size, plus it was pretty tough and took all the **** we threw at it. They did not look too pretty after we finished with them but they still worked. Although, one of them revealed a cracked lens a little later on when dissambled and examined. The AimShot uses a glass lens. The laserlyte is just too over priced for what you get, i'm not too happy about the way the laser is encased either nor the adjustment system as we found it just plain fickle for adjustment.

Yes, we tested others of like the BeamShot. The beamshot, well, it was ugly and the first one out of the package stopped working as soon as it was mounted, it leaked in the immersion, and the general abuse testing (banging on door ways, etc...those things that happen in tactical use) did it in too early, although one of them did keep working and held zero fine but the switch failed on it.

We mount two lasers on the M4's, a visible Aimshot LS8100 green and a modified AimShot LS8100 green laser modified for IR for night vision use.
 
Last edited:
We tested a bunch of lasers for use on our tac weapons, among these were the Laserlyte and AimShot for the rifles. The AimShot 8100 series out did the laserlyte for price, brightness, dot size, and range visibility. I know some people don't like the AimShot product, especially its "four point alignment system", but its a decent and reliable laser for its class in both the red and green models of the LS8100 series.

The aimshot is easy to sight in once you get the hang of it and do it properly. Loosen all four set screws - SLIGHTLY - at first - about 1/8 turn, thats a mistake a lot of people make as they loosen them up too much to begin with. Then simply adjust left/right opposing screws for windage, and up/down opposing screws for elevation, as needed loosening and tightening opposites as adjustments are made. During adjustment you make small turns for adjustment, no more then 1/4 turn each time. Then a bit of loctite, and always finish final adjustment of a screw in a clockwise direction. As you adjust you do it until it just "snugs" then loosen the opposing side if more is needed and turn to "snag" again. One clue is, if the laser goes off during adjustment then you have the screws too loose as part of the power for the laser is through the case and its contacts with the screws. We subject them to 10 drops of 100 feet on to concrete, taken them off the rifles and put them back on (same spot), vibrated them, immersed them, banged on them, beat them on door ways and other objects, put 5000 rounds down range with them. Still worked and held zero. Once you get the adjustments done and the screws set (loctite) they simply stay.

The thing about a green laser being visible at a certain distance like 100 yards, you need to be a little careful about that when choosing. Is the dot visible by the shooter at the distance or is the dot visible at the target at distance? Both can be advertised as "visible at..." what ever the distance, legally. There is another thing to pay attention to also, read the specs carefully, if they start mentioning distances like 10 - 30 yards visible then what you really have is either a pistol laser or a CQB laser, if you have a rifle and want a long distance laser then those will not do you any good really beyond say about 40 yards because the dot size is going to start getting bigger beyond that and may be too big for precision work and may be too dim in daylight for any real good beyond those distances. Don't get hung up on green lasers either just because its green, for example, the AimShot LS 8100 red laser 1/2 inch dot is more visible and brighter in daylight then some of the more expensive green lasers in daylight. All green lasers are not equal even with the same power output rating.

Daylight tests: The AimShot dot was brighter then the LaserLyte at 100 yards, and was more distinguishable and usable for precison engagement.

Durability: The laserlytes broke on the first drop from 100 feet, all three of the ones tested, we got one more and abused it too but not dropping it this time, and it lost zero enough to where we were no longer on a man-sized target at 100 yards. The AimShot worked after each drop and round of abuse and held its zero and never stopped working thru all the tests.

Battery life: The laserlyte brightness got weaker as time on increased until the battery was dead. The AimShot held its brightness until about 30 minutes before the battery died at which time you could tell it was weaker but beside the laserlyte it was still a whole lot brighter and still usable where the laserlyte wasn't. Of course when the battery was dead on both it was dead.

Zero, visibility, and dot size tests were before abusing them, then tested again after for the aimshot but the laserlytes failed the drop test. Both the laserlyte and AimShot were visible with the naked eye at 50 to 70 yard range, the AimShot was brighter and the dot smaller and better for more precision engagement work.

Overall, the winner in the end for us was the AimShot due to the pricing and the dot size, plus it was pretty tough and took all the **** we threw at it. They did not look too pretty after we finished with them but they still worked. Although, one of them revealed a cracked lens a little later on when dissambled and examined. The AimShot uses a glass lens. The laserlyte is just too over priced for what you get, i'm not too happy about the way the laser is encased either nor the adjustment system as we found it just plain fickle for adjustment.

Yes, we tested others of like the BeamShot. The beamshot, well, it was ugly and the first one out of the package stopped working as soon as it was mounted, it leaked in the immersion, and the general abuse testing (banging on door ways, etc...those things that happen in tactical use) did it in too early, although one of them did keep working and held zero fine but the switch failed on it.

We mount two lasers on the M4's, a visible Aimshot LS8100 green and a modified AimShot LS8100 green laser modified for IR for night vision use.

This is a great write-up. Thank you for taking the time to inform us with all your test. How do you have the laser mounted to your rifle, as far as the switch or pressure switch is concerned? I'm greatly interested in trying to figure out the best way to mount one.
 
Don't mean to double post to myself here or anything, but so far the best way I've found or seem to 'think' is the best way, is to mount the laser and run the wire under some rail covers, notch a hole in the rail cover for the wire to come out and put the pressure switch on the foregrip.

Any other ideas you guys have?
 
This is a great write-up. Thank you for taking the time to inform us with all your test. How do you have the laser mounted to your rifle, as far as the switch or pressure switch is concerned? I'm greatly interested in trying to figure out the best way to mount one.

Don't mean to double post to myself here or anything, but so far the best way I've found or seem to 'think' is the best way, is to mount the laser and run the wire under some rail covers, notch a hole in the rail cover for the wire to come out and put the pressure switch on the foregrip.

Any other ideas you guys have?

Might give you some ideas > http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-wesson-m-p-15-22/179836-where-do-you-guys-mount-your-pressure-switches-flashlight-laser.html#post135845989
 
Last edited:
What's the scoop on this site? There are a lot of cheap knockoffs there. Is it like ebay where you need to be mindful of the seller's track record? A lot of cheap stuff is from sellers with little or no feedback.

Is there any recourse thru PayPal if your stuff never shows up?

PayPal is a decent host and has generally shown to stand behind buyers, this site included. It is a bit like ebay, but with all China made product all shipping from China. I have seen it in a few other markets where there are a few outlets that ship straight from China at a small fraction of the cost found in the states.

The beauty here is that Magpul admits that they have two lines, an American made line and a China made line. So these aren't knock-offs in the sense someone copied the line. These are made to the specs Magpul sends the Chinese manufacturers. So typically the product is as labeled.

That site is a bit like ebay in that it is a host site for multiple retailers to sell items. They are focused a bit more on bulk sales rather than individual items like ebay. You do have to watch who you buy from, though many retailers have moderate to a lot of feedback. The feedback system is a little weird. One area shows just the feedback for the item being sold. Another area shows all transactions. Some items only have 4-5 people worth of feedback, but if you click the correct area they show the entire history of all items sold for that retailer, which is often in the hundreds. In the end, it's $20. If it turns out to be a mistake, I can live with it. As has been said, if you tell Paypal the deal they typically will side with a seller in any even moderately questionable situation, stateside or foreign.

I just placed an order. I'll let you know how it turns out in a couple weeks when it should arrive.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top