My plans with some questions, need some advice.

Midway has a Nikon Prostaff 4x12-40mm on sale right now. You guys think that the 4x12 is a bit to powerful for the 15-22?

I still like the primary arms, but the sale on the Nikon has got me thinking.... again.
 
Midway has a Nikon Prostaff 4x12-40mm on sale right now. You guys think that the 4x12 is a bit to powerful for the 15-22?

I still like the primary arms, but the sale on the Nikon has got me thinking.... again.


I have a Prostaff 3x9 on my 15-22 and wish I had a 4x12. At 100yds, I wish I could see the target details a little better. I like shoot-n-see targets and at 9x, I can't see my hits quite as clearly as I would like and I don't want to deal with a spotting scope. As for Nikon, you can't beat the quality for the price.
 
Last edited:
Went ahead and ordered the Nikon. I think that's a pretty good deal and the reviews on the scope couldn't be better.

Also, updating my list with a ** for items I've purchased on my list.
 
I have a Laserlyte K15. It's a bit pricey but I don't think it is any brighter than cheaper ones. Belt_fed has a Viridian (even more pricey) it is brighter than the K15 when we compared the two side by side during the middle of the day bright sunshine.

We tested a bunch of lasers for use on our tac weapons, among these were the Laserlyte and AimShot for the rifles. The AimShot 8100 series out did the laserlyte for price, brightness, dot size, and range visibility. I know some people don't like the AimShot product, especially its "four point alignment system", but its a decent and reliable laser for its class in both the red and green models of the LS8100 series.

The aimshot is easy to sight in once you get the hang of it and do it properly. Loosen all four set screws - SLIGHTLY - at first - about 1/8 turn, thats a mistake a lot of people make as they loosen them up too much to begin with. Then simply adjust left/right opposing screws for windage, and up/down opposing screws for elevation, as needed loosening and tightening opposites as adjustments are made. During adjustment you make small turns for adjustment, no more then 1/4 turn each time. Then a bit of loctite, and always finish final adjustment of a screw in a clockwise direction. As you adjust you do it until it just "snugs" then loosen the opposing side if more is needed and turn to "snug" again. One clue is, if the laser goes off during adjustment then you have the screws too loose as part of the power for the laser is through the case and its contacts with the screws. We subject them to 10 drops of 100 feet on to concrete, taken them off the rifles and put them back on (same spot), vibrated them, immersed them, banged on them, beat them on door ways and other objects, put 5000 rounds down range with them. Still worked and held zero. Once you get the adjustments done and the screws set (loctite) they simply stay.

The thing about a green laser being visible at a certain distance like 100 yards, you need to be a little careful about that when choosing. Is the dot visible by the shooter at the distance or is the dot visible at the target at distance? Both can be advertised as "visible at..." what ever the distance, legally. There is another thing to pay attention to also, read the specs carefully, if they start mentioning distances like 10 - 30 yards visible then what you really have is either a pistol laser or a CQB laser, if you have a rifle and want a long distance laser then those will not do you any good really beyond say about 40 yards because the dot size is going to start getting bigger beyond that and may be too big for precision work and may be too dim in daylight for any real good beyond those distances. Don't get hung up on green lasers either just because its green, for example, the AimShot LS 8100 red laser 1/2 inch dot is more visible and brighter in daylight then some of the more expensive green lasers in daylight. All green lasers are not equal even with the same power output rating.

Daylight tests: The AimShot dot was brighter then the LaserLyte at 100 yards, and was more distinguishable and usable for precison engagement.

Durability: The laserlytes broke on the first drop from 100 feet, all three of the ones tested, we got one more and abused it too but not dropping it this time, and it lost zero enough to where we were no longer on a man-sized target at 100 yards. The AimShot worked after each drop and round of abuse and held its zero and never stopped working thru all the tests.

Battery life: The laserlyte brightness got weaker as time on increased until the battery was dead. The AimShot held its brightness until about 30 minutes before the battery died at which time you could tell it was weaker but beside the laserlyte it was still a whole lot brighter and still usable where the laserlyte wasn't. Of course when the battery was dead on both it was dead.

Zero, visibility, and dot size tests were before abusing them, then tested again after for the aimshot but the laserlytes failed the drop test. Both the laserlyte and AimShot were visible with the naked eye at 50 to 70 yard range, the AimShot was brighter and the dot smaller and better for more precision engagement work.

Overall, the winner in the end for us was the AimShot due to the pricing and the dot size, plus it was pretty tough and took all the **** we threw at it. They did not look too pretty after we finished with them but they still worked. Although, one of them revealed a cracked lens a little later on when dissambled and examined. The AimShot uses a glass lens. The laserlyte is just too over priced for what you get, i'm not too happy about the way the laser is encased either nor the adjustment system as we found it just plain fickle for adjustment.

Yes, we tested others of like the BeamShot. The beamshot, well, it was ugly and the first one out of the package stopped working as soon as it was mounted, it leaked in the immersion, and the general abuse testing (banging on door ways, etc...those things that happen in tactical use) did it in too early, although one of them did keep working and held zero fine but the switch failed on it.

We mount two lasers on the M4's, a visible Aimshot LS8100 green and a modified AimShot LS8100 green laser modified for IR for night vision use.
 
Last edited:
We tested a bunch of lasers for use on our tac weapons, among these were the Laserlyte and AimShot for the rifles. The AimShot 8100 series out did the laserlyte for price, brightness, dot size, and range visibility. I know some people don't like the AimShot product, especially its "four point alignment system", but its a decent and reliable laser for its class in both the red and green models of the LS8100 series.

The aimshot is easy to sight in once you get the hang of it and do it properly. Loosen all four set screws - SLIGHTLY - at first - about 1/8 turn, thats a mistake a lot of people make as they loosen them up too much to begin with. Then simply adjust left/right opposing screws for windage, and up/down opposing screws for elevation, as needed loosening and tightening opposites as adjustments are made. During adjustment you make small turns for adjustment, no more then 1/4 turn each time. Then a bit of loctite, and always finish final adjustment of a screw in a clockwise direction. As you adjust you do it until it just "snugs" then loosen the opposing side if more is needed and turn to "snag" again. One clue is, if the laser goes off during adjustment then you have the screws too loose as part of the power for the laser is through the case and its contacts with the screws. We subject them to 10 drops of 100 feet on to concrete, taken them off the rifles and put them back on (same spot), vibrated them, immersed them, banged on them, beat them on door ways and other objects, put 5000 rounds down range with them. Still worked and held zero. Once you get the adjustments done and the screws set (loctite) they simply stay.

The thing about a green laser being visible at a certain distance like 100 yards, you need to be a little careful about that when choosing. Is the dot visible by the shooter at the distance or is the dot visible at the target at distance? Both can be advertised as "visible at..." what ever the distance, legally. There is another thing to pay attention to also, read the specs carefully, if they start mentioning distances like 10 - 30 yards visible then what you really have is either a pistol laser or a CQB laser, if you have a rifle and want a long distance laser then those will not do you any good really beyond say about 40 yards because the dot size is going to start getting bigger beyond that and may be too big for precision work and may be too dim in daylight for any real good beyond those distances. Don't get hung up on green lasers either just because its green, for example, the AimShot LS 8100 red laser 1/2 inch dot is more visible and brighter in daylight then some of the more expensive green lasers in daylight. All green lasers are not equal even with the same power output rating.

Daylight tests: The AimShot dot was brighter then the LaserLyte at 100 yards, and was more distinguishable and usable for precison engagement.

Durability: The laserlytes broke on the first drop from 100 feet, all three of the ones tested, we got one more and abused it too but not dropping it this time, and it lost zero enough to where we were no longer on a man-sized target at 100 yards. The AimShot worked after each drop and round of abuse and held its zero and never stopped working thru all the tests.

Battery life: The laserlyte brightness got weaker as time on increased until the battery was dead. The AimShot held its brightness until about 30 minutes before the battery died at which time you could tell it was weaker but beside the laserlyte it was still a whole lot brighter and still usable where the laserlyte wasn't. Of course when the battery was dead on both it was dead.

Zero, visibility, and dot size tests were before abusing them, then tested again after for the aimshot but the laserlytes failed the drop test. Both the laserlyte and AimShot were visible with the naked eye at 50 to 70 yard range, the AimShot was brighter and the dot smaller and better for more precision engagement work.

Overall, the winner in the end for us was the AimShot due to the pricing and the dot size, plus it was pretty tough and took all the **** we threw at it. They did not look too pretty after we finished with them but they still worked. Although, one of them revealed a cracked lens a little later on when dissambled and examined. The AimShot uses a glass lens. The laserlyte is just too over priced for what you get, i'm not too happy about the way the laser is encased either nor the adjustment system as we found it just plain fickle for adjustment.

Yes, we tested others of like the BeamShot. The beamshot, well, it was ugly and the first one out of the package stopped working as soon as it was mounted, it leaked in the immersion, and the general abuse testing (banging on door ways, etc...those things that happen in tactical use) did it in too early, although one of them did keep working and held zero fine but the switch failed on it.

We mount two lasers on the M4's, a visible Aimshot LS8100 green and a modified AimShot LS8100 green laser modified for IR for night vision use.

This is a great write-up. Thank you for taking the time to inform us with all your test. How do you have the laser mounted to your rifle, as far as the switch or pressure switch is concerned? I'm greatly interested in trying to figure out the best way to mount one.
 
Don't mean to double post to myself here or anything, but so far the best way I've found or seem to 'think' is the best way, is to mount the laser and run the wire under some rail covers, notch a hole in the rail cover for the wire to come out and put the pressure switch on the foregrip.

Any other ideas you guys have?
 
This is a great write-up. Thank you for taking the time to inform us with all your test. How do you have the laser mounted to your rifle, as far as the switch or pressure switch is concerned? I'm greatly interested in trying to figure out the best way to mount one.

Don't mean to double post to myself here or anything, but so far the best way I've found or seem to 'think' is the best way, is to mount the laser and run the wire under some rail covers, notch a hole in the rail cover for the wire to come out and put the pressure switch on the foregrip.

Any other ideas you guys have?

Might give you some ideas > http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-wesson-m-p-15-22/179836-where-do-you-guys-mount-your-pressure-switches-flashlight-laser.html#post135845989
 
Last edited:
What's the scoop on this site? There are a lot of cheap knockoffs there. Is it like ebay where you need to be mindful of the seller's track record? A lot of cheap stuff is from sellers with little or no feedback.

Is there any recourse thru PayPal if your stuff never shows up?

PayPal is a decent host and has generally shown to stand behind buyers, this site included. It is a bit like ebay, but with all China made product all shipping from China. I have seen it in a few other markets where there are a few outlets that ship straight from China at a small fraction of the cost found in the states.

The beauty here is that Magpul admits that they have two lines, an American made line and a China made line. So these aren't knock-offs in the sense someone copied the line. These are made to the specs Magpul sends the Chinese manufacturers. So typically the product is as labeled.

That site is a bit like ebay in that it is a host site for multiple retailers to sell items. They are focused a bit more on bulk sales rather than individual items like ebay. You do have to watch who you buy from, though many retailers have moderate to a lot of feedback. The feedback system is a little weird. One area shows just the feedback for the item being sold. Another area shows all transactions. Some items only have 4-5 people worth of feedback, but if you click the correct area they show the entire history of all items sold for that retailer, which is often in the hundreds. In the end, it's $20. If it turns out to be a mistake, I can live with it. As has been said, if you tell Paypal the deal they typically will side with a seller in any even moderately questionable situation, stateside or foreign.

I just placed an order. I'll let you know how it turns out in a couple weeks when it should arrive.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top