MY TAKE ON THE EVER SO POPULAR REN-WAX

I use Ren Wax on dagger, swords, and firearms used in displays, but have used regular auto wax on working guns. I prefer oil, but on a firearm that may be carried against my clothing, I've used auto wax with good results. I got that tip from a S&W employee probably 20 to 25 years ago. Some auto waxes have polishing compound in them, so you'll want to watch what you buy though.
 
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FWIW: Last year this subject of microcrystaline wax was brought up on this forum. Someone mentioned that an American company based in Ohio made a product just like Ren Wax. The company is called E.J. Wheaton Co., and I was able to buy three of their products: their wax, gun cleaner/lubricating oil and furniture polish. I have no relation to this company other than being a very satisfied customer.
 
I have mentioned it before, but it bears repeating. I first found out about it in the 80s when I was getting my photography degree. It prevents getting fingerprints on glossy photographic paper, so think of blued steel with a barrier to fingerprint acids and salts.

And it would seal them from sulfur compounds in the air from attacking any un-fixed silver in the emulsion, preventing the atmospheric sulphur from converting it to silver sulfide, turning the blacks to dingy silverish-brown. Think of blued steel being sealed from atmospheric pollutants and moisture..
 
I use it. I like it. I also use Johnson's and sometimes just oil and rag. The Ren wax is hands down the best at making things pretty. No question. I think the Johnson's does as good a job at protection. Might be better at protection than the oil and rag, but I don't know. I've never had a problem with any of them if properly applied. Here's a nickel. You owe me three cents.
 
I have a milk crate full of different stuff I use on different guns, all are different some sit some get shot some are pristine some are not.
I have just about everything listed and also I use a product called Gibbs. I love it and it's mainly for shooters it lubes and protects. I use RenWax and Johnson's on some of my commemoratives I have also used some car wax/polishes on some older guns that get oxidation on them over the years.
I also have a spray silicone that works well, I think that liquid wrench (blue can) does a good job on covering scratches on a rougher looking shooter in blue. Rig is an excellent product that I use on some that are put up for long time storage but may not be the best sometimes for one that is being used as it attracts dirt and powder.
I always like to take a gun that looks good when it's oiled up and take 3M polish that I have had for 20 years and a blue shop paper towel and polish it up and show friends how much brown (old oil, oxidation and years of dirt) that comes off of them and then they glow.
Once you puddle with Smiths and see the many different finishes they applied on them over the years you kind of get an understanding on what will work and get the results you're looking for... well some people do.
And to each his own as long as you're happy I say go with it.
It kind of like the motor oil argument every one usually has one they favor.
 
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With all this being said, there is definitely a place for wax vs oil on the externals of a firearm. Oil film on the outside has a tendency to collect dust in some environments and really doesn't stay on well with a lot of handling in hunting situations. There are a number of professional hunters that I have hunted and associated with that prefer some type of wax on their working guns exterior. It seems to work well for me too. I don't particularly like stainless guns so when I hunt in places like Alaska, where I get rained on daily, I use Johnson paste wax on the exterior of my rifles. It works great and stays with the gun through a lot of handling. Blued guns don't finger print and it will seal a wooden stock that may have some finish flaws that would allow moisture to get in. I hear that some use various types of automotive wax but the Johnson Paste wax seems to do a good job. I've had the same can for about a 100 years and it's the same stuff I use as release agent when I glass bed a rifle stock. That same can has probably done about a million of them. (I'm only exaggerating a little)
 
I have a crate of every cleaner, wax, solvent, polish or whatever you want because I've taken vintage cars to car shows for 25 years. I've tried every miracle product from most vendors at the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. Not to be outdone, I've collected Hoppe's, REM oil, CLP, Wilson Combat products and a myriad of others for cleaning my guns. What I consistently use to clean and degrease the outside of the guns is MPRO7. Apply, wait a few minutes, wipe of oil and powder. It is non-petroleum so you can travel on a plane with it. Then I gently apply RenWax with my finger and wipe it off with an old t-shirt or clean lint free cotton rag. If RenWax is good enough for Rubiranch and Doc44, it's good enough for me.
 
I've used it, along with some paste car wax on revolvers.......with good results. I wore a pair of not broke in Redwings the other day, and when I got home put some Renwax on them, and was really surprised at the shine after buffing........
 
Just so happens I was wondering about preservation of the grips on my Models 19, 29, and 629 wheel guns. Is this what I need or is there another option for just the grips? I oil the weapons every time I use them. Works for me.
 

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