My TRR8 barrel came loose from dry firing with a light and heavy optic on it...

[karateHottie93]

So it's been fine with just the X300U on it. The things been on there ever since I rescued it from a pawn shop. It's had plenty of rounds through it without an issue. I recently decided to mount a cheap Sightmark R Spec I had laying around on it...just cause. I mean it holds zero well and I like it's reticle options. Plus it has a huge window so it works pretty good from a distance. I haven't actually shot it yet with the optic. I've dry fired it a few times with it though...just trying to get used to having it on there. I was going to take it to the range while off work today but I noticed the barrel shroud was incredibly loose. Something kept rattling around and I just assumed it was the optic or light. Turns out it was the barrel shroud. It was so loose that just tightening the end with my fingers what little bit I could actually stopped the rattling. I immediately went online and ordered the wrench. I know this is a common issue but I didn't realize that just dry firing with a heavy optic could cause it to break loose. Oh and don't ask about the silver rail lol...long long story. I explained it in my first thread here. I'm waiting on a new one from S&W that I ordered over a week ago. It just got shipped out due to weather delays.

I'm really hoping this thing can hold up to this big *** optic though. It looks dumb as hell on there but I love these Sightmark Ulta Shots more than pretty much anything else on the market that's not $500+.

 

[John Patrick]

I’d bet the dry firing was just the last straw that made the issue obvious.

 

[karateHottie93]

It may have been. The thing went through a lot. I got it with completely stripped rail screws in, overtightened and with red Loctite. I had to cut, grind, and engrave new heads into them to get any torque, plus apply heat, and soak in penetrating oil before they broke loose. I took it out the next day though and put 6 boxes of ammo through it. 4 of them were magnums. I checked the shroud constantly because I knew it was a common issue. It never moved a drop though. It was as tight as can be and the little grooves where you tighten it were in the same spot. I quit worrying about things after it stood up to that. Then I put the optic on and did a bit of dry firing here and there while watching TV and whatnot. Next thing I know, it's wobbly as all hell.

I'm not insinuating that it's poorly made. I've said time and time again that I believe S&W revolvers to be the most well made on the mainstream market. I've had similar issues with newer model Colts having loose side plate screws. I'm just glad it came up while dry firing and not shooting. I'm also surprised that it happened while dry firing, and not while previously shooting.

 

[Lou_the_welder]

Mine loosened with a 6 oz. Optic every 1600 rounds. It did it twice.

I posted here on the forum before, that a heavy optic on the top of the shroud with the recoil of the gun, will loosen the nut. But I've never heard of dry firing doing this too.

 

[karateHottie93]

Mine loosened with a 6 oz. Optic every 1600 rounds. It did it twice.

I posted here on the forum before, that a heavy optic on the top of the shroud with the recoil of the gun, will loosen the nut. But I've never heard of dry firing doing this too.

Yeah...I tried it again and kinda freaked out for a minute. Just one dry fire did it this time but I expected it too since it was just finger tight, and that's what little bit I could get on it. What freaked me out was that I noticed the entire barrel was loose.

This should have been common sense but I didn't realize these were like the Dan Wesson barrels. I thought they were permanently set and the shroud was the only part that moved. It scared the hell out of me. Then I took a deep breath and realized that this is like the Dan Wesson barrels. I used to have a 44 DW so I'm kinda used to this. Honestly I like the firearm more now. Hopefully someday I can find a blown up 327 pug model for next to nothing and convert this one for carry. I'm not even sure it that would be possible but they look to use the same barrel design.

Like the other guy said though...dry firing was likely just the last straw. I'm sure the vibrations from the grinding those rail screws didn't help. Think something easily removable like blue Loctite would help once my wrench comes?

 

[Lou_the_welder]

Yeah...I tried it again and kinda freaked out for a minute. Just one dry fire did it this time but I expected it too since it was just finger tight, and that's what little bit I could get on it. What freaked me out was that I noticed the entire barrel was loose.



This should have been common sense but I didn't realize these were like the Dan Wesson barrels. I thought they were permanently set and the shroud was the only part that moved. It scared the hell out of me. Then I took a deep breath and realized that this is like the Dan Wesson barrels. I used to have a 44 DW so I'm kinda used to this. Honestly I like the firearm more now. Hopefully someday I can find a blown up 327 pug model for next to nothing and convert this one for carry. I'm not even sure it that would be possible but they look to use the same barrel design.



Like the other guy said though...dry firing was likely just the last straw. I'm sure the vibrations from the grinding those rail screws didn't help. Think something easily removable like blue Loctite would help once my wrench comes?

I wouldn't use loctite. The factory doesn't use loctite on it either.

All you need is the tool to tighten the nut. Just the trick is, to hold the barrel and tighten it, and not overtighten it, and not leave the barrel gap wide when you do so. Tightening the nut will pull the barrel out and make the b/c gap wider. Just be aware of that.

Here are some pics of mine when I took it apart.

This is why I have moved the optic further back, have better eye relief, and minimize the chance of loosening the barrel with my heavy magnum loads.

It hasn't loosened anymore.

 

[karateHottie93]

I appreciate that. I'll stay away from the Loctite. Not really sure I'd wanna use it on such fine threads anyways now that I think about it. I've been playing around with it and seeing just how close I can actually get the forcing cone to the cylinder before it starts dragging. Now I know it will give a little regardless so that's good. May just pick up one of the little gages I used to use on the DW.

I also need to go ahead and buy one of those mounts. At this point the barrel already has some scuffing from the rail. I'm also considering just keep it on once I get the replacement rail and going with a SeeAll Open Sight. My old manager had one and I tried it on a shotgun. It was great. I see the have a models with crosshairs instead of chevrons for more accuracy...may just try that.

I need a smaller flashlight too. I'd take it off completely but the bottom rail is pretty scuffed from this Surefire that's been mounted on it since the dawn of time.

 

[BC38]

Even though the factory doesn't use it, I think I'd still use blue (the weakest) Loctite on that barrel. The blue stuff is specifically designed for parts that get disassembled frequently. But it should still keep the barrel from loosening up on you.
Those 2-piece barrels look so WEIRD with the shroud off. Looks like a piece of 1/2" water pipe screwed into the frame. Not sure if I could ever get used to that.

 

[Alk8944]

The barrel nuts on all models having two-piece barrels have been coming loose as long as S&W has been using this design, so dry-fire may have contributed to the condition but is not likely to have caused it. If you re fortunate enough to obtain the tool to tighten the nut there is no reason to not use Loc-Tite to assure its staying tight, but I would avoid using the green "Sleeve Mount".

 

[Nick B]

Where does one get the tool ?

 

[Lou_the_welder]

Where does one get the tool ?

EWK Arms sells the tool.

 

[Protocall_Design]

I would use purple #222 (Light duty) or blue #242 (Medium duty) only. No red or green of any kind. With the purple or blue, you can unscrew the parts with slight force and no heat. Most likely they will stay in place as long as you want with one of these Loctites. Put enough on to cover the threads, and wipe off any excess after assembly.

 

[upcountry]

Why didn't this happen with Dan Wessons?

 

[Nick B]

I imagine that with the tool you could check for tightness every few hundred rounds .

 

[IraIII]

I think the threads on the Dan Wessons were right hand threads on both ends, I think the threads on the S&W are right hand into the frame and left hand on end of barrel. The Dan Wessons used a feeler gauge and the both ends tightened when you turned the wrench clockwise. The right and left hand threads result innthe S&W loosening the frame end when you tightened the nut. I seem to remember a plug used to hold the barrel which went into the bore of the barrel to hold the barrel when tightening the nut, but I could be all wet as I’m not the sharpest knife in the drawer. I was incorrect the tool that engages the rifling is for the flanged barrels.

 

[karateHottie93]

I definitely appreciate all the advice. I guess I'll try it without the Loctite first and see how it does. Kinda makes me paranoid about the thing coming apart while shooting.

 

[ruggyh]

You heated the shroud- everything connected to shroud would of been effected by the expansion and contraction including the barrel tension nut!!!

Same reason the nut loosen over time with fired guns.