My weekend stock refinishing project...

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This last weekend, I decided to tackle a stock refinishing project. Some time ago, I acquired a Winchester Model 75 target rifle that had a few defects. One was that some idiot had electric-penciled his SSN right under the serial number. After some work with fine sandpaper and cold blue, I managed to remove that satisfactorily. The other defect was a stock that had some nicks and gouges, and a really awful bletch-yellow color. I know it wasn't walnut, but maybe birch - I'm not enough of a wood-worker to tell you. At any rate here's a picture of it:

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Now my experience with stock refinishing has been mostly limited to military guns (with boiled linseed oil), and a few sporting guns with Linspeed. However, I thought I'd tackle this one with walnut stain and Tung oil. The first step was stripping the old finish and sanding out the nicks and gouges:

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The next step was "whiskering" the stock. It's an old technique. Basically, it involves wetting the bare wood with wet cloth, and then heating it over a stove or other heat source. What this does is raise wood "whiskers" on the stock, which are then sanded off. This process is repeated until the stock is ultra-smooth. As you can see, I left the buttplate on while sanding, to protect the close fit of the wood and metal.

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Next, the stock was stained with a darker stain. I'm afraid the staining was not uniform, due to the strange wood I was working with, but I decided to go ahead and see what the effect would be. Here is the stain application:

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Next, the Tung oil was applied, allowed to dry for 24 hours, and then smoothed down with fine steel wool. The steel wool fibers were then wiped from the wood, and another coat of Tung oil was applied. This continued for four applications.

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Here's the final result. While I like the effect to some degree, I would have been happier with a more even color. I'm not sure it could have been achieved with this wood. Even with the original Winchester finish, the appearance was somewhat blotchy. At any rate, I finished up with a coat of Renaissance Wax to protect the final finish. I do like it a great deal more than the original bletch yellow color! At some point in the future, I may revert to Linspeed - we'll see. Maybe some of you more skilled wood-workers could offer some suggestions.

John

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John a tip from an expert woodworker (not me) rather than stain, use a wood dye. It penetrates and you can adjust the color as light or dark as you want. It is water based.

Stain is nothing but watered down paint. Even using the prestain snake oil does nothing.

I used some dye on my last project and turned a junk 10/22 beech stock into something that really looks like walnut.

For a top coat. Tru Oil is one of the best

http://www.woodcraft.com/category/2000760/homestead-transfast-dye-powders.aspx
 
Not too awful bad for a first attempt. I think the problems you had with staining evenly was to due with the wood prep. You rushed it through in a weekend, the last "down to bare wood" stock I refinished took 2 weeks worth of fine hand sanding. Starting with 200 grit after the old finish was stripped off, and then progressing to 400 grit wiskering it, then moving on to 600 grit. The stock was from a 1950s 40X and saturated in old black bore cleaner so I had to soak it in acetone for a few days to leech out all the dirty old oils. Once it was smooth as a baby's behind layed down a few layers red and brown alcohol based stains. Alcohol penetrates more evenly, dries quickly, and does not raise the grain. Then it took two more weeks of laying down the oil, granted I went with 30 coats of hand rubbed oil for a deep high gloss finish with a light buffing with 0000 steel wool every 4 to 5 layers. Once I was satisfied a little polish with some fine abrasive powder and a coat of wax.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/lounge/86884-refinishing-40x-stock-project-completed.html

This photo clearly shows the roughness of the area in the front of the pistol grip, the top of the wrist and the bottom of the stock. The coarse fibers of the wood will soak up more color than the smooth sections leading to the blotchy look.
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There are many pre-stain wood conditioners that will even out stain absorption particularly on end grain. I still think it looks good, I finished my 521T in almost the same way finishing with Tung Oil but I must have put on 20 coats and it looks the same as yours.
 
I apply tung oil using a white 3m pad (equivalent to 0000 steel wool without the steel fibers). This continues to polish the wood with each application. I then polish with an non oiled pad and wipe off with a cloth before applying the next coat. I usually do this every 24 hours for a week or more.

This a Garand that I redid the finish on. This is a CMP Stock on a Special Grade Garand. Click the image to get a larger image.
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If that's a factory stock, it's American walnut. It can be very light colored especially when stripped and when you are going thru the whiskering phase. Almost yellow in color sometimes.
I don't do the whisker thing at all. Instead I wet sand the already stained wood to fill the pores. I mix a bit of the stain in with the thinned finish I use in the wet sanding process to keep the surface an even color.
Lots of different ways to finish a piece of wood. As long as you get the result you desire and are satisfied with it,,then it's the right one for you.

The blotchy look can be from embedded oil, old finish and dirt still in the wood.
Here it looks like it's just the run of the grain of the wood. End grain is poking out at those areas. They will just soak up more stain color than the other areas. Just like the end of a sawed off
board..
A coarse grit sanding will allow even more color to be absorbed there.

Sometimes you have to seal the areas so the stain doesn't penetrate as much.
Instead of using oil stain you can use alcohol (solvent based) or water based wood stain (dye actually). It's easier to control the color and if it gets too dark, you can lighten it up by wiping the area with the base solvent. Not dark enough, just keep applying and it'll soak in.
I've always had better luck with alcohol or other solvent based stains than the water based stains. But others do very well with them.

Once in a while you just get a piece of odd grained wood that needs extra work to look right.

Don't be shy about putting a thin coat of oil stain over the top of a completely dry alcohol or water based dye to enhance the color.
Sometimes done after the first finish layer is applied so the absorbsion is slowed down and equalized. You don't want to go back to the blotchy look!

Each piece of wood is different unlike a piece of metal and takes some experience to be able to see what it may need applied to get the desired result. It won't always be the same piece to piece.
Don't be in a hurry,,let the applied layers dry completely before proceding. Probably the biggest downfall in finishing is not letting the stuff dry completely before adding new layers of finish.
 
After getting a lot of education in a short period of time from the expert I mentioned above, folks will throw out all their stains, and buy dyes.:D I am reformed and now a believer.;)

Stains are fine if using them on "real" wood such as walnut but to try and make birch or beech or other plain hardwoods look like some other wood, dyes are far better.

The whole "science" of top coats is yet another whole learning process. There are so many and different results it's mind boggling. Fortunately for rifle stocks Tru oil is one of the easiest and best. This is from "the expert", not me, on another forum so I can't link it.
 
As others have said, there are oil rubs that fill the pores and even out the stain finish. Pine tends to have a very uneven look if stained dark. I used this finish on the pine woodwork in my home. Note, it'll be harder to get a dark finish, but it eliminates the very dark (end grain) areas like on the front of the pistol grip.
 
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